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O-ring for Quick Disconnect on Clutch Line


bernasty

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Does anyone know where I can find the o-ring that goes around the quick disconnect fitment for the main clutch line? Or does anyone know the exact size I need?

I have searched all over the place and can't find it. I tried eye-balling the size by taking the o-ring to Advance and the o-ring I got was too fat and I couldn't fit the line back in.

I am having some sort of leak, and I believe it is due to that o-ring. I have already replaced the master cylinder, but that didn't help. And when I look under the truck the only fluid is coming out around that fitment. When I pull out the plug on the transmission, it is mostly dry on the inside, but it is leaking fluid so bad that it doesn't ever disengage.

Thanks for the help!
 


gw33gp

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Doesn't the Ford dealer have them?
 

bernasty

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not around here apparently. they tried to sell me a slave cylinder though...
 

Doom's Day Custom

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check like a ace hardware or homedepot or lowes because they sell o-rings like that might fit!!!!
 

bernasty

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Last edited:

AgPete139

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Thread revival. I'm adding information to this issue.



My Repair Process:


O-RING: (O'Reilly's P/N #110 (correct) ---- used original O-ring ---- O'Reilly's P/N #111 (INCORRECT)

NOTE: I used a drop of oil to help get the o-ring and clutch line back in.




I've read that the master cylinder piston o-rings are 0.62" diameter (up to at least 2000), and 0.75" diameter o-ring for the newer models (2005+).


I ended up using a #110 o-ring from O'Reilly's which did the trick. This is for future reference for anyone having troubles with their clutch lines, bubbles, air, soft pedal, or bleed ing.


http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1223839&postcount=33

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1223844&postcount=34


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc




HNBR (green) O-Rings & Using Engine Vacuum to Pull Air Out:

I have no experience with the HNBR material in car systems. However, HNBR is known to be slightly better in corrosive environments, and is good to from low temperatures of -50*F up to 350*F.


I was playing around with my clutch system yesterday (it's a solid working system), and I tried to do a vacuum experiment on it, but I ended up sucking air INTO the system, not just pulling the current bubbles out.


By running an engine vacuum into the clutch system, the 15+ lbs of constant pressure started sucking too hard (that's not what he said, lol).


Bleeding using engine vacuum:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1289309#post1289309

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109908


I am trying to find another effective way to bleed this thing.


Anyways, I hope this helps any future readers.
 
Last edited:

sgkramar

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I'm pretty sure it's a 2 mm, 12mm ID, 16 mm OD o-ring. I took a micrometer and measured mine and the fitting and that seems to be the right size.

I use a small hand-operated vacuum pump to bleed the system -- works quite well as long as the air is in the slave cylinder and not the master.
 

rra022001

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Hello everyone - New to the Forum here. While I would normally introduce myself via the usual newbies/welcome thread, I figured I would revive this thread.
Being that EPDM based O-Rings are better suited for both glycol and silicone-based brake fluids, would it not make better sense to use EPDM o-rings?
 

superj

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welcome!! i am not sure, i don't remember which materials work better in what fluids but if that is what you found, for sure
 

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