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Performance 4.0 down on power?


gaz

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Location
Wa, Bremerton 98310
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
87Ranger Endrigo 2.9l, 87BII Endrigo 4.0l
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Ranger 5" (1½" Hiryder/3" body), BII 4" Procomp
Total Drop
Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
Tire Size
Ranger 32"/4:10LS, BII 33"/3:73LS
My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
It only just occurred to me, who's timing set did you install? May be worth one more manufacturer phone call; a new set should only align at zero.
 


limit_explore

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@gaz
i built the truck to race in ultra4 4600 stock class. this class requires us to maintain a factory block that was available for the make/model/year, no turbo no nos. other then that engine mods are unlimited. most everyone else runs a 4.0l Cherokee or a v8 grand Cherokee.

my goal is to have more all around power that is reliable (as silly as that sounds). id love to see 250hp at the wheels, but i am not sure how feasible that is i think 200 is more realistic. i have won a couple races purely on the reliability of the truck, so that is something i dont want to lose.

comp cams does put 4 degrees of advance into the 422, but recommends setting cam timing to 108 degees intake centerline for best performance. right now it measures 97 degrees (11 deg advanced)
as far as timing set i bought an ITM brand
 

gaz

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Location
Wa, Bremerton 98310
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
87Ranger Endrigo 2.9l, 87BII Endrigo 4.0l
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Ranger 5" (1½" Hiryder/3" body), BII 4" Procomp
Total Drop
Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
Tire Size
Ranger 32"/4:10LS, BII 33"/3:73LS
My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
With those flat tops and fast burn heads, I'm using:
• exhaust heat jackets on the headers and H-pipe
• 2 heat ranges lower plugs
• 15" electric fan
• engine oil cooler with remote filter
• all synthetic fluids
• 2 core Explorer automatic radiator
• rear of hood raised ½"

I agree with you, 200hp to the ground with a manual is a huge improvement over the stock setup. After transmission loss the stock is only about 138 @ the wheel.

If you still have it all apart, a complete bottom end balance, will net you an additional 10% efficiency. Also there are 3 different styles of Ford OHV 4.0l connecting rods; one of the three are 60g lighter each!
 

limit_explore

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With those flat tops and fast burn heads, I'm using:
• exhaust heat jackets on the headers and H-pipe
• 2 heat ranges lower plugs
• 15" electric fan
• engine oil cooler with remote filter
• all synthetic fluids
• 2 core Explorer automatic radiator
• rear of hood raised ½"

I agree with you, 200hp to the ground with a manual is a huge improvement over the stock setup. After transmission loss the stock is only about 138 @ the wheel.

If you still have it all apart, a complete bottom end balance, will net you an additional 10% efficiency. Also there are 3 different styles of Ford OHV 4.0l connecting rods; one of the three are 60g lighter each!
im currently running:
-heat wrapped headers and y pipe (actually full exhaust has been wrapped)
-tr55gp plugs but if needed could definitely go to a different one if needed. maybe a quick dyno test for that?
-mechanical fan for the reliability (had a electric fan seize on my explorer while on the rubicon trail, it ended with a blown up radiator tank)
-3 core aluminum 4.0L auto trans radiator

i have the oil filter adapter to install a remote cooler if needed. wonder if i would need the high volume oil pump to efficiently supply a remote cooler and the engine......

believe it or not i am running the a4ld with a stage 3 kit from PATC. so far it has been a solid unit and allows for better rock crawling control since the truck does a combination of rocks and desert when racing. however id bet there is a bit more loss there even in 3rd gear. ive got dual remote coolers and the trans has never seen above 140 degrees.
 

gaz

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Location
Wa, Bremerton 98310
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
87Ranger Endrigo 2.9l, 87BII Endrigo 4.0l
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Ranger 5" (1½" Hiryder/3" body), BII 4" Procomp
Total Drop
Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
Tire Size
Ranger 32"/4:10LS, BII 33"/3:73LS
My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
An engine oil cooler works with either a hi volume or stock replacement Mellings oil pumps; I have used them under both conditions.
 

limit_explore

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My thoughts was needing the high volume pump to push oil 6-8ft to the bed and back (where my trans coolers are mounted)

IMG_5036.jpeg
 

limit_explore

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UPDATE:

parts came in.
new sohc pistons +1mm and ductile rings
all associated gaskets
a berret to measure combustion chamber cc w/stand

pulled heads and measured piston deck clearance. I got a measurement of .002" which means my deck has been milled MAYBE .001"
so unless Super six machined my heads .030-.040 I believe my pushrods are too short. i will be able to tell based off the cc measurement i get today.

now with the sohc pistons having a different compression height, they will stick in the cylinder .023"

question is, should i have my block machined .005 to reduce this?
should i have my heads milled? and if so how much can be removed before i have issues with lower intake manifold alignment?
 

gaz

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
1,499
Reaction score
706
Points
113
Location
Wa, Bremerton 98310
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
87Ranger Endrigo 2.9l, 87BII Endrigo 4.0l
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Ranger 5" (1½" Hiryder/3" body), BII 4" Procomp
Total Drop
Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
Tire Size
Ranger 32"/4:10LS, BII 33"/3:73LS
My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
@limit_explore
I WOULD LEAVE THE BLOCK AS IS
If you are measuring 0.023" clearance, that is a good thing. I recommend using the new pistons with the block as is. You are already going to be in the 11:0 arena with a race duty engine. It's nice to have the free horse power from the compression bump but it does come with a heat penalty.

My oil coolers are nearly 5 feet away from the engine outlet. It was never an issue with either the standard or hi volume Melling pumps. All that extra fluid sure is a bonus.
 

limit_explore

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makes sense. basically where i am at with it.

so next question.. what do you think i should do about pushrod length?
now knowing my heads are not milled (measured at about 50-51cc stock should be 48, but they do bowl work when porting) and my block has not had material removed should i just order the 5.55" everyone runs when swapping in the 422 cam?

my compression ratio with un machined heads, 51cc chambers and flat tops will be 11.1:1 static, including the cam specs it will be 9:1, sounds like ill be running 91 octane from now on
 

limit_explore

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update:
i called arp about rod bolts, the rep was a POS, and told me that they do not have an application for arp rod bolts and the 4.0 but also made sure to mention they receive at least one call a week looking for these bolts. IMO if you were receiving 52 calls a year for these, wouldnt you make and offer a set?

after comparing measurements, a 2.9L rod bolt kit is almost perfect match. so i ordered up a set of them and found they fit fine. .001" larger in diameter then what came out of my rods.

these will be going to my machine shop to ensure they are properly torqued, and re-sized before reinstalling (per arp requirements)
 

gaz

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
1,499
Reaction score
706
Points
113
Location
Wa, Bremerton 98310
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
87Ranger Endrigo 2.9l, 87BII Endrigo 4.0l
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Ranger 5" (1½" Hiryder/3" body), BII 4" Procomp
Total Drop
Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
Tire Size
Ranger 32"/4:10LS, BII 33"/3:73LS
My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
@limit_explore
1) I have a set of ARP rod bolts on my 4.0l piston Rods, I will did up the package and share the part number.
2) I would take the push rod measurement if 100% confident in it with +0.030" length for a reasonable guesstimate on lifter preload but no more than +0.040". If those are not available over the counter, then I would not hesitate to call upon Smith Brothers.

Could get a custom set made by The Smith Brothers or just spend the extra couple dollars and purchase their adjustable push rods...then your engine is set for the 200,000 miles.
 

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