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On my 3rd Ranger, Humble Auto Idiot, Here to Learn


MrChuck2000

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Messages
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Age
63
Location
90039
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Howdy. I've somehow made it to the age of 61 with only the barest of knowledge about auto maintenance and repair. I love my 2004 5-speed manual 3.0L V6 Ranger XLT (130,000mi.), but it's an ignorant kind of love. I'm ready for some learnin'. Talk slow; I'm dumb.
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

You have a 3.0l Vulcan engine, very reliable, used in Fords from 1986 to 2008, 1991-2008 in Rangers
This is a HIGH RPM engine, so makes best power at 3,500rpm, instead of 2,500rpm like most V6 or V8 engines
So don't be afraid to get the RPMs up to get best power and MPG, if you are under 3,000rpm you are "lugging" this engine, lol

You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, also very reliable, only use Self Adjusting pressure plate when installing a new clutch

2004 was the first year Rangers a got Digital Dash(HEC), also first year for the SJB(smart junction box) which is the Body Computer, its behind cab fuse box in passenger kick panel

1999 and up Rangers have PATS(passive anti-theft system) so can only be started using a "transponder" key that the PATS recognizes, so you NEED to have a spare key or you will be dead in the water when you lose your one working key, no work around for this, no temp start, tow truck

Unfortunately 2004-2006 3.0l Rangers had a TSB about recessed exhaust valve seats, there were some bad seats that made their way into 3.0l heads, and it's way past warranty, lol
If you start to get misfire codes, first thing to do is to test compression on all cylinders, to see if lower compression in some cylinders is the issue so you don't waste time or money on non-fixes
At 130k miles its probably had the new heads installed or got good seats, so just a heads up

And at 130k the O2 sensors need to be changed if they haven't been, they last 100k miles or 12 years, they run out of chemicals, ONLY sensor that wears out
MPG starts to go down after that, slowly but SURELY, and eventually you will get O2 codes, after you have spent at least $500 on extra fuel, lol, so they pay for themselves if you change them on time

Good tool to have is a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, $15, ELM327 is fine
You can read and clear codes, but also view Live Data that the computer "sees" from sensors
Can be very helpful, assuming you have a smart phone, that's what you see the codes or data on
These work on ANY vehicle sold in the US or Canada since 1996, its the LAW, so not a Ranger thing or even a Ford thing, ANY vehicle 1996 and newer
 
Last edited:

89Twincharge

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What he said.... Welcome to the bes
ranger forum ever
 

MrChuck2000

New Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2021
Messages
12
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Age
63
Location
90039
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Welcome to TRS :)

You have a 3.0l Vulcan engine, very reliable, used in Fords from 1986 to 2008, 1991-2008 in Rangers
This is a HIGH RPM engine, so makes best power at 3,500rpm, instead of 2,500rpm like most V6 or V8 engines
So don't be afraid to get the RPMs up to get best power and MPG, if you are under 3,000rpm you are "lugging" this engine, lol

You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, also very reliable, only use Self Adjusting pressure plate when installing a new clutch

2004 was the first year Rangers a got Digital Dash(HEC), also first year for the SJB(smart junction box) which is the Body Computer, its behind cab fuse box in passenger kick panel

1999 and up Rangers have PATS(passive anti-theft system) so can only be started using a "transponder" key that the PATS recognizes, so you NEED to have a spare key or you will be dead in the water when you lose your one working key, no work around for this, no temp start, tow truck

Unfortunately 2004-2006 3.0l Rangers had a TSB about recessed exhaust valve seats, there were some bad seats that made their way into 3.0l heads, and it's way past warranty, lol
If you start to get misfire codes, first thing to do is to test compression on all cylinders, to see if lower compression in some cylinders is the issue so you don't waste time or money on non-fixes
At 130k miles its probably had the new heads installed or got good seats, so just a heads up

And at 130k the O2 sensors need to be changed if they haven't been, they last 100k miles or 12 years, they run out of chemicals, ONLY sensor that wears out
MPG starts to go down after that, slowly but SURELY, and eventually you will get O2 codes, after you have spent at least $500 on extra fuel, lol, so they pay for themselves if you change them on time

Good tool to have is a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, $15, ELM327 is fine
You can read and clear codes, but also view Live Data that the computer "sees" from sensors
Can be very helpful, assuming you have a smart phone, that's what you see the codes or data on
These work on ANY vehicle sold in the US or Canada since 1996, its the LAW, so not a Ranger thing or even a Ford thing, ANY vehicle 1996 and newer
Hello! A VERY belated thank you for the welcome and for all that info. I'm right at 130000mi., so I will get right on changing out that 02 sensor. I'm currently having a fairly involved problem with my trucks 5speed transmission, gonna post about it in the proper area, but I'dlove to get your 2 cents! Thanks, CL
 

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