only running with it floored

[jblueovalfan23]

this poor ranger... i've always wanted a little pup truck to put around in. i haven't a real need for my fullsize truck, i decided to downsize. i bought truck not running from a relative. i've gotta admit i lost a bit of respect for this man after this. said it only needed a flywheel and starter. he bought after it sat for a few years. had a blown head gasket. at this point, it would easier to list what he done and i've done i think. he's slipping i think. he put new plugs, wires, a coil pack, fuel pump, head gasket, radiator, starter, flywheel and he "fixed" the filler neck. can't be much wrong after that but he wrecked the flywheel using the new starter he destroyed the bendix on. i bought it from him with the knowledge i only needed to fix the starter/flywheel problem and the filler neck needed more work. i got it and put the other coil pack on it and got it running long enough to get it home. i ended up putting a new timing belt in, it wasn't timed right, off a tooth, i addressed the filler neck problem, i also put and iac valve and fuel filter (helped more than anything, think it was original) on it and of course that flywheel/starter (used his warranty for those). i also found he must have used the wrong plug wire diagram because that was causing it to kick back on the starter (exhaust plugs firing against it when the valves were closed). it turns over fine now. i finally worked up the nerve to give it a drive after trying it randomly for a couple days. it ran great for a bit. put some gas in it and it was acting funny when i fired it up. i also noticed the transmission light wasn't working hitting the o/d button several times didn't do a thing. i thought i smelled burnt electronics just before i got gas. that smell quickly came and left so i assumed it just in the area we dove past. the transmission done nothing funny either. the engine though, it started running fine and then flat on it's face. that's my big issue. i took it straight home and in a few minutes of driving, it started backfiring through the exhaust and i had to hold it to the floor to keep it running. lost all power, it acted much like my old truck did when the ignition module went bad. i'm gonna buy a code reader on friday to see if it has any codes but i'm leaning towards the computer going bad. i was just hoping for some input from someone more experienced than myself with more advanced engine control. it's dumping fuel in it like crazy to, it stinks of gas when running. almost forgot, it's a 96 2.3 auto. sorry about the wall of text, just being thorough. thanks.

 

[adsm08]

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator for a ruptured diaphragm? This will dump fuel into the vacuum system, and thus the intake.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

And maybe o2 sensors are old.

PS; originally I was going to respond to your title with "what's wrong with that?" in a reference to my forum name....I controlled myself....

 

[RonD]

When any computer controlled engine is started cold it is said to be running in Open Loop

Open Loop means the computer is using pre-set air/fuel mix tables, in this case for your 2.3l engine

After a few minutes of running the coolant/engine will warm up and computer will start to use all the sensors, like the O2 sensor on the exhaust
Computer is now in Closed Loop, Closed Loop means the computer is calculating the air/fuel mix "on the fly" using MAF(mass air flow) sensor and O2 sensor.

If engine runs better cold then starts to act up warm then computer is getting bad data
Sensors rarely fail, but are often replaced, lol
Vacuum leaks, fuel leaks, wire connectors are more often the issues
Most sensors can be tested.
MAF sensor should be cleaned every few years if not yearly
O2 sensor is the exception, no static test for it, but it should be replaced every 100k miles in normal operation, if a Rich condition exists for any length of time it will ruin an O2 sensor

Computer switches back to Open Loop at WOT(wide open throttle) regardless of engine temp, the point of Closed Loop is best fuel economy and engine efficiency.
It is assumed that when a driver pushes the gas pedal to the floor MPG is not his concern, lol
So pre-set "more power" air/fuel mix is used from Open Loop tables, sensors are ignored.
If warm engine runs better at WOT then that would point to sensor and maybe computer issue

Engine computer failure is rare, not never, but very very low on the list of possible problems


+1 on FPR(fuel pressure regulator) leaking, it has a vacuum hose attached, check vacuum hose for gasoline

 

[sheltonfilms]

I'm placing my bet on the coolant temp sensor. I bet it's at open circuit which makes the computer think the engine is -40 degrees. Makes it the computer dump massive amounts of fuel into it.


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[jblueovalfan23]

it's not running right when floored, just barely in fact. i wouldn't doubt the temperature unit isn't 100% i seen it jumping on the gauge. that's a very real possibility i think. i'll check that in a bit. no tear in the regulator either. i'll try cleaning the maf while i'm at it. kinda have trouble raining today off an on. that darned taurus got me fired up trying to get the tie rod end loose. about knocked it off the stand torquing it. some stooge had to have sat on it with an impact gun, i don't have one either. anyway i'll head out there in bit and see what i can figure out. thanks i'll post back later.

 

[sheltonfilms]

it's not running right when floored, just barely in fact. i wouldn't doubt the temperature unit isn't 100% i seen it jumping on the gauge. that's a very real possibility i think. i'll check that in a bit. no tear in the regulator either. i'll try cleaning the maf while i'm at it. kinda have trouble raining today off an on. that darned taurus got me fired up trying to get the tie rod end loose. about knocked it off the stand torquing it. some stooge had to have sat on it with an impact gun, i don't have one either. anyway i'll head out there in bit and see what i can figure out. thanks i'll post back later.

If it's jumping it sounds like you could have an intermittent connection. Turn the key on, have someone watch the gauge, and start wiggling the wires at the sensor.


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[RonD]

Your first post says "only running with it floored", then in above post "it's not running right when floored, just barely in fact", so which is it, lol

Dashboards temp gauge SENDER on the engine isn't used by the computer

Computer uses a 2 wire SENSOR for coolant/engine temp, and that could cause Rich running as sheltonfilms pointed out

SENDER on the 2.3l should be drivers side of block towards the back
Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/7d/27//small/0900c15280077d27.jpg

ECT sensor was move around on the 2.3l, it was towards the front of the block same side as sender just under intake manifold
Also on heater hose close to engine hook up

A Sensor ALWAYS has 2 wires
A Sender usually has 1 but later years did have 2

 

[jblueovalfan23]

Ok i finally got around to giving a follow up. Code on the scanner is p1131. Internet is has been acting up the past few days. Sorry about the delay. Ron, sorry i wasn't clear about it. Cleaned the map and maf sensors i believe, the 2 on the air intake. Made a significant difference. Still missing but it really seemed to help. I'm sure it needs plugs so after that. It was getting better but still missing and back firing. I don't expect that to solve anything but it can't hurt. I'll do that later after it cools down. I got some more technical data from that scanner, impressed for $20 at walmart. I'll post them if i can get my internet working here. The modem i think is going bad. Not important. Got a reading on the temp of 192f according to the scanner. It says fuel system1 fault, the code p1131 and load pci 95.7. I'm not sure what to make of it really. I'm thinking it might have failed to get a reading on the air and or to much of a reading and overflowed the gas.

 

[jblueovalfan23]

here's an update finally. got the fund together to get a fuel pressure test kit and compression test kit. found a bad injector, a dead cylinder and almost dead cylinder. turned the motor found more resistance in places with the plugs out. i'd image the bottom end is trashed to. i didn't bother to mess with a rebuild. i found a killer deal on another motor. it fires up every time now and runs smooth as a one can expect. i'm please with that motor. had it up about a week and noticed the transmission is acting funny and i'm thinking it's done. p0741 i believe, flaring between gears and slipping with an occasional squeal what i get for buying something i can't test drive i suppose. found out the guy who parked it with a bad head gasket was a guy i went to school. if i knew that guy had that poor little truck i would have walked on the deal. i would have expected that b/s. it's down to attempt a rebuild on that auto in it, never done on and know no one personally who has, or covert it to a stick. i've done that in older stuff and it seems similar but i'd need a computer flashed and manual wiring harness in addition to the list of stuff i'd need. so, any votes? what do you guys think would be best? i'm not picky either way.

 

[Mark_88]

I would have to vote for the M5OD swap on the transmission...if you can find a complete truck with 2.3 and manual transmission I would say go for the whole thing at once...and grab the pedals and clutch master with it and dump the whole thing in there...

Only minor difference is the auto transmission shift indicator and whatever linkage involved...so if you get the whole truck...swap in the steering column parts...

Better yet...buy a working whole truck and part out the old one...

Decisions...decisions...