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Powder Coating Questions


Gotta_gofast

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Well, I purchased a powdercoating gun from Eastwood Company. In the upcoming weeks, I will be mediablasting some metal parts and I want to try out this guy. It says any non food prep oven will work, that I need something that maintains at least 400*F. Well, I have an old gas BBQ grill that I use to cure high temperature paint and coatings and it works excellent. Basically, I have a solid metal plate to deflect any direct flame or tempurature spikes. Above it is a rack for the metal parts to sit. Can I use this set up to cure my powdercoated parts?

Some other questions I have are: Where do you purchase your powder? Any tips on powder coating? How thick should this be applied? Do I have to wetsand and buff the cured powdercoat like I do with paint? And how durable is the finished product?

Thanks guys, I've always used my HPLV gun and shot the parts. But this is a first.
 


triumphrider-1

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I can't help you out a whole lot, but I'll try.

Any auto paint supply place should be able to get you some powder, I know the place I go to for auto paints can order it.

As far as the heat source I would think as long as its not direct heat and a somewhat constant heat at or above 400F you would be fine. I know the powder company I use heats theirs up to 350F and holds it for 20-30 minutes.

No need to wet sand and buff after baking it on (I suppose you could, but I don't). Once its done and on all my stuff has been REALLY durable, but these are motorcycles and not cars/trucks.
 

Gotta_gofast

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Is there a lot of orange peel or runs with powder coating? I would only wet sand and buff if there is.
 

Destroyer000

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orange peel none runs none at all.. if its sprayed a little thick in some spots it melts an blends in. my buddy does a TON of powder coating. i help him out regularly we usually spray the parts then bake them turn the oven on for 370 an once it gets to temp with parts inside it will beep then we bake them for 15 min.. the finish is pretty durable.. the "wrinkle" finish tends to hide any small imperfections in the workpiece. as far as thickness goes.. i give the part a good coat any 90 degree edges the powder will go on thin.. something about 90s.. a curved area no problems i tend to "shake" the gun when i spray i dont hold the trigger i sorta "pump" it.. once you do a bunch of items you will get the fell of it.
 

Gotta_gofast

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Thats nice that there's no orange peel or runs. Basically, its pretty easy to apply and responds well to minor mistakes? Now, you guys are using an electric oven, will a BBQ grill set at the same temperature (with a flame-block plate) yield the same results?
 

Destroyer000

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i dont see why not.. as long as the temp is 400 an stays their for 15min you should be golden.. my buddy built his oven.. its 5x5x3 an has 3 heating elements ..
 

Gotta_gofast

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Awesome, I will have to try that. I'm also looking at powder coating a set of headers I bought used for my 3.0L. I'm going to mediablast them (they're thick stainless steel so they aren't rusty, just dirty) and then hit it real good with acetone to get a clean surface. I want to use Eastwood's high temp satin black. Is one generous coat of powder enough?
 

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You could try hitting up a garage sale looking for a oven. I would think you would have more room in a oven vs. a grill.

Do you need to hang the parts or can you lay them down?

How do you apply your PC.?
 

Destroyer000

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depending on what the part is most of the time you hang them. i just did my manifold with east wood high temp grey powder.. not sure how well its going to hold up.. will find out shortly..
 

Gotta_gofast

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Well, the Grill is about 20" deep and 36" wide. I could fit a max height of about 12" in the middle and the top slopes down to about 8" in the very front and back. I've never powdercoated before, so I'm going to play around with it first. But what I want to do, is take the rack off of the grill and support it 5 or so feet in the air by the corners so that I have access to underneath. Then, I will apply the powder to the underside of the header through rack (its just 1/4" bars 1.5" apart) After, I will apply powder to the top and sides. Everywhere except the gasket surfaces I want to cover.

As I bake one item, I will then prep and do the other. I have two racks, so this way I can work on the other header while keeping an eye on the baking one. Is this a sound plan? Once again, I haven't powder coated anything before so some of you might know of an easier way.
 

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I powder coated a lot at a place where I used to work. You would want a well ventilated place to do it. You can get powder from GROVESON (I think thats how it is spelled) any color and grade you want. You can buff sand down the item for a smoother look. Make sure there are no voids on the item or things that would cause the powder not to stick. i.e oil, greese, welding slag, etc. last when it is done you would want to hang it in your heat source old hanger or wire. if you lay it in there when as it cures it will stick to what its on and you will have to do it all over again. Apply as much as you want just do not cake it on there. let sit in heat for about 17 to 20 min for best results. another thing is powder coat is supposed to be elecro static so you should not need to P/C one side then turn it around then P/C the other side. It should just wrap around from one side. Hope that helps
 

Gotta_gofast

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Okay, I'll check out Groveson. Hmmm, I could try to hang it, but I'm not sure if the grill is tall enough. Maybe I'll get the old tig welder out and fab up some perches so that I can suspend the headers by the flange bolt holes.
 

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Okay, I'll check out Groveson. Hmmm, I could try to hang it, but I'm not sure if the grill is tall enough. Maybe I'll get the old tig welder out and fab up some perches so that I can suspend the headers by the flange bolt holes.
Hanging it is the best. Like I said if it is sitting on something when it heats up it will melt the powder into a liquid. It will stick to whatever it is sitting on and when you break it off it will mess up the P/C where it was sitting. Do not go over 400 degrees or it will melt all the P/C off and you will have to do it again
 

Gotta_gofast

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Yep, I will make some perches that suspend the header pieces by the bolt holes on the flange. Does anyone have any experience with High-temp powdercoating? The headers shouldn't get too hot. Its a DD that sees occasional offroad and towing. No turbos, no high rpm racing. I just want something scratch and heat resistant. I read on another forum to coat the inside of the header, too!? Would that hold? I was looking at Eastwoodco.com and thinking about either stainless steel gray or satin black. Any other places to shop around? Also, how much powder will I need to coat V6 shorty headers and a "Y" pipe? 8oz should be enough...

Sorry for the questions. I just like to do projects with a little bit of knowledge and know-how. It tends to save me money. lol
 

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They have different grades of P/C measured by heat and gloss or flat look. For that little bit im not sure on how much you would need. We used 2 20lb boxes in 8 hours of use.
 

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