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Oil pan bolt torque?


e21pilot

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What is the correct torque for the oil pan bolts on the 4.0 OHV V6. Is it the same for the two torx bolts on either side of the rear main seal?
 


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I think the factory spec is snug, but not too tight...
 
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ericbphoto

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What is the correct torque for the oil pan bolts on the 4.0 OHV V6. Is it the same for the two torx bolts on either side of the rear main seal?
The trick is to get them tight enough to prevent leaks. But not so tight that you distort the lip of the pan where the bolts go through it.
 

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ericbphoto

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It's 7am what do you want from me...
Nothin. I’m just trying to help.










But since you asked; a bacon, egg and cheese sandwich on white toast with a side of home fries would be nice.
 

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Most pan bolts get torqued in inch lbs. Generally in the area of 12-14 inch lbs., I'd have to look it up, unless you have a repair manual that has the information you're looking for.
 

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I little higher than that, use 85in/lb which is about 7ft/lb

If oil pan is out make sure the metal around the bolt holes is not deformed from over tightening, same happens on metal valve covers
You need to pound them straight if so

If metal is deformed then when bolts are tight the space between each bolt is NOT tight, its only tight around the bolt hole where its deformed

Oil pan has no pressure inside, well should have slight NEGATIVE pressure from PCV system when engine is running
So all leaks are gravity leaks, oil is not being forced out, its just squirted on the inside of the block by bearings and rods, then runs down into the oil pan past the gasket

If available use a cork gasket, these swell over time so can be self sealing, but most are "rubber" now
Use RTV on pan and block with gasket in between, but just a thin layer of RTV as you don't want it to squish out into the oil pan side, it forms little balls that can clog up oil pick up screen

You tighten bolts same as head bolts, start at the center and chris-cross out to the ends

Info here on the 4.0l OHV: https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair Instructions--/Mazda MPV Pickup Navajo/9097CH03_Oil_Pan.htm
 

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I little higher than that, use 85in/lb which is about 7ft/lb

If oil pan is out make sure the metal around the bolt holes is not deformed from over tightening, same happens on metal valve covers
You need to pound them straight if so

If metal is deformed then when bolts are tight the space between each bolt is NOT tight, its only tight around the bolt hole where its deformed

Oil pan has no pressure inside, well should have slight NEGATIVE pressure from PCV system when engine is running
So all leaks are gravity leaks, oil is not being forced out, its just squirted on the inside of the block by bearings and rods, then runs down into the oil pan past the gasket

If available use a cork gasket, these swell over time so can be self sealing, but most are "rubber" now
Use RTV on pan and block with gasket in between, but just a thin layer of RTV as you don't want it to squish out into the oil pan side, it forms little balls that can clog up oil pick up screen

You tighten bolts same as head bolts, start at the center and chris-cross out to the ends

Info here on the 4.0l OHV: https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair Instructions--/Mazda MPV Pickup Navajo/9097CH03_Oil_Pan.htm
You ever service, or even take a good close look at a 4.0 oil pan? It's aluminum, with a rubber in-channel gasket. Cork is out, and I'd really recommend against trying to hammer the lip flat it is warped.
 

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Was speaking about oil pans in general, like valve covers, stamped steel

Not sure anyone could deform aluminum oil pan or valve covers by over tightening

But cork, if you can find it, is the best gasket material for oil pan or valve covers
 
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e21pilot

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I did have the pan out and cleaned it thoroughly. I did not think to check if the bolt surface was warped or not. I assumed not since it was cast aluminum. It does use a formed string-like rubber gasket that fits in the groove of the pan. I ran a very thin bead of the Ford grey gasket sealer near the inside and outside edges of the rubber strip and also along the curves at the front and back for the crank connections. I have an old bicycle torque wrench that is in inch-lbs so I will make use it.
 


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