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Painting over rust (e.g. frame)

Fast Eddie

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I thought I recalled reading a thread in this forum that discussed painting over rust, particularly on a frame. I need to replicate that process but can't find the original thread. I tried pain+rust, and paint+rust+frame in the the search tool but it's not 'anding' the search terms. Instead, it just looks for the words and shows all/any thread that may contain one of the words.

Does anyone recall the paint that person used, how to properly specify the search criteria and/or remember the thread I'm referencing?
Thanks.
 


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Por15
Paint Over Rust 15
I don't know the exact thread but do remember there is one.
 

Fast Eddie

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Por15
Paint Over Rust 15
I don't know the exact thread but do remember there is one.
Thank you very much. I did see that but it was introduced as a prep agent, not a finish agent? I may have misunderstood. Let me search for it and read it again.

I picked this off their website so it looks like a multi-step process and not what I thought.

" Will rust come through POR-15?
You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal."

and

"APPLYING POR-15 TO SEASONED OR RUSTED METAL
First, wire brush loose rust and scale. Then remove any grease or oil with POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and etch with POR-15 Metal Prep.
DO NOT USE SOLVENT BASED CLEANERS."
 
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Fast Eddie

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I did find something that claims to do what I sought: AGS AOR-128. Quite expensive if you ask me...
 

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Any of those "Paint Over Rust" products require surface prep.

From AGS website

Preparation and Application Instructions:

  • Use a wire brush to remove loose rust, grease, and paint, make sure the surface is free of debris.
  • If necessary use a mild solvent to remove greases and oils that could affect adhesion.
 

19Walt93

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I've used a lot of POR 15, just hit it with a wire brush to get rid of the loose stuff and brush it on. WEAR GLOVES, if you get it on skin it's near impossible to get it off. Eastwood has a similar product but I haven't used it, I've used Wurth's coating back when I had access to a Wurth salesman and it worked good too.
 

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It took weeks to wear off my hands, I coated my rear frame 5 years ago and its still holding up great. I even used por 15 on a rusty ‘46 2N ford tractor before.
 
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Lefty

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I wrote about POR 15 earlier this year.

I removed the bed and media blasted the loose rust off the exposed frame. POR 15 does recommend a surface prep. i used.that too. I crawled under the front end to paint the rest. the guys are right about wearing gloves. POR 15 sets up fast. It is better to purchase the product in small cans (1/2 pint) as opposed to larger quart size. I'm pretty sure it will also last a long time. Here's some of the fotos.
 

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19Walt93

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I wrote about POR 15 earlier this year.

I removed the bed and media blasted the loose rust off the exposed frame. POR 15 does recommend a surface prep. i used.that too. I crawled under the front end to paint the rest. the guys are right about wearing gloves. POR 15 sets up fast. It is better to purchase the product in small cans (1/2 pint) as opposed to larger quart size. I'm pretty sure it will also last a long time. Here's some of the fotos.
I agree, they sell a six pack of small cans that cost more than a big can but it's a better deal unless you're going to use the whole big can in a day or two. You need a stick of dynamite to get the lid off a can that has been opened before. I didn't use their surface prep and it worked fine, I highly recommend their thinner for cleaning up after use- nothing else cuts it.
 

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Rustoleum rust reformer.
 

19Walt93

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I've used POR 15 and Eastwood encapsulator. Paint eventually bubbled up with Eastwood on my beetle. I have used POR on many restorations and have not had rust come back through. Use marine clean and the metal prep. I apply the topcoat just before the POR15 completely dries, just when you leave a glove print, but it doesn't transfer to the glove. Way less work than having to sand every nook and cranny.

Wear a respirator and ventilate the area! Seriously! I was dumb and sprayed the stuff without a respirator for a long time and one-day it caught up with me. I was spraying parts in a legitimate paint booth with a respirator and started having a bad reaction where I couldn't breathe. Now, years later I still have the same reaction. The smallest drop on the skin make me swell up and itch. Other paints don't bother me.

A heat gun scraper and paint thinner work great to remove the tar coating from the frame. A needle scaler works works great for loosening up rust. Clean,clean, POR process, and top coat. I used 3m paintable undercoating for a top coat. It is not tar based so it actually dries.
 

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Eddo Rogue

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No thanks. If I liked Rustoleum 100% more I'd still say it sucks.
Interesting, why so? and what is your preferred brand of rattle can for metal?
 

Lefty

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Rustoleum rust reformer.
also a very good product. Rustoleum also sells a better product called rust encapsulator. I believe POR 15 is te
 

Lefty

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Interesting, why so? and what is your preferred brand of rattle can for metal?
I once had a can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It seemed to be okay for smaller projects or spraying into hard-to-reach places. I would not recommend it for something like the frame.
 

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