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Official 4R44E Problem Thread!


Fredness

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Work truck, never garaged, snow tires, 240lbs of sand in a custom holder in the bed over the axles.
I'm sure it was loaded and improperly warmed up before driving in subzero temps.

Is that general trashing or a technical term?
 


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Transman304

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My credo
If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem
That is a technical term (partial or semi stall) Happens when a vehicle is operated with excessive loads. never fully reach proper engagement. Pressures are very high as a converter is in stall.
Just thought of a scenario if the cooler or lines are plugged might be a possibility.
Brad
 
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Fredness

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The more you know... 🌈🌟

Thx.
Cooler lines are good, anything I can do to keep it from happening again??
Big FAT cooler?

While the engine and radiator are out I'll snake/blowout the lines - and obviously replace the converter...
 

LenoxFire513

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Have a 95 Ranger not shifting correctly. After searching the internet this is what I came up with.

No 2nd or 4th, Erratic Direct Clutch, No Upshift:
The solenoid regulator valve is likely out of position. With SSB solenoid removed, the end of the casting to edge of the long aluminum plug will measure 1.720” when L pin is installed properly.

My question is how do I adjust the position.
 

Transman304

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If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem
Welcome to the Forum! No adjustment on that just a reference measurement to make sure the L pin is in the correct position after installation. Very doubtful thats going to be an issue. More along the lines of a out of adjustment/burned intermediate and OD band. May want to check band adjustments first before heading into the valve body.
Brad
7C6FF79A-AE2F-490D-804B-09464FE1DB2D.png567A91AD-86CD-4E0C-A7C8-EF577A38D7EE.jpeg
 

LenoxFire513

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Welcome to the Forum! No adjustment on that just a reference measurement to make sure the L pin is in the correct position after installation. Very doubtful thats going to be an issue. More along the lines of a out of adjustment/burned intermediate and OD band. May want to check band adjustments first before heading into the valve body.
Brad
View attachment 48116View attachment 48117
That will work. Thinking about putting in the spare transmission at the shop and sending this one up for a rebuild.
 

Keltic_Guard

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Ok now to this forum, but like the rest of you I have issues with my 4r44e. The issue I have is that if I put it into drive it won't change up. As I accelerate it sort to gets to the point where it wants to change but then judges and dosen't change. I can put it in to 2 or 1 and the boxes drives. Any ideas?
 

Burnsy

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Try replacing the speed sensor on top of the rear axle differential pumpkin before dumping money into your tranny if its flaring or shifting funny
, it's super easy and a $20 part, takes 10 minutes. It's held on with one bolt 13 mm Or 3/8 and has an electrical pigtail type electrical connection. It's easier to remove it from the electrical connector if you unbolt it first while its still electrically connected, THEN remove the connector from the sensor while you're able to have it all in your hands....You will be laying down under the truck doing this if you don't have a lift, but at least you won't be trying to unhook the connector while the sensor is still bolted on to the top of the differential, theres not much hand/arm room that way.....and unhook the neg battery cable from the battery before you do all this...
 
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98v70dad

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My 96 2WD 3.0L automatic Ranger wont always shift into gear from park. It happens shiftng from park to drive and park to reverse. It doesn't happen all of the time and happens most often (and most likely) if the truck has been parked for a few weeks. Usually shifting the selector through all of the gears with my foot on the brake and revving the engine will get it to go but only with a big slam into gear. The truck has about 85,000 miles on it.

The fluid level is full and was changed out a few years ago at about 50,000 miles but it was suctioned out and the filter wasn't replaced. Every couple of weeks I would suck out about 3.5 quarts and replace the same amount (mercon fluid). I did this over a period of about a month until I had removed/replaced about 9 quarts. I have checked for loose bolts in the selector on the steering column and that is all tight and good. I don't have any trouble codes or check engine light.

I've read that the valve body gasket and/or the solenoid pack could be bad. Is there something simplier that could be causing the problem? My guess is that its the valve body gasket but I'd appreciate other opinions since that's a cheap and relatively easy fix but definitely a big mess.
 

Burnsy

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I'm not a mechanic but have some ranger tranny experience.....sounds like maybe the filter......when you give throttle the truck is supposed to increase the amount of tranny fluid that flows.....sounds like by having to rev the engine you're needing to force fluid thru the system to get it to function, maybe bcuz the filter is blocked and it takes more force to get any fluid thru the filter......then when you get just enuf fluid for it to engage it engages but not with very much fluid so it clunks/slams when it changes gear....
 

98v70dad

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I'm not a mechanic but have some ranger tranny experience.....sounds like maybe the filter......when you give throttle the truck is supposed to increase the amount of tranny fluid that flows.....sounds like by having to rev the engine you're needing to force fluid thru the system to get it to function, maybe bcuz the filter is blocked and it takes more force to get any fluid thru the filter......then when you get just enuf fluid for it to engage it engages but not with very much fluid so it clunks/slams when it changes gear....
Thanks, that could be a possibility for sure. It definitely explains whats going on. It also explains why it will go away for a while and then come back. I've been putting off replacing the filter because of the big mess. When I do the filter change I'm still planning to replace the valve body gasket since that going bad is only a matter of time if it hasn't already happened.

Does anyone have any other thoughts? I don't know much about transmissions because I've never had a problem on any car I've owned in 40 years. I'm a little surprised this truck is giving me prblems. It has low miles and has been lightly driven its whole life.
 

DILLARD000

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4WD
4r44e is basicly same transmission as 5r55e just with earlier PCM software controls.
If there's room, consider swapping 2WD shallow pan to 4WD deeper pan; a little more ATF volume & cooling capacity.
If swapping to a new pan, get one with a DrainBung & consider a Fumoto DrainValve, for easier\cleaner future ATF changes.
The deeper pan requires the version of the Filter with the longer suction tube on the bottom side.
If you don't already have one, consider an external TransCooler in front of the Radiator.
Probaby should adjust\tighten the Bands while your under the Transmission.
Hopefully fresh ATF, new filter, & new ValveBody gasket will cure your issues.
Gotten in the habit of HandPumping ~1qt of ATF from the Transmission DipTube & refreshing that MerconV,
every 6mths along with the routine Engine Oil+Filter change.
 

98v70dad

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4r44e is basicly same transmission as 5r55e just with earlier PCM software controls.
If there's room, consider swapping 2WD shallow pan to 4WD deeper pan; a little more ATF volume & cooling capacity.
If swapping to a new pan, get one with a DrainBung & consider a Fumoto DrainValve, for easier\cleaner future ATF changes.
The deeper pan requires the version of the Filter with the longer suction tube on the bottom side.
If you don't already have one, consider an external TransCooler in front of the Radiator.
Probaby should adjust\tighten the Bands while your under the Transmission.
Hopefully fresh ATF, new filter, & new ValveBody gasket will cure your issues.
Gotten in the habit of HandPumping ~1qt of ATF from the Transmission DipTube & refreshing that MerconV,
every 6mths along with the routine Engine Oil+Filter change.
Thanks. I have planned to upgrade the pan to one with a drain plug when I do the filter change. I'm retiring in a few months and have a possible goal of a V8 engine swap so there's no need to make a lot of changes since a new engine/transmission is not far down the road. So I just need to get it back to being reliable for now. How do I go about adjusting/tightening the bands? I have no idea how to do that. I use this truck as a commuter vehicle and occasional trips to home depot for lumber. Its only hauled a heavy load maybe three times.
 

DILLARD000

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Intermediat+OverDrive Bands tightened via 2 Studs with 2 Nuts on Left Drivers side of Transmission

Tightening Procedure:
~ Hold BandStud In Place, Loosen JamNut
~ Tighten BandStud To 10LbFt 120LbIn CW Then BackOff 1.50~2.00 Turns CCW
~ Hold BandStud In Place, Tighten JamNut To 35~45LbFt

Video specificly on adjusting the Bands

More details in these threads:
 
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