corerftech
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2021
- Messages
- 208
- Reaction score
- 84
- Points
- 28
- Location
- Memphis, TN
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
1990 dual plug. Disaster from Bubba. Electrical nightmare!
Today made huge advancements on repairs, all of which were caused by several nipple heads who touched it before me.
Prior I had code 18 short, 56 MAFv too high and something else related to ignition (coil 3 dead code), tach was dead too.
Installed Standard ICM (new) and voila- tach alive.
I had to tear things apart to get to I inspected possible faults. Opened timing belt cover, verified cam timing. Removed both coils, DVM tested, found primary (exh) cooked on one bank with very high secondary and primary. Replaced with a real motorcraft from a 5.0 I had, replaced the failed radio filter cap as well. Failure found to be from the cracked and broken heat shield below. I welded it back together and reinstalled the coil and filter. All connections are sterile clean as well and all wiring faults (short/rub/fray, etc corrected).
Intake coil is aftermarket as found and tested at 13k13k, 0.8/0.8 ohms so I reinstalled after cleaning. Tested its filter cap, no issue, 25uF. R&R all intake side plugs. Prior all exh side plugs were found hand tight. Simply R&R and gap them from .090 as found to .044 actually caused the engine to run! This time I cleaned the best 4 plugs with grit cleaner, gapped to 44, installed on intake.
New Delco copper gapped at 44 installed on exh side. All plug wires dressed and installed in correct locations.
Sterile cleaned the intake manifold at ICM and degreased sterile all 3 ICM screws. Installed with sink paste the new Standard T series ICM and torqued to 28 in/lb. Ground quality is excellent for the ICM, old one has loose screws and no sink paste( was an aftermarket, probably fried drivers inside).
Finally I fired up the engine and it ran, with tach functioning (calibration is off due to me messing with adjustments in dash prior trying to make it work, I’ll tear IP out again and adjust for proper RPm).
With timing light verified NO spout, 10BTDC and with spout, about 18BTDC at idle.
Fast idle calms down as it should after start. It’s definitely rich still. I didn’t mention that the intake plugs were spraying fuel everywhere they were so loose. Plus the coil pack didn’t work due to ICM fail so they were damn near shorted with rich fouling.
So after clearing codes and a static test run in garage, I have but one code, 56, MAF voltage over/out of range/excess.
It is an aftermarket MAF (not mine), I did clean it but made no difference (with MAF cleaner). It has blue elements on sensor itself and wires are undamaged.
The running issues (in garage):
Code 56
Off idle if you really slowly climb into the throttle, it will rev past a bumble at maybe 1500-1660 rpm.
If you stop at 1500, it will sit and sputter.
If you punch it from idle, perfection.
Like an idle transition jet issue on a carb where the mains take over and improper jetting.
So I’m no wiz but if MAF V is too high ( granted it may be a bad sensor) then ECU says add fuel to compensate for huge airflow, which would cause a rich condition period.
I don’t know how to look at this issue. Can the MAF sensor cause this type of over rich??
Also are aftermarket MAF sensors worth a damn? If I buy one, likelihood of a bad/ piece of crap from the aftermarket company???
Lastly if it has been running Uber rich for a long time, it’s there a potential for an O2 sensor concern??
No CEL anymore either, and not because the bulb burned out (which was how I found the truck- LOL)
Other than it running rich, a code 56 and the stumble the engine is ready to rock and roll.
long post , needed to ensure some history was present for discernment.
Any input would be appreciated.
BTW: opened ECU, inspected what looked like a 3.3uF/63v and another “can’t remember value” at 63v radial electrolytic on board. No bulge, no leak, conformal coating perfect. I’ll still replace them but…… I don’t think they are currently causing issues.
Mike in Memphis
Today made huge advancements on repairs, all of which were caused by several nipple heads who touched it before me.
Prior I had code 18 short, 56 MAFv too high and something else related to ignition (coil 3 dead code), tach was dead too.
Installed Standard ICM (new) and voila- tach alive.
I had to tear things apart to get to I inspected possible faults. Opened timing belt cover, verified cam timing. Removed both coils, DVM tested, found primary (exh) cooked on one bank with very high secondary and primary. Replaced with a real motorcraft from a 5.0 I had, replaced the failed radio filter cap as well. Failure found to be from the cracked and broken heat shield below. I welded it back together and reinstalled the coil and filter. All connections are sterile clean as well and all wiring faults (short/rub/fray, etc corrected).
Intake coil is aftermarket as found and tested at 13k13k, 0.8/0.8 ohms so I reinstalled after cleaning. Tested its filter cap, no issue, 25uF. R&R all intake side plugs. Prior all exh side plugs were found hand tight. Simply R&R and gap them from .090 as found to .044 actually caused the engine to run! This time I cleaned the best 4 plugs with grit cleaner, gapped to 44, installed on intake.
New Delco copper gapped at 44 installed on exh side. All plug wires dressed and installed in correct locations.
Sterile cleaned the intake manifold at ICM and degreased sterile all 3 ICM screws. Installed with sink paste the new Standard T series ICM and torqued to 28 in/lb. Ground quality is excellent for the ICM, old one has loose screws and no sink paste( was an aftermarket, probably fried drivers inside).
Finally I fired up the engine and it ran, with tach functioning (calibration is off due to me messing with adjustments in dash prior trying to make it work, I’ll tear IP out again and adjust for proper RPm).
With timing light verified NO spout, 10BTDC and with spout, about 18BTDC at idle.
Fast idle calms down as it should after start. It’s definitely rich still. I didn’t mention that the intake plugs were spraying fuel everywhere they were so loose. Plus the coil pack didn’t work due to ICM fail so they were damn near shorted with rich fouling.
So after clearing codes and a static test run in garage, I have but one code, 56, MAF voltage over/out of range/excess.
It is an aftermarket MAF (not mine), I did clean it but made no difference (with MAF cleaner). It has blue elements on sensor itself and wires are undamaged.
The running issues (in garage):
Code 56
Off idle if you really slowly climb into the throttle, it will rev past a bumble at maybe 1500-1660 rpm.
If you stop at 1500, it will sit and sputter.
If you punch it from idle, perfection.
Like an idle transition jet issue on a carb where the mains take over and improper jetting.
So I’m no wiz but if MAF V is too high ( granted it may be a bad sensor) then ECU says add fuel to compensate for huge airflow, which would cause a rich condition period.
I don’t know how to look at this issue. Can the MAF sensor cause this type of over rich??
Also are aftermarket MAF sensors worth a damn? If I buy one, likelihood of a bad/ piece of crap from the aftermarket company???
Lastly if it has been running Uber rich for a long time, it’s there a potential for an O2 sensor concern??
No CEL anymore either, and not because the bulb burned out (which was how I found the truck- LOL)
Other than it running rich, a code 56 and the stumble the engine is ready to rock and roll.
long post , needed to ensure some history was present for discernment.
Any input would be appreciated.
BTW: opened ECU, inspected what looked like a 3.3uF/63v and another “can’t remember value” at 63v radial electrolytic on board. No bulge, no leak, conformal coating perfect. I’ll still replace them but…… I don’t think they are currently causing issues.
Mike in Memphis
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