• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Plastic radius arm spacer keeps splitting.


holyford86

Some guy with a problem
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,277
Reaction score
830
Age
38
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
Vehicle Year
many
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7
Tire Size
33x12.50R15
I've been running a 6 inch skyjacker lift with extended radius arms for over a decade and I've been having issues with the plastic radius arm spacers cracking (factory ranger part). I've had hose clamps wrapped around them for almost as long as I've had the lift installed and they still crack on occasion. Has anyone come up with a better way or a different spacer to install? Other than this and the shock mounts on the arms cracking, I've had good a good experience for about 13 years and 140k miles with the setup.
 


4x4junkie

Forum Staff Member
TRS Forum Moderator
Article Contributor
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
10,830
Reaction score
647
Location
So. Calif (SFV)
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
35x12.50R15
Hose clamp is what has worked for me and a buddy of mine. Are you able to tighten the clamps tighter?

Probably could make ones from slice of 1- 7/8" I.D. x 2-1/4" O.D. (I think would be the size) steel tubing (would have to come from a metal supply shop, they might have something in their scrap bins you can use).

(couple suggestions anyway)

If you're using the spacers in the position Skyjacker suggests (behind the RA bracket) rather than as a means to push the axle forward, you probably could just forgo them completely, I don't think they're really that important when in that position.

Hope that helps
 

holyford86

Some guy with a problem
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,277
Reaction score
830
Age
38
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
Vehicle Year
many
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7
Tire Size
33x12.50R15
I think I'm going to try swapping to a better hose clamp and see what happens there, if I tighten the ones I am currently using any more, they will strip. I know there are higher torque versions out there that may help the issue.

I've considered making a spacer out of aluminum or steel, glad to hear I wasn't the only one with that idea in my head, I have access to a lathe so that's no problem.

I've also considered taking a piece of thicker wall exhaust tubing and expanding it so there's a slight press fit and pressing a new spacer in to try that.

The lift is un modified with the exception of the home brew shock mounts on the arms and is installed per their instructions. Thank you for the insight, I'll start with the easiest first and go from there.
 

Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
16,748
Reaction score
19,340
Age
60
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
I ditched those spacers long ago. I have a miscellaneous piece at the forward end of the threads to try to push the axle forward. But it’s only 3/16” or 1/4” thick. If I remember, I’ll take a picture later this evening when I get home from work. Thought there was a picture in my build thread. But I don’t see it.
 

Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
16,748
Reaction score
19,340
Age
60
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Here's a picture of my driver side. No plastic spacer.
20220928_081214.jpg
 

svtcards

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
879
Reaction score
157
Age
47
Location
Lyman maine
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3'' front 4''back
Tire Size
245 35 18
Last edited:

svtcards

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
879
Reaction score
157
Age
47
Location
Lyman maine
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3'' front 4''back
Tire Size
245 35 18
I've been running a 6 inch skyjacker lift with extended radius arms for over a decade and I've been having issues with the plastic radius arm spacers cracking (factory ranger part). I've had hose clamps wrapped around them for almost as long as I've had the lift installed and they still crack on occasion. Has anyone come up with a better way or a different spacer to install? Other than this and the shock mounts on the arms cracking, I've had good a good experience for about 13 years and 140k miles with the setup.
Just replaced mine a few weeks ago on my lowered 1st gen.Didnt know them splitting was really N issue until this thread.
 

Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
16,748
Reaction score
19,340
Age
60
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
is there any play in there? Doesn't look to secure?
I noticed when I took the picture this morning, that the bushings aren't compressed much. I'll revisit that over the next week or so. It has been working fine. I wouldntwant it overly tight because that may inhibit droop in my suspension. I like suspension travel. So, they need to be tight enough to hold position. But not so tight that things don't flex.
 

holyford86

Some guy with a problem
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,277
Reaction score
830
Age
38
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
Vehicle Year
many
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7
Tire Size
33x12.50R15
Ended up swapping my cheapo hose clamps for high torque versions (Napa 7051521) that are tightened a bunch more, I'll report back with how that goes.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

Cut & Weld
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
9,220
Reaction score
7,714
Location
Butler, PA, USSA
Vehicle Year
00
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0l
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
4”
Ended up swapping my cheapo hose clamps for high torque versions (Napa 7051521) that are tightened a bunch more, I'll report back with how that goes.
So… did that work? :icon_twisted:
 

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
4,038
Reaction score
2,535
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
Have you tried rubber bushings? Maybe it just needs more give/flex overall.

I was a polyurethane fanboy until later in life, now I opt for rubber.

Not to side track but are your radius arm brackets removable?

I am currently replacing my stock radius arm bushings and am having a heck of a time at the pivot arm end, thinking to grind the rivets to remove the crossmember and just replace w/ bolt and nut after....
 

lil_Blue_Ford

Cut & Weld
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
9,220
Reaction score
7,714
Location
Butler, PA, USSA
Vehicle Year
00
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0l
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
4”
Have you tried rubber bushings? Maybe it just needs more give/flex overall.

I was a polyurethane fanboy until later in life, now I opt for rubber.

Not to side track but are your radius arm brackets removable?

I am currently replacing my stock radius arm bushings and am having a heck of a time at the pivot arm end, thinking to grind the rivets to remove the crossmember and just replace w/ bolt and nut after....
I can’t speak for anyone else, but my F-150 I’ve run both rubber and poly bushings for the radius arm and I’ve blew out a few of those plastic rings. The Ford ones lasted the longest, but any you get now are so old they’re starting to get brittle anyway. Doesn’t seem to matter if the bushing is rubber or poly.

I ground the rivets and removed the radius arm crossmember in both my Choptop and 88, except I never put the bracket back, both got long arms. That’s going to be my move when I rebuild my F-150. Ballistic Joint from Ballistic Fab for the frame end. Adjustable, rebuildable, greaseable and replaceable. Check and Mate.

That all said, yes, you can replace the rivets with bolts and keep stock form. The cheap lifts have you grind the rivets and remove the crossmember to put a spacer in between the crossmember and frame. My 88 I didn’t need to long arm it because I only did 2” lift/level coils, but it’s supposed to improve ride quality and suspension performance even in stock form which makes sense because it allows much freer movement of the axle beams over factory. I haven’t got to test it out with my 88 yet because, well, it’s still a pile of parts. Pretty happy with the long arms and 5” suspension lift in the Choptop though.
 

holyford86

Some guy with a problem
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,277
Reaction score
830
Age
38
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
Vehicle Year
many
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7
Tire Size
33x12.50R15
So… did that work? :icon_twisted:
So far, I haven't split one since. I've done a few pretty tough trails since as well. The plan is to work out an adapter to weld onto the skiyjacker arms to adapt either ballistic joints or Johnny joints to them. The biggest issue I've found with the kit so far is the bottom of the left side beam pivot hooks on stuff and bends.
 

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
4,038
Reaction score
2,535
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
I can’t speak for anyone else, but my F-150 I’ve run both rubber and poly bushings for the radius arm and I’ve blew out a few of those plastic rings. The Ford ones lasted the longest, but any you get now are so old they’re starting to get brittle anyway. Doesn’t seem to matter if the bushing is rubber or poly.

I ground the rivets and removed the radius arm crossmember in both my Choptop and 88, except I never put the bracket back, both got long arms. That’s going to be my move when I rebuild my F-150. Ballistic Joint from Ballistic Fab for the frame end. Adjustable, rebuildable, greaseable and replaceable. Check and Mate.

That all said, yes, you can replace the rivets with bolts and keep stock form. The cheap lifts have you grind the rivets and remove the crossmember to put a spacer in between the crossmember and frame. My 88 I didn’t need to long arm it because I only did 2” lift/level coils, but it’s supposed to improve ride quality and suspension performance even in stock form which makes sense because it allows much freer movement of the axle beams over factory. I haven’t got to test it out with my 88 yet because, well, it’s still a pile of parts. Pretty happy with the long arms and 5” suspension lift in the Choptop though.
If you ask me, stock radius arms are too short from the factory. They just look disproportionately small. Even an inch longer would have made more sense. Full droop they look maxed out on stock suspension.
 

bobbywalter

TRS Technical Staff
TRS Event Staff
V8 Engine Swap
TRS Technical Advisor
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ugly Truck of Month
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
24,692
Reaction score
6,062
Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
If you ask me, stock radius arms are too short from the factory. They just look disproportionately small. Even an inch longer would have made more sense. Full droop they look maxed out on stock suspension.
back when i was doing these regular in the 90s


i ran e series or f series arms with the stock radius arm brackets moved back to the body mount bracket hole and shimmed down to keep caster good.

that combined with 150 springs and 3 degree bushings was a very effective lift for 100 bux you could jump 60 feet and not have a care in the world.....as long as you had good shocks. usually used shock extenders when poor boying it or the donors from the junk yard which limited travel..

kind of lost tech these days
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Today's birthdays

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Truck of The Month


Rick W
October Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Vagabond Video

25th Anniversary Merch

Follow TRS On Instagram

25th Anniversary Sponsors

TRS-3 Ford Ranger Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top