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Plastic radius arm spacer keeps splitting.


bobbywalter

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Have you tried rubber bushings? Maybe it just needs more give/flex overall.

I was a polyurethane fanboy until later in life, now I opt for rubber.

Not to side track but are your radius arm brackets removable?

I am currently replacing my stock radius arm bushings and am having a heck of a time at the pivot arm end, thinking to grind the rivets to remove the crossmember and just replace w/ bolt and nut after....

you can do that or drop the pivot bolt....or just use two ratchet straps...one side load and one fore/aft
 


lil_Blue_Ford

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If you ask me, stock radius arms are too short from the factory. They just look disproportionately small. Even an inch longer would have made more sense. Full droop they look maxed out on stock suspension.
I would agree that they are kinda stubby. @bobbywalter is right, the F-series has a longer arm stock, but I don’t think they are long enough for the full-size trucks either. I can see how they would work better on a RBV platform though since they are longer than the RBV ones. I’m toying with the idea of long arming my dump truck…

Come to think of it, I think the older straight axle trucks had longer arms than the stubby ones that came with the TTB/TIB on the full size trucks…
 

901wd#2

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Newer 08+ vans have a revised radius arm frame mount. Typical through bolt bushing that you would find on a link end. Not sure if the beam would fit…
 

Eddo Rogue

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I ground off the rivets using various devices (angle grinder w 6" thick cutoff, 4 1/2" flap disc, milwaukee 12v angled and straight die grinders w various cutoff 2"/3" wheels, mini flaps, sanders, carbide bits etc....and a touch of dremel work)

I exaggerate and eventually only needed some of that stuff, but did try them all...

Anyways they came right apart and I happen to have 7/16" hardware that fit perfect to replace the rivets. Ill try to post some pics if my smart is not being stupid.
 

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