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On a 120 mile round trip my 2001 3.0 4x4 started overcharging during first 60 miles then got worse on return and then died!


RonaldBlake

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U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
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Location
Alabama
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Do unto others as you would have others do unto you!
On a 120 mile round trip my 2001 3.0 4x4 started overcharging during the first 60 miles and then after sitting for an hour or so while at a VA medical appointment and en-route home, it got worse and ended up pegging (maxed out) the charging gauge about 40 or so miles into my return trip from the VA medical appointment and then lost all power and died and had to be towed home the remaining 20 miles!

Got another alternator and installed but the truck will not crank. Checked all fuses on the side of dash and 2 of them blow when attempt to turn the key which are fuses 6 & 11! Also checked and tested all of the relays and fuses in the engine compartment!

When key is inserted and door is open a door alert shows but is the only evidence of power!

Background issues:

1. Prior to this I had been locked out by the PATS security system shortly after buying it and was never able to figure that out but, eventually got someone else to get that corrected.

2. While sitting due to the security lockout issue and with a battery charger attached, a lightning strike hit the power cord destroying the battery charger and surging into the 12 volt system through the terminals!

3. It was after this point that the individual was able to get it running for me but the 120 mile round trip was the first use driving it more than 5 miles and, a parasitic draw existed that I had not narrowed down over the couple of days prior to the 120 mile trip so I just took a booster with me in case the battery drew down but did not expect what happened with the overcharging issue occurring and frying something!

With all of this stated I have been paying on the cursed thing for 20 months (with 10 yet to go) now and other than that unsuccessful trip had not even driven it more than 50 additional miles due to all the problems from almost immediately after buying the cursed thing!

Do any of you have any good advice on where to begin troubleshooting this thing so I can start driving it again?

My other vehicle is a 1997 F-250 HD 4x4 5.8 that is metaphorically killing me only getting 7 mpg to 10 mpg on fuel consumption and would really like to get this little Ranger on the road!

Thanks in advance for any guidance/ideas on where to begin troubleshooting and a logical progression of testing troubleshooting from there! With so much misfortune having occurred to the poor thing I am really unsure where to start and progress from given the security lockout, then lightning strike, parasitic draw then, overcharging condition!

Thanks in advance again

Sincerely,
Ronald L. Blake
SFC USARR / Disabled
Rainsville, AL
 
Last edited:


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

RonD

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Thank you for your service

You need a volt meter
Set to DC volts

Check again which fuses are blown in the Cab fuse box, fuse 11 runs a few things, but in 2001 fuse #6 should be open, listed as "not used"
Fuse 11 powers the dash/cluster but wouldn't prevent engine from starting

First test battery voltage after it has sat over night or at least 4 hours WITHOUT being charged
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to watch for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a failed battery, also a PATS issue

If alternator's voltage regulator failed(over charged) then battery would be bad as well
 

RonaldBlake

New Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 20, 2020
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Alabama
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Do unto others as you would have others do unto you!
Thank you for your service

You need a volt meter
Set to DC volts

Check again which fuses are blown in the Cab fuse box, fuse 11 runs a few things, but in 2001 fuse #6 should be open, listed as "not used"
Fuse 11 powers the dash/cluster but wouldn't prevent engine from starting

First test battery voltage after it has sat over night or at least 4 hours WITHOUT being charged
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to watch for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a failed battery, also a PATS issue

If alternator's voltage regulator failed(over charged) then battery would be bad as well
I did replace the battery being it was still under warranty from the last purchase of one and it definitely did fry it and cooked it pretty bad.

The replacement did still get drawn down some but only intermittently which I found odd so had been keeping on a trickle charger until I took it out the other day and stuck it in my F-250HD troubleshooting a possible issue in the F-250 which simply ended up being my dog bumping the shifter barely out of park so it would not turn over but it appeared to still be in park. Took me an hour of troubleshooting the 250 before I realized what was going on! 😳🤫

I will put the battery back in it and follow your advice and report back as I do so and update you on the correct fuse number then.

Thank you for thanking me for my service!

Thank you for helping others!

Thank you so much RonD

Sincerely,
Ronald L. Blake
SFC USARR / Disabled
Rainsville, AL

I got disgusted by it and it has been a while since I have done anything so I may be remembering fuse 6 incorrectly and will double check!
 


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