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Pulling 4.0 engine


RBereswill

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I have a 2004 4.0 4x4 automatic . I'm pulling the engine. I can't find the top bolts to the bellhousing. Anyone know how I can get to them?
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BlackBII

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I usually get to those from up top with a flex ratcheting wrench. If you reach your hand down behind the intake manifold you should be able to feel them.

You can also get to them from underneath with a bunch of wobble extensions, but that's usually more difficult.

 

Monkeyboy

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Long extension from below. Like at the shop.
 

RBereswill

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I usually get to those from up top with a flex ratcheting wrench. If you reach your hand down behind the intake manifold you should be able to feel them.

You can also get to them from underneath with a bunch of wobble extensions, but that's usually more difficult.

Thanks for the help.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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All else fails, cut hole in floor.
 

RBereswill

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All else fails, cut hole in floor.
No problem there . I just found that my floor board is rusted through. I gus that will be my next project. If I can get it running again. My first time pulling a engine.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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No problem there . I just found that my floor board is rusted through. I gus that will be my next project. If I can get it running again. My first time pulling a engine.
Taking it out is easy. Take your time and keep telling yourself to do it the right way now when it's easy, and not fix it when you put it back together. Much easier to take stuff apart while block is hanging in front of you.

I have mine out for the third time now because I keep ***ing with it. Takes me less than two hours to pull mine because I changed around wiring and plumbing to be as fast as possible.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
Oh, and future you will thank present you when you anti seize every single nut and bolt when you put it back together. Trust us on this. Spend the 9 bucks and extra hour. That's all it takes to not fight with shit in the future.
 

RBereswill

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Oh, and future you will thank present you when you anti seize every single nut and bolt when you put it back together. Trust us on this. Spend the 9 bucks and extra hour. That's all it takes to not fight with shit in the future.
I have been using anti seize. I been wondering if that stuff works. I'm also using the rust transformer paint.
 

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Anti seize certainly works. It doesn't take much to make a difference. Especially on spark plugs. There is nothing worse than dealing with a seized or snapped spark plug.
 

RobbieD

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Anti seize certainly works. It doesn't take much to make a difference. Especially on spark plugs. There is nothing worse than dealing with a seized or snapped spark plug.
Two seized or snapped spark plugs?

HIGHLY recommend anti seize when reassembling. You'll thank yourself later.
 

G8orFord

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Two seized or snapped spark plugs?

HIGHLY recommend anti seize when reassembling. You'll thank yourself later.
Or 8 of 10 on a 3-valve Triton.
 

Kira

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This Anti-Seize thread started as a bolt location question. lol
I bought nickel anti-seize as it withstands high temperatures.

My 15 year old 4.0 has it's original plugs at 50,000 miles. Would you change them for rust related reasons?
 

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