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Problems with lack of power


reed b.

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No, on the OBD1, or OBD2, that's not what they do

They basically just have a circuit tester on each sensor that tells if its hooked up, and then will have a "range" for that sensor, if its out of range then it will set a code or if its disconnected/broken it will set a code

Computer has no idea if engine is running poorly or running well
Fuel pump could die, no code
Head gasket blows, no code
Timing is off, no code
Lifter ticks, no code
Rod knocks, no code

Pattern is, if there is "No Code" then its a mechanical issue

But that being said, No Code may mean a computer issue, lol, brain damaged computers often won't set any codes
So just as a test unplug TPS and start engine, should get CEL and a TPS code right away, a sanity test
 


lvwill

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Did you have a cel?
88 should definitely have a grey tfi. Has nothing to do with altitude has to do with the way the computer controls timing. Really sounds like you have a computer problem.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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2.9 never came with black tfi. Not even in the uk or Europe. You need a grey push start box. Get a Motorcraft. Call a dealer. They will get one ordered.

Aftermarket ones are akin to putting your money in a pile and setting it on fire.

Remote mount it BEFORE install as well. They never perform well after they get too hot, even once. I remote mounted mine when new with a pc heat sink and thermal paste. Used shielded cable and made a wells tfi an adapter plug. Whole lot more get up and go, and never have to worry about losing another one.
 

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Reed,

With a fresh rebuild demonstrating anything other than "LETS PARTY with GREAT POWER", knowing that the major components are in New or good condition, I would:

1) reverify the timing. If your heads were milled the amount can have a play on the timing too.

2) if you are absolute that you have at least the Ford recommend timing, I would look at the valve adjustment. It would be easy to be off by enough to make a difference in power. I have found better results from adjusting the valves on a engine at proper operating temperature than when done cold on a stand. While I will concede that pulling the valve covers is not my favorite operation, properly adjusted lifter rockers are.


It may take a solid 2-3 hours and I had to do it 3 times to get it correct but it was ABSOLUTELY worth it.

Don't give up, you will find the power problem!
 
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reed b.

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Ron, As I understand it you are correct that the computer doesn't know if the engine is running 'right' or not. However, it would show that a circuit including the particular sensor or part that it powers is working or not and if it is within range for that part. I also understand that engine parts that have no connection to the computer cannot show any codes. That was why I did a visual inspection of the catalytic convertors for possible blockage; another part that can show no code. The engine runs well under no load. It wasn't that the scanner did not show codes in the past; that was the reason I changed the ECT sensor. The code said it was not within correct range; the same for the IAC valve. I have worked my way through until my scanner said DTC: 11 . I just put the light on #1 and with the SPOUT connected it is at 10 BDC and with the SPOUT reconnected it is reading 22 degrees advance. I'd rather not try to change the setting with the engine heated up right now; we all know how much fun it is to get to that clamp bolt. There are no noises other than from a misaligned alternator pulley that squeals every so often. I had figured that having two computers and having no differences in performance when using either of them might mean that was not an issue; but you are right in that they could both be bad. At $150-$300+ it isn't a part I would want to buy just for a 'check' though.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Also double check all grounds. Obd1 isn't a fan of bad ones.

But $1 says wrong tfi.
 

reed b.

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Ron, Now you are making things just too much fun! I got the rebuilt distributor because I thought the TFI module could be the problem. There has been no change in performance with the new gray unit as it runs the same as with the old black one. Boy, I am not looking forward to pulling the intake and all the rest so I can change it back to the old black unit. The plug fits both units. If you think that is what the problem may be then I will try it out tomorrow. At this time my brain is starting to fry and it is time to make myself some dinner. I will return tomorrow. Thanks to one and all for now! Reed
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Ron, Now you are making things just too much fun! I got the rebuilt distributor because I thought the TFI module could be the problem. There has been no change in performance with the new gray unit as it runs the same as with the old black one. Boy, I am not looking forward to pulling the intake and all the rest so I can change it back to the old black unit. The plug fits both units. If you think that is what the problem may be then I will try it out tomorrow. At this time my brain is starting to fry and it is time to make myself some dinner. I will return tomorrow. Thanks to one and all for now! Reed
Grind down the outside rim of a deep well 7/32 socket, or kobalt fits unmodified. Its a PITA, but if you stand on the bumper, its a cinch.
 

reed b.

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Pj.... I have a feeling there are some bad grounds or wiring as has been shown to be the case with the temp gauge anyway. The bigger problem is finding which connection to ground it is in the loom and even finding it ! I will be switching the TFI back to the old black one tomorrow and see what happens. Again, I'd rather not be just buying parts for the heck of it. A lot of other things going on right now to spend a limited amount of funds on! (as always!)
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Ron, As I understand it you are correct that the computer doesn't know if the engine is running 'right' or not. However, it would show that a circuit including the particular sensor or part that it powers is working or not and if it is within range for that part. I also understand that engine parts that have no connection to the computer cannot show any codes. That was why I did a visual inspection of the catalytic convertors for possible blockage; another part that can show no code. The engine runs well under no load. It wasn't that the scanner did not show codes in the past; that was the reason I changed the ECT sensor. The code said it was not within correct range; the same for the IAC valve. I have worked my way through until my scanner said DTC: 11 . I just put the light on #1 and with the SPOUT connected it is at 10 BDC and with the SPOUT reconnected it is reading 22 degrees advance. I'd rather not try to change the setting with the engine heated up right now; we all know how much fun it is to get to that clamp bolt. There are no noises other than from a misaligned alternator pulley that squeals every so often. I had figured that having two computers and having no differences in performance when using either of them might mean that was not an issue; but you are right in that they could both be bad. At $150-$300+ it isn't a part I would want to buy just for a 'check' though.
I will meditate on this. May not be tfi.

Hm.
 

reed b.

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Pj.. Hope that acronym is okay with you. The clamp bolt on my engine has a 13 mm head on it and all I can fit is a stubby combo wrench on it. And that is lying over the engine with half of my right arm not visible!. At 70 and with two shoulder surgeries on my right side, a double hernia surgery two years ago, as well as both knees being in poor shape, attempting to stand on the chrome bumper and still function is more than a PITA, it's a Pain All Over!!
 

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