Oh Brother - suddenly B4000/V6 won't fire up after running the day before!

[cobrajocky]

You know, I could write a Country song about this damn truck! "If I didn't Have Bad Luck, I wouldn't have this damn 97 Mazda B4000!" I think it's possessed, the ODO say's 99,999.4 miles. (23 years old going on 100 in it's crankiness.)

After driving around stop and go errands all Sunday, starting right up each time, running fine, plenty a 4Litre V6 power, this damn truck won't fire up the next day! Not a momentary start, not a cough, not a thing except the starter more than sufficiently spinning over the motor.

Pumping the gas pedal I can smell some gas fumes. All the dash advisory lights are on while cranking it.

This has happened before for a few minutes and then a backfire and some rough initial running, but that's been some time ago (months). It's been pretty hot mid 90's here on the Worst Coast the last few days. The beast is parked in my driveway nose down hill on a maybe 6 degree slopped short driveway. So I'd think Gravity should be helping get gas from the tank to the front.

Last few weeks I was getting a lot a squeaking noise from somewhere under the hood (like a noisy pulley kind of squeak) but would go away after the motor warmed up. The last day it started and ran, that squeaking was a bit louder than usual. Don't know if this is a Hint or a Symptom.

I popped the gas cap, no vacuum whoosh.

In the last 12 months I put in a complete new AC system, a new Evap System and a new Alternator. What the hell else does this truck want from me??!!

Anyways, I'm at a loss what and where to check, diagnose first, second or third. Any sincere help would be greatly appreciated.

Note: I do NOT a fuel line pressure checker, so I need to work around that if it's a fuel problemo.

You guys are always helpful, Thanks very much.

 

[SenorNoob]

Dunno about the squeaking, but the rest of it sounds like a leaky injector.

 

[sgtsandman]

I had a pulley bearing that was going bad that would squeak until things warmed up. Different engine but it was an idler pulley. After I replaced the pulley, the squeak went away.

 

[cobrajocky]

Dunno about the squeaking, but the rest of it sounds like a leaky injector.

But wouldn't a leaky injector have given plenty of clues something was up the whole day before? Drove it most of the day, 4 to 5 starts and stops after sitting a 1/2 hour between each??

Isn't a sudden failure of the fuel pump more likely? (though it's only 99,999 miles / 23 years old? Don't know much about the fuel pumps on the Rangers/B-4000's. Not sure where it is?

 

[SenorNoob]

But wouldn't a leaky injector have given plenty of clues something was up the whole day before? Drove it most of the day, 4 to 5 starts and stops after sitting a 1/2 hour between each??

Isn't a sudden failure of the fuel pump more likely? (though it's only 99,999 miles / 23 years old? Don't know much about the fuel pumps on the Rangers/B-4000's. Not sure where it is?

Probably right. I was going from the smell of gas, backfire, and rough running. The pump usually doesn't give any signs of failure.

It's in the tank. Either way the best thing to do would be get a gauge on it. Harbor freight sells a decent one.

If you suspect the pump is out, check for (or force) power to it. If you can't hear it hum it isn't working. BTW, when you turn the key on, it only runs for a few seconds until RPM goes above a threshold set in the computer. That's why I say force power to it.

 

[cobrajocky]

Probably right. I was going from the smell of gas, backfire, and rough running. The pump usually doesn't give any signs of failure.

It's in the tank. Either way the best thing to do would be get a gauge on it. Harbor freight sells a decent one.

If you suspect the pump is out, check for (or force) power to it. If you can't hear it hum it isn't working. BTW, when you turn the key on, it only runs for a few seconds until RPM goes above a threshold set in the computer. That's why I say force power to it.

Only a mild smell of gas, NO Backfires or Rough Running, it doesn't start at all, just turns over like there is either no spark or gas. The day before it ran perfectly.

Note: on some occations over the years, this beast would stall when taking off for a stop sign or any stopped situation - like it ran out of gas.

Questions:
1) How do I "force" power to the fuel pump?
2) This is the only Ranger/B-4000 I've ever had, do you have to drop the tank to replace a bad fuel pump? (this is the 4.0L V6, full bed, Ext Cab, just like a Ranger XLT)

3) could it be something as simple as a bad fuel filter (completely plugged?

Thanks!

 

[MikeG]

Stall from idle is often a vacuum leak, FYI.

 

[cobrajocky]

Stall from idle is often a vacuum leak, FYI.

Where would that vacuum leak most likely be? Which vacuum line? -
Thanks for that suggestion.

 

[cobrajocky]

I had a pulley bearing that was going bad that would squeak until things warmed up. Different engine but it was an idler pulley. After I replaced the pulley, the squeak went away.

I have a feeling it (the squeak) is coming from the Idler Pulley, started right after I did the recent Alternator replacement. It gets the "next" attention after I get this beast actually running again.

Thanks for your service in the Air Nat Guard, are you still current active? I was AF Reserves during college last 2 years in the late 60's / Jr ROTC in HS and then ROTC in college, trained as a pilot in Helo's and Fixed wing at Scott AFB, Illinois / AFSOC, Reserves station. After college grad, I was "asked" to vacation in Nam full time AF flying UH-1 gun-slicks then AH-1E / F Cobra's, and some AT-28E ground support for two years, 20th SOS, 27th Spl Ops Wing. After coming back I went back to reserves to finish out 20 years total. Enjoyed every minute .. almost.

 

[sgtsandman]

I have a feeling it (the squeak) is coming from the Idler Pulley, started right after I did the recent Alternator replacement. It gets the "next" attention after I get this beast actually running again.

Thanks for your service in the Air Nat Guard, are you still current active? I was AF Reserves during college last 2 years in the late 60's / Jr ROTC in HS and then ROTC in college, trained as a pilot in Helo's and Fixed wing at Scott AFB, Illinois / AFSOC, Reserves station. After college grad, I was "asked" to vacation in Nam full time AF flying UH-1 gun-slicks then AH-1E / F Cobra's, and some AT-28E ground support for two years, 20th SOS, 27th Spl Ops Wing. After coming back I went back to reserves to finish out 20 years total. Enjoyed every minute .. almost.

Yes, I’m still active. I’m a dual status technician. So, I’m in until I’m ready to retire on the civilian side.

Thank you for your support and your service.

 

[MikeG]

Where would that vacuum leak most likely be? Which vacuum line? -
Thanks for that suggestion.

Everywhere

The 4.0 OHV has a bad habit of leaking between the two parts of the intake manifold (unfortunately). Drove me nuts till a mechanic who understood that engine sorted it out. Anyway, being a 97, there's no telling.... I'm planning on replacing all the upper engine gaskets and vacuum lines and whatnot in the spring. After 23 years.... probably best to assume it's all marginal. At least vacuum hoses are cheap.

 

[SenorNoob]

...1) How do I "force" power to the fuel pump?
2) This is the only Ranger/B-4000 I've ever had, do you have to drop the tank to replace a bad fuel pump? (this is the 4.0L V6, full bed, Ext Cab, just like a Ranger XLT)

3) could it be something as simple as a bad fuel filter (completely plugged?
...

I may have gotten a couple of threads mixed up.... Sorry.
1: Easiest way is to take out the fuel pump relay and jumper the 2 circled wires.

Note that that won't tell you if you have a bad wire or inertia switch...
2: If you have a way to lift it (two fairly strong people can do it), I find taking the bed off easier.
3: Always possible. Also have you checked fuses?

 

[cobrajocky]

Everywhere

The 4.0 OHV has a bad habit of leaking between the two parts of the intake manifold (unfortunately). Drove me nuts till a mechanic who understood that engine sorted it out. Anyway, being a 97, there's no telling.... I'm planning on replacing all the upper engine gaskets and vacuum lines and whatnot in the spring. After 23 years.... probably best to assume it's all marginal. At least vacuum hoses are cheap.

Replacing all the vacuum hoses sounds like a best first try solution. I've had a lot of hoses under the hood do the age deterioration thing over the last couple years. Think I will do the same before spending money on a mechanic tearing into looking for a manifold leak. - Thanks for that tip.

 

[cobrajocky]

I may have gotten a couple of threads mixed up.... Sorry.
1: Easiest way is to take out the fuel pump relay and jumper the 2 circled wires.

Note that that won't tell you if you have a bad wire or inertia switch...

2: If you have a way to lift it (two fairly strong people can do it), I find taking the bed off easier.
3: Always possible. Also have you checked fuses?

SenorNoob - Thanks very much for the follow-up and digging up that circuit diagram. I noticed it's for a 1994, is that going to be safe to go by for a 97?

I hadn't thought about checking for a blown fuse. Will look at that first.
I suppose looking to see if there is even gas getting to the injectors might not be a bad idea early in the diagnostics? Question is, where is the easiest and most appropriate / SAFE place to do that, in the engine compartment?

I had feeling access to the gas tank for the fuel pump would mean either dropping the tank or removing the bed. My B-4000 came with a factory bed liner, I've never had it off. Is there a chance that there is an access panel in the steel bed under the liner to the gas tank where the fuel pump is?
(Couldn't be that simple, could it?)

Hey, thanks again for all your great input.

 

[superunknown98]

Many auto parts store will loan you the fuel rail pressure tester. Otherwise you can press the schrader valve in on the fuel rail. If fuel comes out you have at least some pressure. Especially after turning the key to accessory. Another trick you can try is disconnecting the intake tube and spraying some throttle body cleaner in while trying to start. If this keeps your engine running you have a fuel issue.