Painless wire harness for 5.0l efi swap into 1980s ranger

[svtcards]

has anyone ever used a painless wiring harness to do a 5.0l efi swap into an 1980s ranger?they swear up and down they can make a harness for any application.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I used the Ron Francis Telorvek system when installing my 1992 Thunderbird 5.0 (same as the SN95, 94-95 Mustang engines, but forged pistons) in my 87 Ranger. I used a Foxbody A9P computer and MAF. I can't recommend that harness enough. Awesome quality stuff. Each wire is printed with writing describing what it's for. The wire lengths are so long, you can run the harness anywhere you desire and still have 10-15ft of wire left over. It's one of the more expensive options, but in my opinion, it's WELL WORTH THE EXTRA CASH.

The only thing I wish I did differently, is I should have bought one or two 40 pin Delphi connectors to make the harness easy to separate should I ever need to pull the engine quickly. Something like this:

This is with the harness already ran in to the cab, and the computer placed where I wanted it. The wires are that long!

This shows where I mounted the entire system: A9P EEC, fuel pump relay and inertia switch, and Telorvek panel. I made a custom steel bracket to hold the computer to my aluminum mounting bracket:

This harness is looooong!

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Something to keep in mind is what computer and what type of distributor you want to run. This Telorvek system needs a Foxbody computer and a distributor with the ignition module mounted to it.

I just finished a conversion to relocate my TFI (ign module) to the core support so it wouldn't overheat and go to shit like all distributor-mounted Ford ignition modules seem to do.. I used the "closed bowl" type of distributor from the SN95 Mustang (or 92 Thunderbird) for a cleaner conversion. That style of distributor has an 8 pin plug on it that allows the conversion to be much cleaner than other TFI relocations I've seen that leave crimp on terminals hanging out of the distributor, and a wide-open gaping hole in the side of the distributor where the TFI module used to live..

I called Ron Francis and had a talk with them about which parts I had, and what I needed to get to run their system.. I suggest you do the same.

 

[Dirtman]

I can see why @rusty ol ranger prefers carburetors...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Painless? Now this is painless. Fuel line, 4 bolts, throttle cable/choke....done

 

[Dirtman]

Painless to run, not painless to run CORRECT. How many people left still know the art of jet sizes, tapers, needles, etc and actually taking a carb to the track and getting that thing perfect. Most people that still use carbs just slap it on and go. Every carb needs some fiddling even if you replace it with an oem one.

Carbs are an art. Efi is a science.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Painless to run, not painless to run CORRECT. How many people left still know the art of jet sizes, tapers, needles, etc and actually taking a carb to the track and getting that thing perfect. Most people that still use carbs just slap it on and go. Every carb needs some fiddling even if you replace it with an oem one.

Carbs are an art. Efi is a science.

This is true.

Its just whichever one youre better at really. Im better with a scewdriver then a sodering iron.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Damn, he can't even spell soldering iron correctly. His hatred of electronics has impaired his ability to spell.

That's a new one. lol

Too many fuel fumes from over-rich carbs maybe?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I can see why @rusty ol ranger prefers carburetors...

Every single one of those wires has very clear printing on it that tells you what sensor it goes to, and the instruction manual tells you what terminal it hooks to on the Telorvek panel. Couldn't be any easier. Unless you can't read..

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Damn, he can't even spell soldering iron correctly. His hatred of electronics has impaired his ability to spell.

That's a new one. lol

Too many fuel fumes from over-rich carbs maybe?

Yeah yeah yeah.

....since i misspelled "solder" then obviously i cant read and you now know why those labeled wires would be of no use to me.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Calm down man. It's all an ongoing joke based on people's preferences on carb vs efi, being anti-electronics, etc..

I'm sure it was a typo...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Calm down man. It's all an ongoing joke based on people's preferences on carb vs efi, being anti-electronics, etc..

I'm sure it was a typo...

Lol i know.

I didnt take it serious.

 

[svtcards]

Something to keep in mind is what computer and what type of distributor you want to run. This Telorvek system needs a Foxbody computer and a distributor with the ignition module mounted to it.

I just finished a conversion to relocate my TFI (ign module) to the core support so it wouldn't overheat and go to shit like all distributor-mounted Ford ignition modules seem to do.. I used the "closed bowl" type of distributor from the SN95 Mustang (or 92 Thunderbird) for a cleaner conversion. That style of distributor has an 8 pin plug on it that allows the conversion to be much cleaner than other TFI relocations I've seen that leave crimp on terminals hanging out of the distributor, and a wide-open gaping hole in the side of the distributor where the TFI module used to live..

I called Ron Francis and had a talk with them about which parts I had, and what I needed to get to run their system.. I suggest you do the same.

i contacted painless and they said i had to change my distributor as well but couldn't tell me which 1 to use.but sounds like u used the distributor of the donor car i currently have.so will i have to change distributor if i already have a 1995 gt?painlesses harness is about 515.00 for there stand alone harness for my 1995 donor.what did yours cost?also how do u know where to wire in the new harness u bought into truck?did u have a wiring diagram on how to do that?it seems like your wiring will be pretty close to what im looking for.

 

[svtcards]

Something to keep in mind is what computer and what type of distributor you want to run. This Telorvek system needs a Foxbody computer and a distributor with the ignition module mounted to it.

I just finished a conversion to relocate my TFI (ign module) to the core support so it wouldn't overheat and go to shit like all distributor-mounted Ford ignition modules seem to do.. I used the "closed bowl" type of distributor from the SN95 Mustang (or 92 Thunderbird) for a cleaner conversion. That style of distributor has an 8 pin plug on it that allows the conversion to be much cleaner than other TFI relocations I've seen that leave crimp on terminals hanging out of the distributor, and a wide-open gaping hole in the side of the distributor where the TFI module used to live..

I called Ron Francis and had a talk with them about which parts I had, and what I needed to get to run their system.. I suggest you do the same.

also how much lower did the v8 drop the front of your truck?and did u use regular v6 springs to hold it up?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

i contacted painless and they said i had to change my distributor as well but couldn't tell me which 1 to use.but sounds like u used the distributor of the donor car i currently have.so will i have to change distributor if i already have a 1995 gt?painlesses harness is about 515.00 for there stand alone harness for my 1995 donor.what did yours cost?also how do u know where to wire in the new harness u bought into truck?did u have a wiring diagram on how to do that?it seems like your wiring will be pretty close to what im looking for.

You'll need a distributor with the TFI module on the side of it. A Foxbody type distributor. I think most, if not all of their harnesses require that type of distributor. My Telorvek harness wasn't bought specifically for a 94-95 Mustang engine though.

When you get the harness, it'll be labelled clearly what wire hooks to what. After all of the sensors are hooked up, they'll be a few wires left. One will hook to ground, and a couple for constant power directly from the battery. It's really easy.

I bought new coil springs from Rockauto for an extended cab 4x4 with the 4.0 V6. The first ones I bought I thought the truck could stand to be a little higher, so I bought the next heavier set from Rockauto and installed those. They only raised the truck another 1/4" - so it was hardly worth the trouble. If I were you, I'd just install the engine and wait until the test drive to see how low it ends up.

I do suggest that you hop on Ebay and buy an EVTM book (electrical and vacuum troubleshooting guide) for your year of truck. They're very nice to have! They show every circuit in the truck and give you wire colors, connector locations, etc..