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? on bolt patterns


danger132ranger

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quick question i got a 96 ranger with the ttb ifs crap and am wanting to put the solid axle from my 90 jeep cherokee under it but wondering if the bolt patterns are the same? both are coil suspension and know what im gonna have to fab to get to work just want to know if i need to get adaptor parts or get new axles with the right bolt patter.:icon_confused:
 


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yes.

i'm gonna prepare you.... you might get flamed for wanting to do the d30. and remember the 30 is a live axle, no hubs..

maybe you should look into setting up the ttb right, and you could possibly love it. if you look thru my build thread, i was gonna do a xj sas hp d30... but decided not to when i did some learning about ttb's...

look thru my build for info---- and escort_gts', and kroussinoffroads.. and a couple others for d30 swaps. and bryan's, but i can't remember what his screen name is. all done w/ rusty's xj long arms or ironman fab's longarms... its not THAT hard honestly. between the premade long arms and some ruffstuff parts. you can make it happen easily.

what's your issue w/ the ttb, i'm sure it could be worked out w/ the proper knowledge... just a thought. if you're set on sas'ing it, go for it. take lots of pics and do a build thread on it!!!
 
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danger132ranger

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oh well one the camber is way out and cant be adjust any more unless i cut a loop out of the coils, lol i think that would fix but no idea and it has warn hubs already. it doesn't flex at all besides letting the wheel drop, clearance issues and mostly just want to have a solid axle ranger since no one else does in my town lol i do plan on building the d30 a little with a arb locker and higher gears and bigger disc brakes but thank you for the info. what all did u do to the ttb?
 

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you want to do an SAS, but you can't google or look for yourself and see that the bolt patterns are clearly the same....
 

dangerranger83

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Im the one refered to as Bryan, my build thread link (say click me down there) shows all of my D30 swap and then some.


Oh and my screen name is up there somewhere....
 

danger132ranger

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yeah that is why i joined this site get better advise and quicker answers and i will get pics soon just got a new grill and wheels for it.
 

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Dangerranger! That's it! Haha

As at as what my setup will be, as has been proven to work by others

Good brackets-- vms true bracket. No drop plate.
Good steering-- legoms has all the info there. Mine will be superrunner steering. Swapped over to 1 ton TRE's and junk later.
Softer coils-- xj coils! 6" lift. 140 ppi.
Extended radius arms-- with Johnny joint at end.
F250 shock towers for longer shocks.
Manual lockouts. Obvious to why you want these.

Maybe a jeep d35 limited slip carrier to have limited slip. If not that, maybe a locker one day. But who knows about that one.
 

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oh well one the camber is way out and cant be adjust any more unless i cut a loop out of the coils, lol i think that would fix but no idea and it has warn hubs already. it doesn't flex at all besides letting the wheel drop, clearance issues and mostly just want to have a solid axle ranger since no one else does in my town lol i do plan on building the d30 a little with a arb locker and higher gears and bigger disc brakes but thank you for the info. what all did u do to the ttb?
All of those issues are easily kickable to the curb (well, maybe aside from the "others in your town having them" part lol).
TTB is not like A-arm IFS, it is possible to work with it in most of the same ways you would solid axles, even on a budget. You might want to take a look at some TTB builds here before writing it off as crap (I've had mine on some of the better trails you'd typically find only solid axled rigs on and it seems to work fine for me). I will say it is less forgiving if you try to cut corners on it though (such as with those coils that apparently don't match your lift properly)... This is where people tend to get into trouble with it.

To swap it out for a D30 though (esp. an older one from a '90), is going backward in virtually every way (smaller gears, smaller u-joints, weaker housing, no locking hubs, and so on). If for some reason you find you can't get the D35 TTB to work for you (admittedly it won't be for everybody), then I suggest at minimum a swap to a D44. This should at least keep you in the same ballpark strengthwise (together with having better brakes too).

Anyway, good luck on it whichever way you decide to go with it. :icon_thumby:
 

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To swap it out for a D30 though (esp. an older one from a '90), is going backward in virtually every way (smaller gears, smaller u-joints, weaker housing, no locking hubs, and so on). If for some reason you find you can't get the D35 TTB to work for you (admittedly it won't be for everybody), then I suggest at minimum a swap to a D44. This should at least keep you in the same ballpark strengthwise (together with having better brakes too).

Anyway, good luck on it whichever way you decide to go with it. :icon_thumby:
depends on the 1990 if it has ABS it has the larger 297x (760x) ujoints, keep gears under 4.56 and they are just fine strength wise, unitbearing hubs=always locked. D35, EB D44, D30 (297x) are all roughly good for 35's before shafts and other parts hit the fan a built D44 is good for a lot more than a built D30 however if he plan is to run 33's or 35's there is no reason to worry about changing major parts a D30 WILL work just fine. Remember a stock EB D44 has the same 260x ujoints as a D28 and the smaller D30. Those are the weak point of that axle. A stock D30 with 297x joints will outlast that axle bar none as will a stock D35.
 

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