Papaw's F350 Dually

[scotts90ranger]

Engineer here too... I have no choice but to sleep through heck with the last couple years... hear about people having nothing but money and time over the last two years, I'm pretty sure I gained 20 pounds and am stressed out enough to not remember things I should be remembering... If I remember right I missed out on 4 or 6 days of vacation last year, and that doesn't take into account working more than I'm paid for...

But that said, gotta keep moving! I'm constantly making progress on something, but the ADD and everything takes over and I switch from project to project depending on what "needs" to be done first

 

[ford4wd08]

Chipping away at it little by little. Had to track down some rotors for dual wheeled front hubs, but found some.

Got the driver's side button up with new races, bearings, caliper, brake pads, and brake line. I also got a set of Mike Marker hubs. Seem to be a decent upgrade for the Dana 60 compared to the stock plastic ones.

Going to get the passenger side done tomorrow or by Monday and pull it in the garage this weekend.

 

[ford4wd08]

Finally got it buttoned up on the front brakes.

Ran into some issues trying to bleed the brakes on the rear.

Never could get fluid to come out of the wheel cylinder. Not sure if it is an ABS issue or what?

I believe 87 is the first year of ABS on the rear in the F series.

I'll keep working at it, but did get the front brakes bleed to work for what I need for now.

Was able to pull it in the garage under it's own power, no more tarp!

Now the real work begins again.

 

[ford4wd08]

Making some more progress. Got the bed loose today.

Goal is to make something to support it so I can back the truck up under it and pull it out to work on the body work.

Then the real work begins!

 

[ford4wd08]

And.... We have lift off. I can pull the truck out and work on it or work on the bed and store it all in the garage at the same time.

Flatbed makes life a lot easier when it comes working on truck for sure. I can crawl up under the truck and sit down and work on things.

 

[ford4wd08]

Still working on some things. Decided to check the timing and vacuum on the engine.

So, when I pull the spark port and plug it to set the initial timing at 8 degrees BTDC, the engine seems to do well.

When I plug the port back up it apparently has a 10 in/hg (checked with vacuum gage) on it at idle and my timing bumps up to around 18 to 20 degrees BTDC.

Engine still runs pretty good and highest vacuum like this.

Is this normal on a 460 carbed engine? I would expect the spark port on the Holley 4180 to not have any vacuum at idle.

I followed the procedure under the hood to warm up, plug spark port and then set to 8 degrees BTDC at 800 rpm.

Any thoughts, @19Walt93 or @RonD ?

 

[19Walt93]

If the port has vacuum at idle, it's not the spark port. I think the 4180 spark port is located on the right side of the front metering plate, just like my 4160s are. Once you get that sorted out, disconnect it again and check your centrifugal advance. With a timing light attached, slowly raise the RPMs until the timing doesn't advance anymore. I like to see the centrifugal all in by 2800-3000.

 

[ford4wd08]

If the port has vacuum at idle, it's not the spark port. I think the 4180 spark port is located on the right side of the front metering plate, just like my 4160s are. Once you get that sorted out, disconnect it again and check your centrifugal advance. With a timing light attached, slowly raise the RPMs until the timing doesn't advance anymore. I like to see the centrifugal all in by 2800-3000.

The port is on the passenger side of the carb above the idle adjustment screw. All the stuff I've read said it should be that port.

I think I'm going to pull it and rebuild it soon. I don't think it will hurt anything.

Checked again this evening, with the distributor hooked up to that port st idle it is pulling over 20 degrees of timing. Seems too high to me.

I left it unhooked and plugged the port on the carb for now.

 

[19Walt93]

I'd look close at the metering plate surface and make sure it's not warped. It could have the wrong gasket, too.

 

[RonD]

Vacuum advance can use either Regular vacuum or Ported vacuum, or BOTH
Regular vacuum is below the throttle plate, between plate and cylinders in the intake, it is created by the pistons/cylinders trying to suck in more air than is available when throttle plate is closed

Ported vacuum is above the throttle plate, between plate and air cleaner, it is created by siphon air flow thru, in this case the carburetor's, main air passages

Regular vacuum goes down as throttle is opened
Ported vacuum goes up as throttle is opened

Ported vacuum was used more often on distributors but really depends on the year, engine and distributor

Some years used a temp valve on a coolant passage, had BOTH regular and ported vacuum hoses hooked up, and then a hose to distributor
This was used because choke plate would create a higher Ported vacuum, in a carb, until it opened a bit

You can try either regular or ported vacuum on your warmed up engine to see which gives you better performance

18-20deg BTDC is about right at idle with warmed up engine

 

[ford4wd08]

Decided to finally put an exhaust on this rig. The pipes were vibrating because it was all loose and I thought I would crack a manifold or something.

When it sat in the field for so long, I thought that the tail pipe and the muffler had rusted out and fell...

To my surprise some idiot took a sawzall to it and cut the exhaust loose and stole the muffler... Some druggy must have thought it was a massive catalytic converter and thought they hit the jackpot. But they stole a worthless muffler.

This truck was the one of last Fords made with a non catalyst sticker under the hood. Since it was over 8,000 GVWR rating. So no cat to steal.

Anyhow it was dual exhaust all the way into the muffler and had a flange that connected duals into the muffler. Then it came out single from the muffler.

I ended up cutting out the flange since it was begining to rust out. I got a stainless Y that is dual 2.5" into a 3". Then I went 3" into the muffler and out the to the tail pipe.

I pieced together the kit from eBay and Amazon. I'm pretty happy with it.

I just converted my harbor freight welder over to solid wire with shielding gas and welded up the system. I haven't welded in a while. But I think I did ok and got it all buttoned up.

Went with a flowmaster 50 series, sounds pretty good and much quieter than right of the manifolds.

 

[ford4wd08]

I pulled the carb today to do a rebuild. I believe this is a replacement carb already and I'm trying to track down a rebuild kit. I got one on Rock Auto already and I'm not impressed. I would rather have a NOS Motorcraft or a Holley.

Part number stamped into the air horn is 80457-2 and looks like a SN of 2919? Looks like it was maybe a replacement from Holley?

I did find this NOS kit on eBay, but not sure it is correct.

Ford F0pz-9a586-h Carb Carburetor Kit Holley 4180c Aka Ct-1443-d OEM NOS for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ford F0pz-9a586-h Carb Carburetor Kit Holley 4180c Aka Ct-1443-d OEM NOS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I'm not completely against replacing this carb either if it makes more sense, just trying to get it to run as well as I can.

Future plans might be a new intake manifold and straight up timing set and maybe a cam, but I'm going to fix everything else before I dive into engine mods. Just want it to run well until I fix everything else.

@19Walt93 any advice? I've read this emissions tuned carb can be difficult to tune at times.

 

[ford4wd08]

Looks like this would work as a Holley replacement.

Holley 0-80457S 600 CFM Street Warrior Carburetor

Holley has been the world leader in carburetors for over 100 years. We are proud to announce the newest member of our carburetor family- the Street Warrior. The goal in designing the Street Warrior was to take all of those years of experience and build the ultimate performance street carburetor...

www.holley.com

 

[ford4wd08]

Looks like this is already a replacement carb from Holley vs the 4180C with a little more research.

Sounds like the rebuild kit I need is Holley 37-119 and I got one on order.

As to my timing question, asked some guys on another forum and they said the vaccum routing goes through thermal vaccum switches on the coolant hoses/passages. I know what those are now and they're definitely unhooked.

One I get my carb rebuilt, I'll look into getting the vaccum lines fixed. They're aren't too many on this rig.

 

[Shran]

I've never had good luck with Holley carbs. My old 460 truck had a Carter AFB on it and it was kinda sticky and weird but ran OK, figured I had a good Holley on the shelf from another 460 truck that I junked...so I rebuilt that... and it was a horrible downgrade. It would backfire through the exhaust under a light load and had no power. Must have messed with all that junk inside it for hours and had no improvement, never did figure it out but in the meantime I put a kit in the Carter and put that back on. Happy as a clam, ran better than it ever did. Was still pretty cold blooded, that seems to be the nature of the Edelbrock/Carter world?