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Passing CA Emissions


projectRanger93

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My '93 had been sitting for some time before I bought it through Copart. After giving it a major tune up (all fluids and filters, spark plugs + cables, water pump, thermostat, fan blade and clutch), including changing out the catalytic converter and muffler, the engine ran and my manual transmission works just fine. I've been fixing all the issues I've found with it thus far (mostly electrical) in order to get the truck ready to go through the smog inspection. Would you guys advise I either check, clean, or replace any other component before taking it in? I haven't touched the MAF sensor or the oxygen sensors. There's no Check Engine light, so not sure what else to check. Any advice welcome.
 


cbxer55

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I thought vehicle 25 years old and up were exempt. They were when I lived there. Maybe they changed that? Glad I don't live there anymore. Don't have to do any of that stuff where I now live. Thank you CARB!!
 
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Clean the MAF if you choose. But if you aren't throwing codes and having no drivability issues... I would say give it a shot. I'm sure they do a visual inspection as well... ensure nothing looks jenky and all parts are there... make it clean and tidy.

I mean what else could you do?
 

projectRanger93

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Thanks guys.

And unfortunately I do. According to the CA DMV site:
"Does my vehicle qualify for a smog exemption?
Smog inspections are required unless your vehicle is:

  • Gasoline powered 1975 year model or older
  • Diesel powered 1997 year model and older or with a Gross Vehicle Weight rating (GVWR) of more than 14,000 lbs
  • Electric
  • Natural gas powered with a GVWR rating of more than 14,000 lbs.
  • Motorcycle"
 

Bill

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The smog inspection usually isn't that big of a deal. If everything is connected and working you will pass. The few exceptions are bad catalytic converters and engines that really need work anyway because the cylinders are getting flooded with oil from bad valve stem seals or bad rings, which also contribute to bad catalytic converters. Bad fuel vapor recovery components also fail sometimes, but you can easily replace those components if needed.
 

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This should have all the information you need to start the process of entering the US as a political refugee:

 

projectRanger93

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Hahaha thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'll probably do a revision of the Oxygen sensors, make sure they're connected. I haven't driven the truck on the road yet since I've been consistently working on it. After I do the power steering flush I'll drive it around the block, see if the Check Engine light gets triggered for whatever reason. Might as well add some Gas Cleaner to clean the fuel injectors.
 

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Bill

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Hahaha thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'll probably do a revision of the Oxygen sensors, make sure they're connected. I haven't driven the truck on the road yet since I've been consistently working on it. After I do the power steering flush I'll drive it around the block, see if the Check Engine light gets triggered for whatever reason. Might as well add some Gas Cleaner to clean the fuel injectors.
So, tell us how the Copart transaction went? How much did you end up paying and how many other bids were you up against?
 

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Arizona has emissions testing requirements too.

http://www.myazcar.com/
Most states do these days, nobody is as strict statewide as CA though. Some parts of PA have tests that are similar to CA, but the limits aren't as strict. The rest of our emissions test program is a joke meant to pacify dirty hippies.
 

projectRanger93

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So, tell us how the Copart transaction went? How much did you end up paying and how many other bids were you up against?
So since I'm in CA, per Coparts rules i had to go through a Broker so that's additional fees off the bat. There were two types of bids, preauction and live, so by the time I entered the live bidding the truck started at around 500. I won at 950, but the seller wasn't ready to let it go at that price. I ended up at 1450. So in addition to my broker fees, + ~500 and coparts dumbass fees, + ~500, I ended with a grand total of ~2400. A lot? Oh yeah, way more than I expected but I was locked at that point. Though I suppose it's all relative no? This was the year I wanted, the body is straight, kinda clean interior, 4x4, all manual so less headache there, only 148k miles, and since it was previously a lifeguard truck it was well maintained by the city. Haven't found another truck like it online since in my general area. After my major tune up it started and moved like a champ, so no gigantic repair cost ultimately.
 

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I'm lost... whats the point of an auction if the seller can still say, "nah I want more than you bid"

And then a grand in fee's... sounds like quite a great scam they got going.
 

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I'm lost... whats the point of an auction if the seller can still say, "nah I want more than you bid"

And then a grand in fee's... sounds like quite a great scam they got going.
Not uncommon to set a reserve, most auctions it is just a no sale of the reserve is not met though.
 

projectRanger93

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235/75-R15
I'm lost... whats the point of an auction if the seller can still say, "nah I want more than you bid"

And then a grand in fee's... sounds like quite a great scam they got going.
That's one of the drawbacks of online auctions, especially Copart's "Sold on Approval."
From their website:
"
Sales Status
Sales Status indicates the current status of the lot. Possible values and their meanings are:

Pure Sale - There is no minimum bid or reserve price. The lot will be awarded to the highest bidder at the close of bidding during the virtual auction
On Approval - Seller has reserved the right to approve the final high bid achieved during the virtual auction. Seller has until 6:00 p.m. PST one business day after the sale to approve the bid. The high bidder is obligated to purchase the vehicle if released by the Seller within the approval period.
Minimum Bid - Seller has placed a reserve price on the lot. If the minimum bid is not surpassed during the virtual auction, Seller has until 6:00 p.m. PST one business day after the sale to accept the bid.

"

Granted if I buy a vehicle in another state that doesn't require a license, i.e. not go through a broker, and if the sale type is a Pure Sale, then i could make out with something way cheaper. But that's how the cookie crumbled for me i guess. Though i should note my broker does the dmv registration, which is included in their fees.
 

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