Photos of Head/Valves

[saveatreeeatabeaver]

Hello,

While I've posted a few threads discussing my vehicle troubles. I wanted to post these photos along with what I've learned so far. I had hoped to find a blown head gasket, however that didn't happen.

All my problems started with a poorly running engine. It would idle high and stumble stutter. I felt it occured worse in warm weather, though it was hard to Tell. Over 3+ weeks of occasional use, it got progressively worse until it finally would refuse to start. For days, it would simply turn over, only to fire in one plug after 6-7 rotations.

While changing my intake manifold gaskets, I decided that I was coolant coming from the head gasket (there certainly was coolant leaking...). I collected all the info I could and pulled the head hoping to find a obvious break or leak; I didn't. Instead, I saw "dents" caused by the valves (pictures below). I also saw what appeared to be dried, hard antifreeze plugging a good portion of the antifreeze "ports" in the head. Lastly, bolts pulled from the intake side were covered in oil while bolts from the exaust side were bone dry and worn about half way down.

Can anyone pull a cause from this? I started this project over my head using information online, especially TRS. Thanks for the help so far!

Vehicle is a 1996 Ford Ranger, 2.3 with dual plugs.

The entire album can be viewed at: http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd375/mackbo1an/Ford Ranger Head/

 

[saveatreeeatabeaver]

 

[sfwjesse]

Those arent dents. Those are milled in at the factory....probably for valve clearance so you dont bend your valves if your timing belt breaks. A head gasket could give you some other symptoms like white smoke in the exaust or antifreeze in your oil...not sure how it could give you high idle and no spark. Have you checked things like your sensors...throttle body, coil pack, etc? Check your timing belt...my dads 2.3 had similar symptoms and his had slipped a tooth. You dont have alot of info on the problem here but a head gasket wouldnt have been my first choice.

 

[saveatreeeatabeaver]

Milled at the factory, no shit...

Milled at the factory? While aside from feeling like a dumbass, I'm relieved.

As for my symptoms, I guess I didn't explain myself well enough. The truck originally started to idle high and rough. As the weeks went on, it got progressively worse until it finally refused to start. I'd take plugs out (no small feat with 8), remove the intake, and just generally check for any obvious problems. I was always receiving good pressure at the fuel rail. 2-3 time out of a solid week, I was able to get it going for 2-3 minutes each time. It would start hard, and then quickly start to run more and more rough until it was looping terribly. I'd shut it off and continue to play around. That when i spotted the coolant leaking from the head gasket (no doubt there).

This project has originally started as an opportunity to replace the intake manifold (there was a squeal/hiss/noise coming from that general area. I had originally though bearings were going somewhere, but quickly focused in on the intake based on the noise and rough idle.

I'll start reassembling everything tomorrow and do a compression test and vacuum test as soon as possible. Worst case scenario, I'll have another 100k on the head gasket.

Nothing's a failure if you learn from it. I know more about my truck and the lima than ever before.

Thanks
Russell

Sensors are expensive. I've toyed with a handful (changed PCV, checked most other), however diognotics aren't easily availabe for some

 

[super91(2.3)]

You can see in the top pic that it was burning thru between the 1st and 2nd cylinders. That is common on the 2.3, it happened to me with the same symptoms. Have your head checked to see if it's warped or cracked, and replace it if needed. The gasket won't rip, but it gets thin and acts like a reed bouncing around in there sharing the compression between those 2 cylinders.

 

[saveatreeeatabeaver]

While, I've replaced the head gasket and put everything back together (photos made this job so much easier!).

Upon start up, it revs hard for less than a second and dies (massive vacuum leak?) I started looking for disconnected of broken hoses and found two (egr "pipe" and a 1" long tube coming from the underside of the throttle body. It is important to note that there are two hoses coming from the underside, I'm only curious about the disconnected one.

Upper half of photo is the underside of the upper intake manifold, lower half is the underside of the throttle body. Where does the hose closest to the camera go?

Thanks

 

[tomw]

The one under the throttle body goes to the vapor canister via a hard plastic tube. The other one goes to the PCV valve via a hose looped around the front side of the lower intake manifold and then under the intake to the PCV hung off the oil separator. If you look at the last picture on photobucket, the ovalish shaped can on the near side of the block is the oil separator. The PCV valve is 'in-line' with the large hose from the separator to the underside of the intake manifold.
You did hook up the two red plastic vacuum lines hidden inside the protector on the passenger side, as they would allow extra air into the intake unbeknownst to the ECM.

At least that's how mine is from the factory[1985].
tom

 

[saveatreeeatabeaver]

Thanks tom, you are indeed correct. Would have been easier to spot, however when it pulled out, it fell down the side of the intake and got stuck. While I was pulling/tugging on various hoses, it felt "connected"

Again, thanks.
Russell

 

[sfwjesse]

Is it running good now?

 

[Mark_88]

Looks like the head gasket went through between 3 & 4...assuming the front of the engine is on the left...because that looks like the PCV cannister at the bottom and the exhaust is at the top...

Anyhow, that, I think, is what happened on my first block...and it ran like crap until I replaced the head...

Seems like, from another post, that the head is together again and it is still running like crap...may be timing at this point though...easy enough to mess that up...

 

[saveatreeeatabeaver]

I'll try to keep it to one thread in the future...

Yeah, it's still running poorly, though it is certainly improving. Before yesterday, it refused to start after running for even a few moments. The only thing that's really changed is I've run a compression test (and therefore played with all the plugs and wires) and added seafoam to the vacuum line and tank.

Possible theories (in no specific order):
Timing is incorrect
coil packs
vacuum leak (even though i've already searched everywhere)
Evap canister full/plugged/etc


I'm open to any and all ideas, however today I'm going to try to take it out for a longer drive after unplugging the battery last night (wipe computer).

Thanks guys,
Russell

 

[Duane867]

Air temp sensor could make it run poorly give you crap mileage.
Dirty of bad MAF sensor would do it.. there are a million and one little parts that could cause what you are experiencing. I would highly suggest taking ti to autozome or some where similar the next time it starts and runs long enough to scan the codes. They will do it for free.
Then you will be headed a LOT closer to knowing what is going on with your little mule then guess work.