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FIFYI think the factory spec is snug, but not too tight...
The trick is to get them tight enough to prevent leaks. But not so tight that you distort the lip of the pan where the bolts go through it.What is the correct torque for the oil pan bolts on the 4.0 OHV V6. Is it the same for the two torx bolts on either side of the rear main seal?
It's 7am what do you want from me...FIFY
Nothin. I’m just trying to help.It's 7am what do you want from me...
You ever service, or even take a good close look at a 4.0 oil pan? It's aluminum, with a rubber in-channel gasket. Cork is out, and I'd really recommend against trying to hammer the lip flat it is warped.I little higher than that, use 85in/lb which is about 7ft/lb
If oil pan is out make sure the metal around the bolt holes is not deformed from over tightening, same happens on metal valve covers
You need to pound them straight if so
If metal is deformed then when bolts are tight the space between each bolt is NOT tight, its only tight around the bolt hole where its deformed
Oil pan has no pressure inside, well should have slight NEGATIVE pressure from PCV system when engine is running
So all leaks are gravity leaks, oil is not being forced out, its just squirted on the inside of the block by bearings and rods, then runs down into the oil pan past the gasket
If available use a cork gasket, these swell over time so can be self sealing, but most are "rubber" now
Use RTV on pan and block with gasket in between, but just a thin layer of RTV as you don't want it to squish out into the oil pan side, it forms little balls that can clog up oil pick up screen
You tighten bolts same as head bolts, start at the center and chris-cross out to the ends
Info here on the 4.0l OHV: https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair Instructions--/Mazda MPV Pickup Navajo/9097CH03_Oil_Pan.htm