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Project Trail Authority (Official Build Thread)


RacinNdrummin

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Damn dude, your practically my neighbor... I live right next to GRCC.

You know I have a 3.73 Dana 35 for sale on CL right now right? :D

In fact, its the one covered in mud in my avatar...
 
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Viva*the*Ranger

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Damn dude, your practically my neighbor... I live right next to GRCC.

You know I have a 3.73 Dana 35 for sale on CL right now right? :D

In fact, its the one covered in mud in my avatar...
Ha ha, that's awesome! I've been seeing a lot more Washintonions on here lately. Wana trade D35's? It would at least match my rear end ratio, till I could afford to re-gear...:icon_bounceblue:

We need to set up a Western Wa meet soon:headbang:
 

Viva*the*Ranger

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Well I'm ripping in to the D35 tonight, and beginning the cleaning process. I'm going to take the rotors down to be turned, replacing some bushings, greasing everything, and lastly painting everything.





I have a question.. I'm not going to run with the sway bar, so do I need to keep the mount bolted up, for spacing purposes? It doesn't look like it, but I just want to make sure.

 

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You don't need it. It will just sit a hair lower.
 

Viva*the*Ranger

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Thanks, that's exactly what I thought. I'm gona do a 1" spacer (washers) under the coils, so I don't think I'll miss the 1/8" space too much. I guess a washer obove the hex should restore the lost space.

Any other tips while I have her apart? Do you think 4.56's would be sufficient for 35's, with the 2.9?

Thanks

-Denny
 
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SAY789

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Nice so far lookin good. You should just cut n turn it before you throw it under. As soon as i can have my hands on a spare set of housings im goin down that road for more lift
 

Bennybooster

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I would go 4.88
 

Viva*the*Ranger

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Nice so far lookin good. You should just cut n turn it before you throw it under. As soon as i can have my hands on a spare set of housings im goin down that road for more lift
Not 100% sure what "cut and turn" means.... Ha ha, I'm learning:icon_bounceblue:

I would go 4.88
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm sure that would be much better, given the super weak low end a 2.9 has with 155k on it. Any brand in particular?
 

slow96gt

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yea ive been looking for a good thread about the whole cut and turn, i would love to try it but i still dont understand the whole concept
 

Viva*the*Ranger

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yea ive been looking for a good thread about the whole cut and turn, i would love to try it but i still dont understand the whole concept
I found this write up on it. It would be great to have a step by step, with lots of pics, but this helps.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/zimmerman_ttb.htm

Here is a bit of a better explanation of cut and turn. There are actually two ways to do it. You can move the ball joint tabs, to relieve camber, or you can cut, and turn, at mid beam. Here is another source, that helps explain things.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206455&page=3

That's a really cool thread, and totally worth reading!
 
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Bennybooster

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Thanks for the suggestion. I'm sure that would be much better, given the super weak low end a 2.9 has with 155k on it. Any brand in particular?
I would go Yukon Gear, they seem popular
 

Viva*the*Ranger

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Thanks man. I'm checking out their website right now.
 

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Viva*the*Ranger

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Well, I'm getting her all torn apart now. Tomorrow I'm going to weld some armor on to the front diff. I also decided to weld the spiders, instead of paying $260 + shipping for a locker, so that will be done tomorrow as well. Pics to come!! That should help speed up the build a little. Sometime next week, I'll have all fron't end parts painted, new U-joints, and bushings.





I also finally found the socket that doesn't seem to exist in Western Wa for the hub nuts. Ha ha, I've called 10 to 15 places, and no one knew what i was talking about. Turns out, there was a tool shop about five miles away that had it for $20.



-Denny
 
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TheTopher

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Looks like fun!
 

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