2.3L ('83-'97) Popping from exhaust but will not fire when cranked.

[Mach1run]

Still battling this 1997 Ranger to get it started again. I am about to have to just have it taken to a shop

Timing belt shredded on Christmas Eve so we had to get a new one. Got the new one on and had some more mechanically inclined help getting it set right. Now when we crank it we get an intermittent popping sound from the exhaust but it wont fire.

New plugs and wires on too while i was after it. Do I maybe need a new battery too? Volts read fine but maybe the amps are not enough anymore, 2017 sticker.

Or maybe I still don't quite have the belt set right.

Crappy phone recording below, maybe someone will recognize the symptoms.

 

[scotts90ranger]

My guess is timing belt isn't on right still, that doesn't sound like there's compression, it's turning too fast. I don't remember where I found a picture of the timing marks for my '97 when I did that belt but it wasn't broken when I did it... Just a note both big pulleys have to be lined up to their marks, not just the top one. It'll run without the lower big pulley lined up just not right.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^^

Timing belt is broken or has slipped..........alot

What year is the Ranger?
If its 1988 or older it will have 4 spark plugs and a distributor
1989 and up will have 8 spark plugs and coil packs
1995-1997 will have different type of crank sensor

So year can matter when there is a problem

But they all used the same timing marks, well sort of: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_98ranger4cyltimmrks_1.jpg

Cam gear, at the top, uses a TRIANGLE timing mark at 4:00
Oil Pump gear, in the middle, uses a DIAMOND timing mark at 12:00

Crank gear, at bottom, uses a DOT mark at 12:15

Cam and crank gear have to be way off to get what your video shows, or belt has come off

On later models with the triangle and diamond marks, BOTH Cam gear and Oil pump gear have BOTH marks, and a worn down Diamond looks like a Triangle..................


OOPS: sorry I see its a 1997, you said it right up front so I missed it, lol

 

[Mach1run]

Brand new belt, not broken. Front cover still open so I can see what is going on.

Is that what 180 out would sound like?

The cam gear and crankshaft were dead on this last time. Oil pump gear may be a tooth clockwise. Because of the ribs one the belt we had to pick either on clockwise or one counter in order to get the other 2 dead on.

I love / hate learning new skills lol.

Gonna mess with it some more today. Fingers crossed.

 

[RonD]

You can't set it up 180 out, you can set distributor 180 out
Crank at 12:00, cam at 4:00 sets compression

If cover is off you can check that, pull out #1 spark plug(pulling out spark plugs from each cylinder would be better, make engine easier to turn manually)
You want to turn the engine until #1 piston is at TDC, highest point, you can use a stick down spark plug hole to feel where piston is
OR if crank pulley has TDC mark turn it to 0deg TDC

Then look where cam gear mark is pointed, it will either be at 4:00 or 10:00 either is correct when crank is at #1 TDC
Oil gear will be at 12:00 if cam is at 4:00, or 6:00 if cam is at 10:00


Crank turns twice for one turn of cam so.................180 out would still be correct cam timing

 

[Mach1run]

So I almost had it I think.

I set it to tdc with a straw through the spark plug hole. Got my timing marks on other 2 gear dang near dead on.

Tried it and it sounded like it was gonna go then nothing.

Put a wrench on crank and spun the crank until cam and oil marks lined back up then popped the cover back on to see crank mark.

Crank mark was like 20 deg before tc on the cover.

Put cover on and moved the crank mark to tc. Reset oil and cam.

Tried again.

Sounds like maybe back firing? Not the same "soft" popping as before.

Will upload some video and pics after dinner.

 

[Mach1run]

Stupid question ...

I dont have the i take tube on. Is that gonna affect getting it to start? I know there are a couple sensors there.

 

[RonD]

No, the air tube does have MAF sensor but engine would still start fine

Only crank sensor is used for startup


Are you saying the crank gear/timing shifted?
Its not unheard of for crank gear woodruff key to shear off, allowing crank gear to shift timing locations

Did the straw in the cylinder TDC match TDC mark on crank?

As you might suspect the timing of this engine is not overly complicated so you may be looking at "an unusual" failure vs just mis-timed belt

Crank gear is often not removed, no need to really, so sheared key wouldn't be seen

 

[Mach1run]

I hope the key hasn't sheared. But that sounds reasonable as to why I cant get this. Might also explain why everyone keeps saying it doesn't sound like it is turning fast enough. The shaft is turning inside the gear and the gear is turning slower than the shaft if the key broke inside? And it wouldn't stay running because the timing slips when it did fire? Only way to tell is take the gear off?

So he's the potato phone recording with #1 set at TDC using a straw and the mark on the timing cover. You can hear the popping sounds similar to the first video..

This is what I got when I set TDC with out using the cover at all. Just going by feel with the straw. Was nearly 20-25 deg before TDC when I checked it after.

Really tempting to buy one of those MPS 5.0 swap kits if I am going to have to go too far into the engine lol.

 

[racsan]

I know of someone who had a timing belt break a couple of months ago (95 2.3) and in the process of fixing it they damaged the crank sensor and had to replace it so it could run, might not be the case with yours since it tries to fire but Id still give everything down there a good looking over.

 

[tomw]

The pulley on the crankshaft has a keyway that should be at 12 noon when the #1 piston is at TDC. If you remove the bolt, you should be able to see if the crankshaft pulley groove aligns with the crankshaft groove. Maybe not see the crankshaft groove if it is a round woodruff key. I don't remember.
Once you have the marks aligned on all sprockets, you should rotate the crankshaft two complete turns(puts all 4 cycles on all 4 pistons & valve) and then re-check the alignment. Sometimes the slack ends up in the wrong side of the tensioner.
Do take out all the slack between the crank pulley, the aux pulley and the cam pulley, and then release the tensioner to tighten them up. Then do the two complete turns and check alignment. If things moved, de-tension and try again. You should be able to get enough slack out of the spans to get the belt and sprockets aligned almost perfectly.
The valves will not run into the pistons so should not be damaged if the cam and crankshaft are not timed perfectly, so it should not lose compression if the bits weren't aligned exactly.
tom

 

[RonD]

Spray some gasoline or quick start into intake next time you try to start it
50/50 test

 

[Mach1run]

There must be something else I am missing.

This afternoon I pulled the plug on number 1 and set tdc by feel again. Then took the balancer off to see the shaft and crank sprocket.

The key way is at 12 and I would be hard pressed to get the other pair of timing marks closer.

It didn't look like the key was sheared. The notch on the sprocket is still aligned with the key and groove on the shaft.

I have tried the quick start trick with no luck. Have to look up the 50 50 test.

 

[RonD]

That is the 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine and crank
If it starts and dies you have spark but no fuel delivery, injector or fuel pump issue
If it doesn't start you have no spark or no compression
50/50 instant results

And with crank key way at 12:00 was cam mark at 4:00 or 10:00, either would be correct

 

[Mach1run]

Nuts. will have to double check spark then get a compression gauge and check that. I was sure my timing was jacked. Never the easy fix for me lol.