Pro-Tips or Tricks re-sealing or installing new Fluid Inlet Tube (not dipstick tube) to Transmission

[Beetlejuice]

I figured it would be appropriate to start a new thread for the latest chapter in my "leaky trans" story in hopes I can get some fresh eyes. After further review, the "Fluid Tube Inlet" (the piece that actually connects to the Transmission itself and not the dipstick filler tube) has lost its seal and there is a lot of play between the part and the trans. This appears to be the primary source of the trans fluid drip issue ive been dealing with. See:

Does anyone have any Pro-Tips or Ticks for re-sealing or installing new Fluid Inlet Tube to the Transmission?

I cant find any Ford documentation that covers best practice or guidance on how to ensure a tight seal. The replacement parts Ive found online all have what appears to be some sealant material painted on the inlet tube lip that enters the top of the trans.

Thanks

 

[Beetlejuice]

An update for future owners or anyone who's interested -

I purchased a new Fluid Inlet Tube (Ford Part 6L5Z-7A160-A) and the outer diameter of the pipe that fits into the top of the trans is ever so slightly larger than my loose/leaky tube.

I attempted to swap the new part in today but the fit is much too tight for me to do by hand and there is very little room to work. I got some feedback from someone who's installed these types of trans inlet tubes before, the recommendation is to clamp some vise-grip type pliers around the lower neck of the tube, then tap the pliers with a hammer until the tube is seated fully.

In the meantime and until I'm able to get the job done properly, I some PTFT to help snug my original pipe back down...

While I was down there I swapped the Dipstick fill tube rubber o-ring seal (Ford part 87034-S94)

I suspect there is a way to get enough room / leverage if the passenger wheel and inner wheel-well is removed.. possibly the exhaust too.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Clamping a pair of vice grips loosely (tight but not enough to distort the tube) then use a large pair of channel lock pliers from the vise grips to the bottom of the pan. Squeeze it in place. I remember doing that in the past.

Be sure to lube the o-ring too... it should just pop in there when you get it lined up. A bell housing bolt holds it from coming back out. They really aren't super tight... just have to get the "right angle to the dangle".

 

[Beetlejuice]

Clamping a pair of vice grips loosely (tight but not enough to distort the tube) then use a large pair of channel lock pliers from the vise grips to the bottom of the pan. Squeeze it in place. I remember doing that in the past.

Be sure to lube the o-ring too... it should just pop in there when you get it lined up. A bell housing bolt holds it from coming back out. They really aren't super tight... just have to get the "right angle to the dangle".

im trying to visualize this method of vice grip and channel lock plier but not quite seeing it

lubed the dipstick o-ring with some trans fluid

 

[Uncle Gump]

One jaw of the open channel locks over the vise grips... the other jaw under the transmission pan edge. Then just lightly squeeze the channel locks. It should bring the tube downward into position.