Planning to do full front/rear brake replacement

[RavenRanger01]

Hey gang. So I am looking to do all my brakes for my 2003 Ranger XLT 4X4 SOHC 4.0L V6 in the near future. Now, I do not have a lot of hours clocked doing brake replacements but I think I feel confident in my ability to do so... I am reaching out to see what recommendations or what forewarning some of you may have. Do you recommend a specific brand? Tips?

I know I am new here so bare with me if my posts aren't formatted appropriately.

Thanks!

 

[RonD]

Do one Rear brake at a time, each side has different parts so can not be mixed with the other side
Always put in new rear slaves/wheel cylinders with new shoes, the rest of the stuff can be cleaned and reused

Brake dust is nasty stuff, and messy, have lots of rags and cleaner for the rear

Take pictures as you go, they are FREE, and can be very helpful on reassembly, especially on the rear brakes

Have a friend on hand for bleeding when you are done, or you can bleed each wheel when you are done with it while wheel is still off, makes it easier
Remember to top up brake's master cylinder after bleeding

 

[RavenRanger01]

Okay, thanks for the precaution.

As I am shopping and looking for the Rear Drum Brake Hardware kits they don't seem to specify the intention for either Driver-side or Passenger-side.. I will link some parts I found which I would like some input on before I buy them. The only real discrepency I am finding is that I am seeing 9" and 10" Drums. Do the dimensions correspond with their respective side of the vehicle?

Master Cylinder?
Rear Brake Kit W/ Wheel Cylinder

Oh, and i WILL make sure I have plenty of rags haha...

 

[RonD]

You should have 10" drums on a 4.0l 4x4, but they do look different, the 9" or 10", pictures here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-tech-37/rear-brake-drum-size-135609/

Then have a look at YOUR rear drums

They will be the same on both sides, either both 10" or both 9"

You don't need a Master cylinder

You do need 2 rear wheel cylinders and 2 sets of rear shoes, matching diameter, 9" or 10"

You do need 2 sets of new front pads
Rotors and calipers are optional, but..............if you were feeling a pulsing or shimmy when braking then you have a warped front rotor, and that can be caused by a sticking caliper
In this case you would get 2 new calipers and 2 new rotors along with the new pads

But if brakes felt fine then just get the new pads.


After installing BOTH rear shoes and bleeding, sit in drivers seat, hold out the Parking brake release handle and pump the Parking brake pedal until it gets tight, you can't over tighten it, so pump it until it is stopping at the same place each time.
Rear is now adjusted

 

[gw33gp]

I usually have the rotors and drums turned. If you don't have the time to do this you should at least get new rotors and scuff the drums with emery cloth or something to brake the glaze. Of course, if they are worn past the minimum or can't be turned without going past the minimum, you will have to get new ones. I have never replaced my calipers with 247K miles on them. That doesn't mean they never need to be replaced though.

I always get new front brake hardware in addition to the pads. I use Akebono ACT652 brake pads and have been very happy with them. They normally come with stainless steel hardware. I run Raybestos Super Stop shoes on the rear but they don't make those anymore. I am sure they have something equivalent though.

I had to upgrade the friction material on my Ranger. The 02 has smaller rotors than the 03 and later Rangers. I felt the brakes where marginal, especially for towing. The pads and shoes I use now made a great improvement over the stuff that came from the factory.

 

[19Walt93]

Don't buy cheap brake pads or shoes, they're examples of parts where you should step up. Being in Vt(I'm in NH), you have some unique conditions to deal with. The slide points on the calipers and anchors are no doubt rusty and will need to be cleaned- I use a file to get them smooth and flat- and lubricated, I use copper never-seize but there are other good lubes out there. The caliper pins and the boots they ride in will need to be cleaned-if they're rusty replace them- and lubed with silicone grease. If you use petroleum based grease it will attack the boots and the pins will stick. I clean and lube my caliper slides every year.Where the rear shoes ride on the backing plates will also need to be cleaned and lubed with a thin film, don't over do it. Screw the rear adjusters out, at least most of the way, clean the threads and lightly lube them with never-seize.Even if you don't have to replace anything hydraulic it's a good idea to flush out the brake fluid every couple of years- just be careful not to empty the reservoir and get air in the ABS system or you may need to have the system bled by a shop with a scan tool. You can do this, just pay attention and take your time.

 

[19Walt93]

Also,if you reuse the rotors you should grind the rust ridge off the edges and if you replace them getting them off the hubs may be a struggle but go easy, you don't want to bend the flange under the rotor. We pay an awful price for road salt.