noteworks
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2022
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- 24523
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Make / Model
- Ford/Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hello all.
I purchased a 99 XLT that the driver had ran up on a guard rail. The frame is pushed in about 3 inches right just behind the rear frame mount for the lower control arm.
The strike also broke the knuckle where the tie rod mounts, so steering was lost on the right side.
Very hard to find the pass side knuckle for the 99 with vacuum actuated hubs. But I'll find it.
As far as parts I've either ordered or need to order,..
Torsion Bar
Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint
Radiator
Condenser
Bumper
Oil cooler
Accumulator
Knuckle
Tie Rod End
Upper Control Arm with Ball Joint
Trans Cooler
And I'm sure many other items as I get into it.
My question is around pulling the frame back out 3 inches or so.
Included are pictures of the truck itself, and some of the impacted areas.
I'm not totally against taking it to a frame shop, but I have zero idea what they would charge for the work.
I'm curious if something along the lines of a 10 ton porta power may be successful in this frame adjustment. I have no torches, so I would be attempting this with the porta power and heavy logging chains wrapped around the frame.
Thoughts on the best way to do this?
I'm not afraid to do the work, just want to work as smart as possible.
Thanks in advance for the input. We had a 93 ranger years ago, and I've never heard the end of the grief from the wife after selling it. She loved that truck, and hates driving any of the full size pickups here since. So, I've been a deal on another one when I saw this one on CL for $500 in very good condition. I figured I'd take a shot at a happy marriage again.
The truck has been sitting for about a year, and we couldn't get it to turn over with a good battery, but it was in such good shape, I took the woman's word for how well it ran. Upon getting it home, it either has a broken shift cable, or the accident disconnected it in the column, because the shifter isnt affecting the transmission. I went underneath, removed the cable, and manually shifted it into park, and it started and ran for about 10 seconds before I shut it off.
Best
I purchased a 99 XLT that the driver had ran up on a guard rail. The frame is pushed in about 3 inches right just behind the rear frame mount for the lower control arm.
The strike also broke the knuckle where the tie rod mounts, so steering was lost on the right side.
Very hard to find the pass side knuckle for the 99 with vacuum actuated hubs. But I'll find it.
As far as parts I've either ordered or need to order,..
Torsion Bar
Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint
Radiator
Condenser
Bumper
Oil cooler
Accumulator
Knuckle
Tie Rod End
Upper Control Arm with Ball Joint
Trans Cooler
And I'm sure many other items as I get into it.
My question is around pulling the frame back out 3 inches or so.
Included are pictures of the truck itself, and some of the impacted areas.
I'm not totally against taking it to a frame shop, but I have zero idea what they would charge for the work.
I'm curious if something along the lines of a 10 ton porta power may be successful in this frame adjustment. I have no torches, so I would be attempting this with the porta power and heavy logging chains wrapped around the frame.
Thoughts on the best way to do this?
I'm not afraid to do the work, just want to work as smart as possible.
Thanks in advance for the input. We had a 93 ranger years ago, and I've never heard the end of the grief from the wife after selling it. She loved that truck, and hates driving any of the full size pickups here since. So, I've been a deal on another one when I saw this one on CL for $500 in very good condition. I figured I'd take a shot at a happy marriage again.
The truck has been sitting for about a year, and we couldn't get it to turn over with a good battery, but it was in such good shape, I took the woman's word for how well it ran. Upon getting it home, it either has a broken shift cable, or the accident disconnected it in the column, because the shifter isnt affecting the transmission. I went underneath, removed the cable, and manually shifted it into park, and it started and ran for about 10 seconds before I shut it off.
Best
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