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Possible to fry the PCM/ECU by using multimeter to diagnose DPFE sensor?


deezkits

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I ain’t even mad. This is pure comedy. I also learned not to move the steering rack with the truck off cause a nice bit of power steering fluid leaked out the res. I’ll just assume my front brake lines are gonna blow once I get this fired up again, just like the rear did recently.

I suppose I’m off to buy a new starter.
 


RonD

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Starter AND Battery................
 

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After start up, battery should read above 14volts but under 15volts, this is "system voltage", if not alternator is not ON
This could be a blown fuse or alternator failure

After 10min of engine running(and still idling, no restart) battery voltage should read 13.5v to 13.9v, under 14v, if alternator runs above 14volts too long it will ruin the battery, same as if its not working at all
A failing battery can also cause system voltage to stay above 14volts, see below

A Battery is ONLY used to start the engine, the alternator powers the WHOLE VEHICLE once engine is running
The 14/15volt is a quick recharge in case engine stalls and you need to restart it(use battery again)
After a few minutes battery is recharged and system voltage drops under 14v, but stays above 13.4v to KEEP battery charged for next start up

New battery voltage, key off, should be 12.8v
3 year old battery 12.5v
5/6 year old battery 12.3v and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or under is a dying battery, drained, and will not "hold a charge" very long, this causes alternator to run above 14volts, longterm, it is trying to recharge an "un-rechargeable" battery
 
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deezkits

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After start up, battery should read above 14volts but under 15volts, this is "system voltage", if not alternator is not ON
This could be a blown fuse or alternator failure

After 10min of engine running(and still idling, no restart) battery voltage should read 13.5v to 13.9v, under 14v, if alternator runs above 14volts too long it will ruin the battery, same as if its not working at all
A failing battery can also cause system voltage to stay above 14volts, see below

A Battery is ONLY used to start the engine, the alternator powers the WHOLE VEHICLE once engine is running
The 14/15volt is a quick recharge in case engine stalls and you need to restart it(use battery again)
After a few minutes battery is recharged and system voltage drops under 14v, but stays above 13.4v to KEEP battery charged for next start up

New battery voltage, key off, should be 12.8v
3 year old battery 12.5v
5/6 year old battery 12.3v and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or under is a dying battery, drained, and will not "hold a charge" very long, this causes alternator to run above 14volts, longterm, it is trying to recharge an "un-rechargeable" battery
Great info, thank you.
 

Dirtman

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Oh I see.. so my info was worthless... i see how it is...
 

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You're such a girl :)
 

deezkits

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Oh I see.. so my info was worthless... i see how it is...
could’ve sworn I said thank you, aha. I mean, Ron did type more.. lol. Thanks Dirtman. But yeah, no luck yet even with a new starter and battery. More research is necessary I suppose.
 

Dirtman

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Its ok i still love you.
 

Dirtman

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Let's get your truck fixed. Do you have a multi meter?
 

deezkits

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Let's get your truck fixed. Do you have a multi meter?
I do. I double checked the voltage drop to the new starter again to be sure. Maybe it’s the solenoid control wire? I imagine that goes to the ignition somewhere.

I went through my fuses and did find this odd - the 7.5amp clutch position something fuse in passenger compartment panel was blown. My buddy at one point a couple days ago was helping me with this no start, and was attempting to bypass the clutch/neutral switch.
I switched it with another 7.5 amp fuse for the trailer light connector for now.
 

Dirtman

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You said you tried to jump the starter at the solenoid. Meaning if you did it the way I assume, you took every peice of electronic out of the equation. If it didn't turn over doing that, you have a battery or starter problem, simply nothing else in there. If it turned over but didn't start that's different... so lets get back to basics here.
 

deezkits

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You said you tried to jump the starter at the solenoid. Meaning if you did it the way I assume, you took every peice of electronic out of the equation. If it didn't turn over doing that, you have a battery or starter problem, simply nothing else in there. If it turned over but didn't start that's different... so lets get back to basics here.
I tried jump bypassing the old starter, didn’t get a chance try it with the new one. However, on the old one, the starter did turn over, yet no start on the truck.
 

deezkits

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Just tried bypassing the new starter solenoid. Still won’t start. The starter spins up, but it must not be moving the pinion gear forward. Do I need to have a second person putting the key past ON as if trying to start the truck while I bypass the solenoid?
 

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