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2.3L ('83-'97) Odd thought on the '97 for runability...
- Thread starter scotts90ranger
- Start date
PetroleumJunkie412
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So.... hellcat mode?
Blmpkn
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Aw hell it's already a thing isn't it -__-
I'm always way too late with my groundbreaking ideas.. ugh.
Blmpkn
Toilet enthusiast
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- My credo
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Ok so yeah.. just read up on 'interchillers'..
Good lord do I love shit engineered for go-fasts
Everything about it. The idea... the ATTITUDE behind the idea...It's... it's just beautiful.
Good lord do I love shit engineered for go-fasts
Everything about it. The idea... the ATTITUDE behind the idea...It's... it's just beautiful.
Blmpkn
Toilet enthusiast
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- Southern maine
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- 2.3
- Transmission
- Automatic
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 2.5" level
- Tire Size
- 275/65/18
- My credo
- Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
My vote is for more heavy metal.
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USS Gerald R Ford, 100,000ton displacement, now THAT'S Heavy Metal
https://www.navylookout.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/USS-Gerald-R-Ford-at-sea-1536x788.jpg
https://www.navylookout.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/USS-Gerald-R-Ford-at-sea-1536x788.jpg
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- A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
PetroleumJunkie412
Official TRS EV Taunter
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- Manual
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- 4WD
- My credo
- Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
Holy crap, they still make it...
Tornado Air™ — More Power, More Mileage!
Drive 30-60 extra miles or your money back. Order online now!
www.tornadoair.com
Only $89!
- Joined
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- 2WD
- My credo
- A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
I bought one on clearence years ago at autozone for like 10 bucks just to try.Holy crap, they still make it...
Tornado Air™ — More Power, More Mileage!
Drive 30-60 extra miles or your money back. Order online now!
Only $89!
Put it in my 99 Crown vic...dropped like 5mpg and probably added 2 seconds to my 0-60. Total joke
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- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 6
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- 35"
I went boating instead of doing anything productive today, maybe sometime this week 
Dustin, you probably just needed a phenolic throttle body spacer to get it to work, that'd fix it right up... gotta keep the heat from transferring up the plastic intake manifold up into the throttle body, or is it adding length before the plenum area of the intake manifold to increase the volume by 0.2378376568909767896890977% that's supposed to make the 30hp? I forget...
In case I haven't said it before (too lazy to re read), I know this is a bandaid, more of a proof of concept, I'm aware it's basically the equivalent of the oxygen sensor resistor things... part of the problem around here is the days where it's not very often we have weather over 90F so this is only a problem a few times a year... if it works maybe I'll get fancy and put it on a double pole double throw switch to go between the sensor and resistor...
Dustin, you probably just needed a phenolic throttle body spacer to get it to work, that'd fix it right up... gotta keep the heat from transferring up the plastic intake manifold up into the throttle body, or is it adding length before the plenum area of the intake manifold to increase the volume by 0.2378376568909767896890977% that's supposed to make the 30hp? I forget...
In case I haven't said it before (too lazy to re read), I know this is a bandaid, more of a proof of concept, I'm aware it's basically the equivalent of the oxygen sensor resistor things... part of the problem around here is the days where it's not very often we have weather over 90F so this is only a problem a few times a year... if it works maybe I'll get fancy and put it on a double pole double throw switch to go between the sensor and resistor...
- Joined
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Got all the parts for the tune up today, and got that done. Runs much better, and my shimmy between 60 to 65 is gone, it'll also go faster than 65 now. It had 3 different types of spark plugs in it, and one looks like it might have been original.
3 Champion RS12YC, 3 Autolite 104, 1 Autolite 764 in the No 1 cylinder on the passenger side, with a gap of .063" (it was worn that much), and 1 more Autolite 764 in the driver's side No. 4 cylinder, with a gap of .083". I also replaced all the plug wires and the coil packs. It made a tremendous difference in the way it runs.
3 Champion RS12YC, 3 Autolite 104, 1 Autolite 764 in the No 1 cylinder on the passenger side, with a gap of .063" (it was worn that much), and 1 more Autolite 764 in the driver's side No. 4 cylinder, with a gap of .083". I also replaced all the plug wires and the coil packs. It made a tremendous difference in the way it runs.
PetroleumJunkie412
Official TRS EV Taunter
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2018
- Messages
- 7,835
- Reaction score
- 6,554
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Dirtman's Basement
- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Make / Model
- Ranger
- Engine Size
- 2.9l Trinity
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- My credo
- Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
There was a suuuuuuper old site I found at one point... was geocities style... old dude that wired trimmer pots into his dash on a F150 with a EECIV 300ci.I went boating instead of doing anything productive today, maybe sometime this week
Dustin, you probably just needed a phenolic throttle body spacer to get it to work, that'd fix it right up... gotta keep the heat from transferring up the plastic intake manifold up into the throttle body, or is it adding length before the plenum area of the intake manifold to increase the volume by 0.2378376568909767896890977% that's supposed to make the 30hp? I forget...
In case I haven't said it before (too lazy to re read), I know this is a bandaid, more of a proof of concept, I'm aware it's basically the equivalent of the oxygen sensor resistor things... part of the problem around here is the days where it's not very often we have weather over 90F so this is only a problem a few times a year... if it works maybe I'll get fancy and put it on a double pole double throw switch to go between the sensor and resistor...
Claimed it worked once he got it dialed in. I'll see if I can dig it up. Seemed like crap to me, but may be worth a read.
- Joined
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- Messages
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- 3,303
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- 113
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- Dayton Oregon
- Vehicle Year
- 1990, 1997
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Type
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Engine Size
- 2.3 Turbo
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 6
- Tire Size
- 35"
I'm not THAT into tricking things into not working wrong, I just want to have all my sparks happening before TDC instead of after while I'm trying to accelerate... I know that's silly but that's how I roll . I'd leave it well enough alone since it's just a stock hooptie but it wants to be a jerk sometimes... If I decide to build a spare engine into a 2.5L and add a small turbo (have the one off the '90 when I changed it...) and a few psi then I'm not against going with an aftermarket control... but that's after I get a few other projects done and have some spare time and money and of course find a spare engine first...
. I'd leave it well enough alone since it's just a stock hooptie but it wants to be a jerk sometimes... If I decide to build a spare engine into a 2.5L and add a small turbo (have the one off the '90 when I changed it...) and a few psi then I'm not against going with an aftermarket control... but that's after I get a few other projects done and have some spare time and money and of course find a spare engine first...
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2001
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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- Location
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- 1990, 1997
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Type
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Engine Size
- 2.3 Turbo
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 6
- Tire Size
- 35"
I finally found intake air temp on Torque, it was 90F again today and I was watching, sitting at stoplights the temp was going up to 54C (around 130F), coolant temp around 80C (180F), so kinda high for the air temp but not too far out of reason... still haven't stopped to check the resistance but I do have more info, does make me wonder if it isn't a bad air temp sensor...
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