One more minor irritating problem.

[Alan_nc]

First thanks to all for putting up with my questions:
94 3.0, Auto,
Runs great, starts right up.

But: in 30 minutes of town driving it will die once at a light or stop sign (starts right up again with no problem).

I have:
Changed IAC and Temp sensor, air filter, fuel filter - drained old gas and put in new.
Cleaned MAF and EGR
Traced, cleaned, renewed vacuum lines (running at 19 now)
Run a fuel pressure test - reading was right in range
Temp gage sits at about 1/8 of the way up no matter how long you drive.
Done quick computer reset

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated .

 

[sheep herder]

Temp gauge should go higher. Have you done anything to the cooling system? Thermostat may be stuck open. Don't really think that has anything to do with it stalling though.

 

[RonD]

Does it die right when stopping or after stopping and just sitting while still in gear?
Just wondering if torque convert is unlocking fully

You can try shifting to Neutral just before stopping to see if that matters

Your temp SENDER, or thermostat is bad, if gauge doesn't show just below 1/2 after full warm up
Wouldn't cause a stall though
Temp sender will have just 1 wire connected, red/white stripe wire
If you Ground that 1 wire and then turn on the key, the gauge should go to HOT, that tests if the wire and gauge are OK


The IAC Valve needs to be Motorcraft or Hitachi brand, 3rd party don't seem to work reliably with Ford computers
The computer shouldn't let the engine die, it uses IAC Valve to prevent that from happening

You can do this to set no stall idle backup, but doesn't solve the problem
After engine is fully warmed up and idling
Unplug the IAC Valve, it should close and in your case engine should stall
If RPMs don't drop then you could have a vacuum leak, small one

If engine does stall, look on the throttle linkage for a screw, looks like an idle screw but its not, fuel injection can't use an idle screw, no idler Jets
It is the anti-diesel screw, after engine stalls turn that screw a 1/2 turn clockwise(tighten)
Restart engine IAC still unplugged
See if it will idle, at about 650-700 or so
Adjust screw so warm engine will idle at about 700 with no IAC Valve
Plug IAC Valve back in and idle should go up to 750-800

 

[Alan_nc]

I'll try both suggestions. Trans does seem to shift fine but that really doesn't mean anything about the torque converter.

 

[RonD]

Torque converters locking and unlocking was one reason automatic MPG was so bad compared to manual trans
They would finally lock up at highways speeds
The First solenoid added to automatics was the TCC(torque converter control) solenoid, it will lock the torque converter sooner so better MPG and power
Your 1994 has TCC and 3/4 solenoids, 3/4 is for shifting to OD

You are correct you should notice shifting issues if TCC was acting up

 

[ericbphoto]

You stop too much.

 

[Alan_nc]

Update:
Warmed her up good, disconnected the IAC, idle dropped way down but engine did not stall, turned screw in about 1/4 turn which brought the idle up quite a bit, plugged the IAC back in which raised it just slightly.
Did not get a chance to drive much. Probably need to do a re-learn on the computer before doing anything else.