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Oil Catch Can


gungfudan

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Anyone ever added a Oil catch can to their 3.0?
 


Dirtman

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I put one on my 2.3 because of how much of an annoyance it is to change the PCV valve and how much idling time it does. On a non GDI engine with a normal PCV system, driven normally there's really no reason to. Can't hurt either though. But I have found the cheaper ones are really useless in any case. You need a non vented, baffled can, and it's still smart to add more baffling in the form of stainless steel wool.
 

gungfudan

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I put one on my 2.3 because of how much of an annoyance it is to change the PCV valve and how much idling time it does. On a non GDI engine with a normal PCV system, driven normally there's really no reason to. Can't hurt either though. But I have found the cheaper ones are really useless in any case. You need a non vented, baffled can, and it's still smart to add more baffling in the form of stainless steel wool.
That was going to be my next question if I needed a non vented or not?
 

Dirtman

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The PCV system is sealed and metered (engine vacuum on one side and air metered by the MAF/MAP sensor on the other side). A vented can will cause an air leak in the system (i.e vacuum leak).

The only reason for vented cans is race cars and epa BS worried about crankcase goo leaking onto the track or road from a open crankcase ventilation system (NON PCV).
 

gungfudan

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The PCV system is sealed and metered (engine vacuum on one side and air metered by the MAF/MAP sensor on the other side). A vented can will cause an air leak in the system (i.e vacuum leak).

The only reason for vented cans is race cars and epa BS worried about crankcase goo leaking onto the track or road from a open crankcase ventilation system.
Makes sense.
 

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I put one on my 2.3 because of how much of an annoyance it is to change the PCV valve and how much idling time it does. On a non GDI engine with a normal PCV system, driven normally there's really no reason to. Can't hurt either though. But I have found the cheaper ones are really useless in any case. You need a non vented, baffled can, and it's still smart to add more baffling in the form of stainless steel wool.
Where did you get yours Dirtman ? And does it really help with our 2.3 ?
Maybe shoot a pic for me ?
Grumpaw
 

Dirtman

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Amazon, I think I got this one.


It catches about an 1/4 of a cup of snot every 6 months on a "severe service" engine. So not enough that I would ever even remotely consider it necessary. Like I said, I only did it as a backup because of how stupid hard the PCV valve is to replace. I feel safer letting it go longer with the catch can on there. On a normal engine I would just change the pcv valve more frequently and never bother with the catch can. I'll take a pic when I go out.

I did my pcv valve for the first time at like 50k... :shok: cause that's how long it took me to get up the energy to do it. It was 100% stuck open. I've done it reluctantly every 10k since. I'm slowly loosing all the bolts to the inner fender though, so eventually itll be a much easier job. :icon_rofl:
 
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Anyone ever added a Oil catch can to their 3.0?
Yes, didn't make a difference. Also hard to locate and mount close to PCV. I had to extend vac lines to a rad mount but then needed to install springs in hoses to prevent vacuum collapse.

I found that using Seafoam intake flush every 10K much better solution.
 

gungfudan

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Yes, didn't make a difference. Also hard to locate and mount close to PCV. I had to extend vac lines to a rad mount but then needed to install springs in hoses to prevent vacuum collapse.

I found that using Seafoam intake flush every 10K much better solution.
I do the same thing every other oil change which is 10K
 

racsan

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I need to replace my pcv valve, it’s possibly the original.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Been running one on my 2.9 since last year. Every single one of my vehicles has one now. They do nothing but help if they're done properly
 

racsan

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Im considering building my own, Im off until after the first of the year and feel the need to fabricate something. Its plenty warm to be out in the shop.
 

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Oil catch cans are less of a necessity for non direct injection vehicles but that oil vapor does build up in the intake over time and can gunk things up. Certainly not a bad idea to install one after your warranty has expired. I'm thinking of putting one on my 2011. The 2019, for which it would be more beneficial, will have to wait. I do seem to remember seeing some where that you do have to pay attention to the type of hose you use on them because of the collapsing issue. I don't remember the details on it though. I do remember that going cheap con result in a system that might as well not be there. Do your research before buying a kit or making your own.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Amazon cans are $17 on prime.

Get 10' of reinforced fuel line. 89 cent stainless steel pot scrubber for surface area.

Youre installing an oil condenser/collector. Crankcase vapors provide no benefits if not supercharged.

For any n/a vehicle, catch can solves most intake fouling issues. Will allow injectors or wall wetting carb vapors to do their job and keep intake valves clean. Read: detergents (this is why I swear by Exxon fuel).

For SOME supercharged applications, egr and crankcase vapors are highly beneficial as they pack the roots blowers lobes with compressible carbon fouling. This helps maintain the blowers volumetric efficiency as it wears. If memory serves, this is undesirable on screw type blowers.


Something about a roots blower is a actual blower, where it shoves a positive pressure on the intake and intake valves, and a screw type is essentially a scroll compressor and discharges pressurized air in compressed pulses. Can't remember, but think it's generally a bad idea with twin screw. Can't remember. (I know that I don't know enough about twin screw setups, but Google them, they're cool AF)



Egr and pcv are harmful to judson or centrifugal blowers outright.

Crankcase vapors fed to the intake are akin to eating out of the outhouse. Carbon fouling, sludge, and general filth comes from this, and when combined with egr, well, Google some caked shut intake manifolds. Or look up what happens when you skip too many oil changes on a gdi. Hint: walnut shell blasting.

In some early efi bulls*** engines, tales exist of heads so carbon fouled, they were munching carbon against the pistons. At least on the Chrysler side this was true.

Oil vapors effectively lower the octane rating of your fuel when sprayed in conjunction. TEL is beneficial to some valve types. Burnt oil vapors and combustion byproducts are not beneficial to any valve type.

Arguments to be made for a little carbon on the intake valve seats is healthy as well as an oil sheen as a thermal barrier on the intake runners.

However, keeping oil and crankcase vapors TF out of the intake is crucial in gdi application. Without fuel and detergent spray on the intake walls, shit just runs rampant

IIRC, something is counterintuitive to this in diesel and some turbo applications. Idk. That's a bobby or any of the D guys or deathbypsi question. I don't understand diesels and i don't want to. Hate the smell of the fuel and exhaust. Too loud. Sound like Bigfoot farting into a trash can for a really long time.

Don't know s*** about pcv and egr in a gasoline turbocharger, either. Something tells me there's nuance to that versus types of snail

















Merry Christmas fellas. I smoked the tree.
 

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