Power windows shuddering when lowering

[plainolebill]

Like I said in the title when I lower the power windows, about 1/3 to 1/2 way down they shudder or shake. The run up fine, does anyone know what the fix is for this? The truck has a fair amount of mileage on it, could both regulator assemblies be worn out. I squirted some silicone spray along the tracks on the driver's side but it didn't improve at all.

 

[dvdswan]

Could be a couple of things...

worn bearing rollers, dry or dirty run channels, worn run channels, loose run channel track in the door.

 

[rumblecloud]

It's probably not the motors.
If you look inside the door (after removing the door panel of course), the front track has a tendency to separate. The fabric pulls away from the metal due to rust and age. That could be causing the shudder on the way down.

 

[plainolebill]

Is the fix to replace the track? Is it fixable? Thanks.

 

[rumblecloud]

Well...that depends on your patience-level. First you have to find a replacement. Then you have to like working in tight places on things you can't really see .
I'm waiting for mine to completely fall apart until I venture in there. I'm not even sure I know where to find a replacement. I have one for the passenger side courtesy of a junk yard door - yes, I removed the entire door to get the innards - it was easier.

 

[JoshT]

Arent you just talking about window channel weatherstrip, isn't it prety much universal? Just find the profile and size you need, pull out the old, install the new. I've only done it in my F-100 and my 84 Ranger, but I just bought kits for those.

I'd be more likely to think that the problem is with the regulator. Either needing to be lubed or the roller and track needing cleaned and lube. That's where I would start anyway. I don't remember if these regulators are spring loaded, but if not I would expect to see something like you are describing more in up travel than down travel if it was a motor or gear issue.

 

[plainolebill]

No problems when they are going up, just down. If it's going to be expensive or complex I guess I'll live with it.

 

[JoshT]

Shouldn't be. If it was a motor or gear, I'd be expecting the issue when going up, not down. Most likely just needs cleaning and lubing.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

This is a well known Ranger problem, even on the 2011 models. Mine does it too, during or just after rain, but the weatherstripping is in very good shape. Ford has a technical service bulletin on a fix that involves disassembling the door and replacing things—at your expense, of course. And it ain't cheap.

The shuddering is caused by the weatherstripping trying to grab the glass on the way down.

I use CRC silicon spray lube on the weatherstripping after lowering the window. You need to do this on both sides of the stripping in relation to the glass, and also on the front and rear of the window opening. No need to spray the stripping at the very top of the window opening, as the glass contacts that only when it's all the way up.

Don't go really crazy with the lube. When I used it last year, it took care of the shuddering for some time. I need to do it again, but it's been months since that first application.

 

[rumblecloud]

This is a well known Ranger problem, even on the 2011 models. Mine does it too, during or just after rain, but the weatherstripping is in very good shape. Ford has a technical service bulletin on a fix that involves disassembling the door and replacing things—at your expense, of course. And it ain't cheap.

The shuddering is caused by the weatherstripping trying to grab the glass on the way down.

I use CRC silicon spray lube on the weatherstripping after lowering the window. You need to do this on both sides of the stripping in relation to the glass, and also on the front and rear of the window opening. No need to spray the stripping at the very top of the window opening, as the glass contacts that only when it's all the way up.

Don't go really crazy with the lube. When I used it last year, it took care of the shuddering for some time. I need to do it again, but it's been months since that first application.

Curious...in order to apply the lube, do you need to remove the door panel (seems a dumb question, but just want to be clear for the OP).
Door panels are fairly easy to remove and the spray lube can't be that expensive.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Curious...in order to apply the lube, do you need to remove the door panel (seems a dumb question, but just want to be clear for the OP).
Door panels are fairly easy to remove and the spray lube can't be that expensive.

No. I use the applicator tube that comes with the can and inserts in the spray button. You can aim the lube where it needs to go, including on the stripping inside the door, just above where the angled front of the window ends up when lowered. The applicator is actually pretty precise. After you spray the stripping, raise and lower the window a few times.

Do you really have to drill out a handle rivet to remove the inner door panel on the later Rangers? The Haynes manual says this, and to me it makes no sense to make removing the door panel unnecessarily hard. Been meaning to ask this and forgot till now.

 

[rumblecloud]

Do you really have to drill out a handle rivet to remove the inner door panel on the later Rangers? The Haynes manual says this, and to me it makes no sense to make removing the door panel unnecessarily hard. Been meaning to ask this and forgot till now.

My 94 has three phillips screws - one on the A-pillar, one inside the armrest handle and one at the lower rear portion of the door panel. The black plastic panel that holds the power locks and windows buttons snaps into and pries out -carefully - from the door panel. still attached by the harness until you remove the screws holding the buttons in place. Once that's done, just lift up on the panel.

The entry door handle is riveted, but there is no need to remove it.

 

[plainolebill]

Thanks for the info, it has been raining for a long time so that may have something to do with it. Welcome to Oregon.

 

[plainolebill]

This is a well known Ranger problem, even on the 2011 models. Mine does it too, during or just after rain, but the weatherstripping is in very good shape. Ford has a technical service bulletin on a fix that involves disassembling the door and replacing things—at your expense, of course. And it ain't cheap.

The shuddering is caused by the weatherstripping trying to grab the glass on the way down.

I use CRC silicon spray lube on the weatherstripping after lowering the window. You need to do this on both sides of the stripping in relation to the glass, and also on the front and rear of the window opening. No need to spray the stripping at the very top of the window opening, as the glass contacts that only when it's all the way up.

Don't go really crazy with the lube. When I used it last year, it took care of the shuddering for some time. I need to do it again, but it's been months since that first application.

CRC seems to have a lot of silicone spray lubes, which one do you use?

 

[ekrampitzjr]

The can I have is red, CRC Heavy Duty Silicone 05074. Make sure it has the applicator tube taped to the can. You need that tube.

It goes without saying, but just in case, here goes: this is not an application for anything like WD-40. That stuff will attack rubber stripping. Stick to silicone.