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Possible sticky: 2.9 stock valves and aftetmarket heads vs. SI Portflow Stainless Valves and ported heads


PetroleumJunkie412

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Just some comparison shots of the valves I picked up for my build. Due to a shop incident, flow numbers are going to be a little delayed.

However, for reference, side by side comparison of valve choices. The SI valves are around $170 for a full set, not far off from the cost of factory valves. Flow increases are supposed to be around 35%. We shall see...

Part numbers are:

SEV-3489 - Intake valves

SEV-2012 - Exhaust valves

_20200329_081351.JPG



_20200329_081421.JPG



_20200329_081444.JPG
 
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19Walt93

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If you need valves anyway I'd go with the stainless ones. If you're replacing the heads I definitely replace the valves. Looking at the old valves you showed, you don't need valves but it may cost nearly as much to have them resurfaced as it would to replace them. I do a mild porting on every head I do, smooth up the sharp edges and grind off the casting lines, I don't make any major port shape changes. Which ever way you go, make sure to lap in the valves with compound to confirm they seat well.
 

Nez'sRanger

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They're on my bucket list! I have a spare engine in the garage waiting for money (since we apparently have all the time in the world now!).
 

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PJ, what are you doing regarding springs, locks, etc?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Went with Pruett for hardware choices:

Screenshot_20200329-144107.png




As of now, I'll break everything in with a set of sealed power stock replacement springs, then after break in, change out for the stiffer dual ones. It was recommended by a bunch of places to start with a weaker set until the cam breaks in.

Lifters are Crane FE Block anti pump up - part number 99281... If you decide to go with the FE Block anti pump ups, please take care with setting lash. They DO NOT set like normal hydraulic lifters - they have a lash adjustment like solid lifters. Setting these like normal 2.9 lifters destroys them.
 

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So the FE lifters are solid, correct? Solid lifter cam? Have you managed to get some working rocker spacers to go with all this top-end work?

I won't be building mine as near as elaborate as yours. But I would like to put new valves, springs, etc in the new J & C heads, light porting/port matching, SS headers, rocker spacers, etc. The double roll timing chain, valve covers, roller rockers, and other 2.9 goodies from Morana sure would be nice :).
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Nope, FE lifters are anti pump up... Strange little things. They're hydraulic, but haveave a stop built into them to prevent a totally collapsed lifter. Safe to run with a stock cam. ??
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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So the FE lifters are solid, correct? Solid lifter cam? Have you managed to get some working rocker spacers to go with all this top-end work?

I won't be building mine as near as elaborate as yours. But I would like to put new valves, springs, etc in the new J & C heads, light porting/port matching, SS headers, rocker spacers, etc. The double roll timing chain, valve covers, roller rockers, and other 2.9 goodies from Morana sure would be nice :).
So... Yeah. J&c heads use USED valve springs. Used. So, may want to look into replacing those. Won't buy another set from them after that.

I was going to pull the trigger on the double chain, but Pruett insists a cloyes set is adequate. Saw a difference when I switched from a Chinese set to the cloyes.

Oh, and did finally get a set of rocker spacers made. Will be a separate post with a contact for the school that made them.
 

19Walt93

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If those lifters are hydraulic they shouldn't have lash, they have to be under preload to work. Rule of thumb is .020" to .060". What is the benefit of using FE lifters? Regardless what lifters you use they will need break in at 1500-2500 rpms while constantly varying the speed for about 20 minutes using high zinc oil or a zddp additive, then an oil & filter change with some more of the same stuff.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Sort of Walt... They're a hybrid lifter. Just following manufacturer instructions on them, but they need to be lashed like a solid due to the internal stop.

Just turns out the FE block and 2.9 take the same size lifters, so opens up a lot of options.
 

19Walt93

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Can you post a link so I can look at it, please? Having lash would defeat the function of a hydraulic lifter.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Screenshot_20200330-131524.png


Right in the section titled "high Rev hydraulic lifters."

It is counter-intuitive, true, but the new internals are being set up for a 7000 rpm redline. This limited lifter choices to soilds and custom cam, or hydraulic lifters and a lower redline. This seems to be a happy medium. The dyno will be the final test, though.
 

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19Walt93

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Interesting, have you got 7000rpm rods and pistons,too?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Yessir. In the middle of a Pruett spec build. Haven't been posting much as it's labor intensive. Have kept good notes. Just posted pics on a random thread calling out 8thTon lol
 


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