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Not able to accelerate after about 25 to 30


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Sorry, you are using a TFI system with distributor, not an EDIS/ICM so it would work

ICM means distributorless to me, with coil packs, but can mean any electronic spark system so my mistake
Your good lol I'm just trying to figure out what on my project isn't working in sync with stuff lol It could any of the bunch of stuff I've done, there's been stuff that I've fixed on it and it made it start working better, I pulled the baro sensor from the jy maybe need a new one, that does affect my idle pretty bad here when unplugged, I originally had the rangers but it caused high idle when vaccum was applied
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022
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Idk how many times I've come to this site for research an helpful studies lol Ron, I've seen your posts all over the place super helpful dude on here man, I really appreciate everyone's input and help on it lol not alot of people around here do the kind of thing Ive done, maybe only seen one other 5.0 ranger here an it looked like a 96ish model
 

Roert42

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Stupid question, but what's your fuel pressure look like at idle then with raised rpm? Just enough pressure/ volume to run ok with no load, but lugs under load?
 
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Could my vss not be compatible with the v8? I'm not sure were it is honestly but Im not using the t5 unfortunately cause I couldn't find a tail housing for it
 
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Stupid question, but what's your fuel pressure look like at idle then with raised rpm? Just enough pressure/ volume to run ok with no load, but lugs under load?
I have a new stock in tank pump cause my old one was killed by the fuel after sitting for a while outside that was a year ago I replaced it, I haven't checked the fuel pressure as I don't have a tool for it but will get one
 
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I have a new stock in tank pump cause my old one was killed by the fuel after sitting for a while outside that was a year ago I replaced it, I haven't checked the fuel pressure as I don't have a tool for it but will get one
Its not a stupid question lol
 
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Stupid question, but what's your fuel pressure look like at idle then with raised rpm? Just enough pressure/ volume to run ok with no load, but lugs under load?
Itll idle fine, rev great, reverse feels harder now after rewiring the injectors and it'll go through first then about the end of second gear it sounds like it bogs an jerks the truck, I'll push the clutch in an it'll smooth out, it mostly did it before in right after getting into third gear
 
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Imhp, I think the po I got the motor from lied about it being all good, It had a blown head gasket when I first got it started and stuff seemed more weather worn than a year sitting in a barn, I think he thought it messed up and found a deal on a 351 cause that's what he said he put back in the truck, it was weird that engines main harness I got had been cut right before the square plug an the exhaust manifold had been cut into by the bolt flang, can't do much now but fix what's there thoug, it was only 135 bucks for the motor so
 
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I checked my vaccum lines for leaks no leaks In that system, maybe mh ignition coil isn't producing enough voltage for the v8 at higher idle?
 
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Update when I was doing my vacuum leak test, I started the engine and it sounded rough at first then smoothed out pretty smooth on the idle as well
 

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An ignition coil is an ignition coil, so the number of cylinders doesn't matter, 4, 6, 8, 10 would all use the same coil and produce "enough" spark

You could have a "bad" coil, you can't really test them, well you can test if they are "real bad" but can NOT test if they are good

So if you think its a spark issue then swap coils

In an 8cyl engine the Coil sparks 4 times per 1 revolution of the crank
So at 800RPMs the coil is sparking 3,200 times PER MINUTE
At 3,000rpm the coil is sparking 12,000 times per minute, that's 200 TIMES A SECOND

A failing coil can have a "delayed" recovery, causing misfires at higher RPMs
Coil needs time to "recharge" between sparks, doesn't need much but needs some
So its certainly possible for a failing coil to cause your issue
 

84tony

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You might try cleaning or replacing your fuel injectors. When I first got my truck running, it idled good and revved good but when I took it for its first test drive it would hardly pull its self down the road. After I replaced the fuel injectors it ran drove like it should. The original fuel injectors had been sitting around for several years and were probably gummed up with old gas.
 
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Yea I'm gonna clean em today, I hadnt cleaned an I can imagine they're pretty gunked up
 
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Ran some injector cleaner through it doesn't seem to have helped much, noticeable now after warm up it has a shake and it feels rougher in reverse still, kinda like something isn't firing off all the way, I do have a backfire when I rev it on the passenger side, sounds like one of the rear cylinders isn't firing all the way or something, I'm gonna go over all my stuff again, but some signs point to the coil not working properly, but I had one go out in the past it just wouldn't start the engine though
 
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Update, I do have a ho cam in the block, I tried the non ho order and it did not work, I think I need to go back in to the wires and rewire them again since it feels rougher now than before I did that, especially In reverse, the motor has a noticable shake to it and that occured after rewiring the injector layout
 


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