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JohnnyO

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2020
Make / Model
Ranger
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2.3 EcoBoost
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
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1.5"
Tire Size
265/70-17
My credo
"220, 221, whatever it takes."
Normally a tach was an extra-cost option and most dealers like to keep the cost low, especially on a manual transmission vehicle that would primarily appeal to low-cost buyers. Most late-model cars have tachs though. My wife's Chrysler minivan has a tach.
 


Eddo Rogue

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1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
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31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
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Location
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Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
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OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
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31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
My '85 Bronco had 351w, C6 and a factory tach. I was into hot rodding at the time, and had to have a giant auto meter tach, so my Bronco ended up with two tachs.
 

Blmpkn

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Make / Model
Ford Bronco
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2.3 EcoBoost
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2.3
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Automatic
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4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
Tire Size
285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.

scotts90ranger

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Dayton Oregon
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1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
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2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Yeah, I think it's a cost thing, people wanted manual transmissions to save money so they skipped the tach option, auto trans cars usually have more options so they just throw it in...

That said, it's a fairly simple task to add in a tach, I just did it to my '97 a week and a half ago... I found a tech article on another Ranger board, I'll give the cliff notes version:

-Find a '95-01ish cluster with Tach (easiest to find on Explorers), they all seem to be 6k rpm so whatever... I got one from an '00 Explorer Limited... There's a simple latch on the PRND21 indicator on the cluster, I just cut the cable because it was 95F outside but would have been faster to hit the clip... your blockoff plate will go in easy.
-Pull off the lens, then pull the outer gauges out, just pull on the faces, they are a press fit, you aren't going to break them, then pull out the tach. Do the same with your cluster, get them set close together for the next step...
-Get yourself 4 wire jumpers with aligator clips on both ends, if you have to make your own make up two Y's instead of using 4 separate ones... also gather up a new AA battery.
-There's 4 solder tabs if you look at the back of the stepper motor for the speedo, connect a pair of clips to the top ones and a pair to the bottom ones, the top goes to positive on the battery, bottom to negative then note where on the speedo that goes, it'll likely be 70 to 71mph.
-Now take a fork (literally from the kitchen...) and pry the speedo needle off, now you can take out the 4 screws with a 5mm head that hold the speedo/odo to the face and you can put yours in the new face.
-Now hook up the wires again to the battery and while powered up push the speedo needle on half way, cycle the power a few times to check, once you are happy push it home.
-Now reassemble the cluster, take note of any different lights that this cluster might have, remove what you don't have for good measure, and now would be a GREAT time to change the backlight bulbs... my '97 didn't have a "check fuel cap" light on it's cluster and that came on for whatever reason, and didn't have a "check gauges" light and it comes on but not constantly...

It doesn't matter if it's a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder donor, I think my donor was a 5.0L and I put it on a 2.3L... there's a different pin in one of the connectors on the back, but being the original engine your wire is in the right place...

I didn't add a tach to mine because I needed it (it is nice to have since it's gutless in certain speed ranges), more of a curiosity thing so I can keep an eye on my engine speeds... might be able to tune my driving some for MPG... Plus it'll be WAY easier to teach my wife to drive a manual with some indication of engine speed... it's too dang quiet to just say "go till you can hear it"

Just in case it comes up in a search, the second gen dash is even easier to swap, you literally just take the speedo part from one cluster and put it in the other, you don't have to take the needle off... but you need to identify the right year range, IE '89-mid '92 then mid '92 to '94, and I think the 4.0L tach's are lower rpm...
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
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2WD
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It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
RPM stands for Revolutions Per Minute.
 

Fryedbm

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Ks
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Ford Ranger
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Eddo Rogue

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Messages
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Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,982
Reaction score
2,502
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,982
Reaction score
2,502
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
Yeah, I think it's a cost thing, people wanted manual transmissions to save money so they skipped the tach option, auto trans cars usually have more options so they just throw it in...

That said, it's a fairly simple task to add in a tach, I just did it to my '97 a week and a half ago... I found a tech article on another Ranger board, I'll give the cliff notes version:

-Find a '95-01ish cluster with Tach (easiest to find on Explorers), they all seem to be 6k rpm so whatever... I got one from an '00 Explorer Limited... There's a simple latch on the PRND21 indicator on the cluster, I just cut the cable because it was 95F outside but would have been faster to hit the clip... your blockoff plate will go in easy.
-Pull off the lens, then pull the outer gauges out, just pull on the faces, they are a press fit, you aren't going to break them, then pull out the tach. Do the same with your cluster, get them set close together for the next step...
-Get yourself 4 wire jumpers with aligator clips on both ends, if you have to make your own make up two Y's instead of using 4 separate ones... also gather up a new AA battery.
-There's 4 solder tabs if you look at the back of the stepper motor for the speedo, connect a pair of clips to the top ones and a pair to the bottom ones, the top goes to positive on the battery, bottom to negative then note where on the speedo that goes, it'll likely be 70 to 71mph.
-Now take a fork (literally from the kitchen...) and pry the speedo needle off, now you can take out the 4 screws with a 5mm head that hold the speedo/odo to the face and you can put yours in the new face.
-Now hook up the wires again to the battery and while powered up push the speedo needle on half way, cycle the power a few times to check, once you are happy push it home.
-Now reassemble the cluster, take note of any different lights that this cluster might have, remove what you don't have for good measure, and now would be a GREAT time to change the backlight bulbs... my '97 didn't have a "check fuel cap" light on it's cluster and that came on for whatever reason, and didn't have a "check gauges" light and it comes on but not constantly...

It doesn't matter if it's a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder donor, I think my donor was a 5.0L and I put it on a 2.3L... there's a different pin in one of the connectors on the back, but being the original engine your wire is in the right place...

I didn't add a tach to mine because I needed it (it is nice to have since it's gutless in certain speed ranges), more of a curiosity thing so I can keep an eye on my engine speeds... might be able to tune my driving some for MPG... Plus it'll be WAY easier to teach my wife to drive a manual with some indication of engine speed... it's too dang quiet to just say "go till you can hear it"

Just in case it comes up in a search, the second gen dash is even easier to swap, you literally just take the speedo part from one cluster and put it in the other, you don't have to take the needle off... but you need to identify the right year range, IE '89-mid '92 then mid '92 to '94, and I think the 4.0L tach's are lower rpm...
Or just get an auto meter. Way more fun.
 

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
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Messages
8,024
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Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Less fun trying to get one to hook up to a dual plug 2.3L... as racscan said above somewhere, was a pain, plus it will fit in the dash, so it should be in the dash, the only add on gauges I want are ones that aren't available to fit in stock locations :). Like my '90, in the dead spot next to the middle dash vents where the 4x4 buttons would be is where I put my boost gauge, I veer from there with the manual oil pressure gauge that is in a single gauge pod on the pillar, but it's down at the bottom where it's not in the way... I don't like junk in my line of sight... the wife and her visor flipping drives me bonkers sometimes...
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Joined
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Messages
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Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.

lil_Blue_Ford

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95
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4.9L
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Manual
Yeah, I think it's a cost thing, people wanted manual transmissions to save money so they skipped the tach option, auto trans cars usually have more options so they just throw it in...

That said, it's a fairly simple task to add in a tach, I just did it to my '97 a week and a half ago... I found a tech article on another Ranger board, I'll give the cliff notes version:

-Find a '95-01ish cluster with Tach (easiest to find on Explorers), they all seem to be 6k rpm so whatever... I got one from an '00 Explorer Limited... There's a simple latch on the PRND21 indicator on the cluster, I just cut the cable because it was 95F outside but would have been faster to hit the clip... your blockoff plate will go in easy.
-Pull off the lens, then pull the outer gauges out, just pull on the faces, they are a press fit, you aren't going to break them, then pull out the tach. Do the same with your cluster, get them set close together for the next step...
-Get yourself 4 wire jumpers with aligator clips on both ends, if you have to make your own make up two Y's instead of using 4 separate ones... also gather up a new AA battery.
-There's 4 solder tabs if you look at the back of the stepper motor for the speedo, connect a pair of clips to the top ones and a pair to the bottom ones, the top goes to positive on the battery, bottom to negative then note where on the speedo that goes, it'll likely be 70 to 71mph.
-Now take a fork (literally from the kitchen...) and pry the speedo needle off, now you can take out the 4 screws with a 5mm head that hold the speedo/odo to the face and you can put yours in the new face.
-Now hook up the wires again to the battery and while powered up push the speedo needle on half way, cycle the power a few times to check, once you are happy push it home.
-Now reassemble the cluster, take note of any different lights that this cluster might have, remove what you don't have for good measure, and now would be a GREAT time to change the backlight bulbs... my '97 didn't have a "check fuel cap" light on it's cluster and that came on for whatever reason, and didn't have a "check gauges" light and it comes on but not constantly...

It doesn't matter if it's a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder donor, I think my donor was a 5.0L and I put it on a 2.3L... there's a different pin in one of the connectors on the back, but being the original engine your wire is in the right place...

I didn't add a tach to mine because I needed it (it is nice to have since it's gutless in certain speed ranges), more of a curiosity thing so I can keep an eye on my engine speeds... might be able to tune my driving some for MPG... Plus it'll be WAY easier to teach my wife to drive a manual with some indication of engine speed... it's too dang quiet to just say "go till you can hear it"

Just in case it comes up in a search, the second gen dash is even easier to swap, you literally just take the speedo part from one cluster and put it in the other, you don't have to take the needle off... but you need to identify the right year range, IE '89-mid '92 then mid '92 to '94, and I think the 4.0L tach's are lower rpm...
Why not swap the entire cluster? Feel like I’m missing something here, lol. My choptop didn’t have a tach, I found a Ranger in the junkyard with a tach and the same style cluster and just swapped the entire thing. Had to swap the gear indicator for the block off plate, but it was easy as you please.
 

Fryedbm

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
276
Reaction score
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Location
Ks
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Why not swap the entire cluster? Feel like I’m missing something here, lol. My choptop didn’t have a tach, I found a Ranger in the junkyard with a tach and the same style cluster and just swapped the entire thing. Had to swap the gear indicator for the block off plate, but it was easy as you please.
So wouldn't there be something I would need to connect as far as the tach tho. Do I need to make sure the junk yard gives me some gears for it or something?
 

DILLARD000

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Location
Earth
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2001 Ford
Make / Model
SportTracJob2
Engine Size
V6~4.0L~SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I gender identify as a potato thank you very much!
Baked, Mashed, Augratin, Chip, String, Patty, Bread, or Sweet = BMACSPBS ?
 

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