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Non Ranger issue


James Morse

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I dunno, how can a hose I get for $7 be $75? It doesn't make sense. I can get a set of rotors and pads for under $100, they want $350. It's a big difference. What irks me is they are making tons on parts.
I hear everything you are saying and about the warranty and so on that is the risk you take if you bring your own parts but that's a $600 risk (diff in parts) - I save $600 so let's say I have to bring it back and they charge me, I think I'm still ahead. Plus like you say it shouldn't need warranty.
Also hear what you are saying about amortizing the cost but what if you don't keep it. Then you don't have payback on it in a sale.
Well absolutely, me, I'd never scrap what seems otherwise ok just for brakes, of course not. But it's not mine, also, if I could predict this is the only fix for 5 years, great, but chances are with these miles there will be other stuff going wrong.
Don't know what her dad had done to it but I think, not much other than regular maintenance, but just don't know.
What you are talking about here is value to me (her) of it vs value on the open market - two different things really. In a way its value is what you -don't- have to spend on new vehicle, if you follow.
She has no vehicle right now that she trusts to take 1,000 mile trips to see her son/grandkids so it's like everything I'm trying to do for work stopped dead until I hash this out one way or the other and I hate saying "do this" then have it come back and bite me. So from that standpoint, yeah, if she pays the $1,000, it should be good, just, that's a chunk of change for what I see as not a grand worth of parts/work.
To me I'd rather see parts at a decent cost, then jack up your hourly rate if you have to do that. I don't argue with $100/hr or more for labor because they have to buy lift, shop, etc, etc etc. It's the parts that's really bugging me.
 


James Morse

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yeah I missed that about the hub.
I will ask around and maybe put ad for retired Lexus/Toyota mechanic.
THANKS.
 

RobbieD

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The parts price doesn't seem crazy. Don't compare it RA and think you are getting ripped off. They got to buy the parts from a local parts house who has them in stock, not waiting three days for shipping.

Most shops mark up parts to help take care of some of the overhead. Pay the guy to answer the phone, call the parts house, make the quote, ect.

An independent shop is much more likely to take your parts, and do the install. Biggest thing, if there is a problem, and you buy the parts from them they will eat the labor on a comeback. If you bring the parts, you got to deal with the warranty on your own and pay for the labor to do twice.

Not that there should be anything that needs warranty on a brake job.



Even if you pay $1200 for brakes, spread out over 4/5 years until the next brake job, That's $20/25 a month. Hell of a lot cheaper then any car payment. It's seems laughable to consider scraping a car just because it needs a brake job.


Now if there was enough other issues to the point I was only going to drive it another few months until the inspection ran out, that's another story.

Very valid points, which I agree with.

When you use RockAuto for price comparison, put the item(s) in a cart and price shipping by punching in your ZIP code. THAT is what your cost actually is. Multiple warehouse locations really jacks the shipping up, too.

For me, after shipping, RA costs usually aren't different enough from the local big-box parts store, or even the local independent store, to make it worth the hassle.
 

Roert42

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Price it out and compare it to Napa or something, and actually look at parts they have in stock. That will give you a much better idea of how much they are actually marking up the parts.


Like I said before, a job shop like this doesn't normally have the luxury of shopping around for the best price on parts and waiting a week for them to come in. They call up their parts house of choice and get whatever brand they have in stock that will fit, tomorrow at the latest.
 

Roert42

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Here is what I can find from a local parts house. They also have one listed at $45, but it doesn't let you order it online, so maybe special order, has to come directly from China or something. Just says call for more information.

napa.png
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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holy moses.
More Information for DORMAN H380923 (rockauto.com)
More Information for RAYBESTOS BH380923 (rockauto.com)

this is what I'm talking about, the most expensive hose RA has is like $27. It's not like they are slightly different that's 3x different.
I understand about the shipping and timing and multiple ship locations but I doubt very much shipping would be $50. Other parts that are heavier, yes, there's shipping, but you can buy a lot of shipping for the $600 (roughly) difference.
Replied to one ad in C-list with inquiry. I think I'll ask local TRS member if he knows a shop he trusts.
I'm just saying, this isn't a small difference, if it were, I'd just do it at the expensive place.
I get what you are saying... they're not marking it up compared to what I'd pay at NAPA. Although I suspect they get wholesale prices from NAPA etc.
And yes if parts are out of stock that can suck.
I think a lot of the difference in cost, if you go with the commercial shops, you just have to say, that's the cost of having it done quick and warranteed and not worry about it. Kind of like, money talks, bs walks.
And while I'm chasing this I'm getting not much else done. It almost makes me want to just drive it in the shop, put it up on stands, and go for it because I could have had the thing half apart by now, eh?
Someday I do hope to have a lift and compressor etc then I wouldn't mind at all doing it. Not that lack of those stop me, just, you know, it's tons easier.
I could also just do the driver side but if the vehicle is to be kept a while that would be dumb.
thanks again.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Hooked up w/ one guy who's coming to look at it. Also got some local recommends from TRS member.
He (car fix guy) was like you probably don't need hoses that kinda scared me. So will just see what he says and get a feel for it.
I need somebody hungry. He says he has regular day job and does simple fixes like brakes, tune-up to get a little extra money.
I'm flyin' blind. I think I can get some kind of feel from seeing/talking to him. This is not a horribly complicated job afaik.
I don't mind paying a person decent money for decent work. It's mainly, will he let me source my own parts (I'd guess yes) and can he do it.
I think if I were going with Firestone etc. I'd tell them just do the one side which would be stupid, to cut cost, but if I can get my own parts I'd likely do everything both sides.
The labor cost wasn't an issue with Firestone just the parts. They wanted like $250 labor, and if you asked me, will you do it for $250 I'd say hell no.
Versus if it was the Ranger I'd do it but that's totally different because it's mine, I'm familiar with it, and, I don't even want somebody else working on it.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I wouldn’t be all that afraid to tackle the brake job, it’s not all that complicated. But while I don’t have a garage yet, or a lift, I do have a lot of tools. And you’re replacing everything. The only worry would be getting the brake hard line out of the end of the hose. Since you’re more outside of the rust belt, that shouldn’t be a huge concern.

Firestone is using Advance Auto parts in their quote. I recognize the part numbers and descriptions. So comparing to RA isn’t exactly fair. Very few garages let you bring your own parts because if something isn’t right or there’s a problem with a part or whatever, they can’t tie up a lift in their shop for days while you make it right. It’s time vs money. So to be fair to them, price out what Advance would charge for the parts. They are using the Gold series of pads which is their higher grade. Firestone (and most garages) will get some sort of discount on the parts over retail, but as long as they are charging retail or close to it, they technically aren’t ripping you off because unless you buy from RA or something (which like I said isn’t exactly a fair comparison), the parts will cost you retail price if you did it yourself. Pre-Covid I’d say those prices sound ridiculously high. Now days that might just be what Advance charges.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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You got it for free! Putting a $1,000 into it is nothing in the grand scheme...
 

1990RangerinSK

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Yikes. look at these parts prices. Hose $75? RockAuto says $7. Etc. It's over $800 in parts and I was thinking at RockAuto maybe more like $200.
Labor is $250 which isn't too horrible but not cheap; if they would do it for just labor and I get parts that would be acceptable but they won't.
Looks like back to square one.
Edmunds says the car is worth like 1500.
I think that's the hit on miles. And that's assuming brakes were fixed (did not include brake problem in the appraisal). So your net if you have Firestone fix is then sell it is $500.
Something's not right or am I just running up against, this is old.
I can (1) tell her, that's the cost, do it (I have a hard time doing this because as I see it that's a total ripoff on parts) or (2) find a shop that'll take parts I supply or (3) tell her sell as-is to somebody who doesn't mind fixing it. Option of me doing it, I just don't see it, I have other projects, so let's say I got all the parts and did fix it and saved her $800. Would I "charge her" for labor? Highly unlikely. So there's nothing in it for me and potential downside I run into a problem with the thing half done (not sure what that would be, but seems like "simple" repairs often have a glitch in there somewhere). Yes it would be a nice thing for me to do it and if I were 30 probably I would but when you get older time gets more valuable.
Argh. So I need to find a guy I trust to do it, and how does that happen, I don't know. And then you have no warranty or anything on the work I imagine.
I could put an ad in C-list. Not sure where to go from here.
View attachment 90288
Ugh. I'm really reluctant to wade in here, but I'm going to anyway. You've got your head wrapped around the cost (ok, that's fine, I'd want to do it for as low a cost as possible, too). Then you turn around and say that there's nothing in it for you, doing the job yourself.

Friend, typically husbands don't charge their wives for doing work. And, as a (previously) married man, I take great offense to the fact that there's nothing in it for you if you do it yourself.
  1. Your wife will have her vehicle back
  2. Your wife's vehicle will be safe to drive
  3. Your wife will be happy because she can do what she needs to do.
  4. Her kids and grandkids will be happy because she can visit them.
  5. That vehicle probably has sentimental value for her, because it was her dad's.
I don't know about you, but if I was in your shoes, I'd look at the value of those five things (PRICELESS!), and if I can afford to have a reputable shop do the work, I would take the vehicle in without flinching. and since I'm driving it to take it to the shop, I'd toss her my keys (Have you sold the Mazda yet? Maybe she can drive it while you're stalling on getting her Lexus fixed for her).
 

James Morse

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@1990RangerinSK - yeah, I said, that charging wife for work isn't something that would happen ("highly unlikely"). I'll tell you where that comment came from though. I had one ex-wife, I did all maintenance/fixes on her Lumina, and never got a word of thanks, saved her probably hundreds if not thousands in labor. A lot of time and effort and no appreciation shown nor appreciation of savings. You can say "you're a team - it saves you both" but that's in an ideal world and not all marriages are so nice. If they were they wouldn't be exes. In that particular bad case I described it's like there was totally no realization of what things cost or anything. Not even a "thank you". So what you were hearing there is some residual feelings about it, came out of that saying to myself that's it, I'm never working on woman's car again, they have money, they can pay for it. I've softened somewhat about that and I do some things; a lot of times it's just taking them to inspection, taking for tires, minor (really minor) fixes, checking them sometimes that fluids are ok and don't see leaks, etc. Or like current thing - I'm not doing it, not because I can't, probably, but it needs to not be sitting in my shop (that I need for other things) for days, or have me screw something up. And, current other half has some appreciation. Like, I'm working on this, and she says "you are a good man" which, maybe I am, maybe I'm not, but that is appreciation expressed and noted, and it's not manipulation, she just gets totally stressed about vehicles and everything that happens is a major crisis so I tell her, it's fixable, don't stress.
Not sure about sentimental value, maybe, since her dad has been in/out of hospital a lot recently so you know where that is going sooner or later. Anyway, your points are all good, and - yeah - happy wife, happy life.
Yeah she can take the Mazda in a second, no problem, she just doesn't like it and really it might be not your first choice for thousand mile trips.

@alwaysFlOoReD - I totally agree here too. This is part of the deal, every time something happens she's like "I have to buy a newer car" then she starts looking at new electrics (tax credit application on them is wacky to me) and decides, ok, that's not happening. It's some kind of worry, she says, this broke, it's old, something else will break and I'm like yup no doubt something will, but if they are fixed as they come up it's still way cheaper than buying new (or used, for that matter). Or I say, what's the worst that can happen, you have to Uber or rent a car to get home and they truck the vehicle somewhere. That doesn't kill you. Having an unsafe vehicle can kill you, so, let's fix it, one way or the other.
She can take the Mazda, I offered, she doesn't like it, and, might not be your first choice for a really long trip. She has the '09 Rabbit which is pretty good mechanically except it, according to Jiffy Lube, needs a CV so that's fine for in-town short trips but I'd never take on a trip that's asking for trouble since when it lets go, you're stuck. That's next on the agenda to fix.

There's a value in going to a commercial shop I get that. But if can save something, and get decent results, I try to do that. Whether you can afford it is to some extent a side question. It reminds me of if you ask some people with a lot of money, why they are so freaking cheap, why are so you darn cheap when you have so much money, they say "that's how I got the money by being cheap". Then there's penny-wise and pound foolish, too.

So whether it's $500 or $1000 or I say, well, that wouldn't even pay your sales tax on a new car so keep that in mind.

Anways - whether I do the actual work or just help with getting it done and it reduces the stress on her which reduces it on me.

And after all the time I have in it, in retrospect, it probably would have been smart to just go with the high price, heh.

No I didn't sell the Mazda yet, haven't really tried, it costs me nothing to own right now and nice to have in case I do have to do anything on the XLT (don't know of anything right now that it needs). Don't know what market is doing, probably lousy now. I have to be realistic about what it'll fetch. For somebody it'd be a great truck. Of course in a sense it does cost me to own the Mazda because of the sale price foregone, whatever that is.

Thanks, this is a ton of good info, I'll post separate as to where I am with it

As to the Mazda, there's part of me that says, she doesn't like it, but never drove it, and chances are once she did, she'd love it.... but that's conjecture. Who knows, some things have no explanations.
 

James Morse

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So the guy came and looked at it. Jacked up front, checked wheel bearing, it's fine, no play at all. I didn't do the no-brake test, actually kind of hard to do because everything close to the house is hills and grades, need brake just to get out of the driveway. But other half took Rabbit to store after I jump started it, of course it didn't charge enough (it had sat for weeks or months, battery eventually drains) and I had to go jump it again, took Lexus, that was the 'test' and got back (2 mile round trip) and wheel on Lexus was already hot. When jacked up you couldn't turn the wheel at all, stuck. So caliper clearly not working, or something not working. Talked to him a while to get a feel does he know what he's doing. He's got an '01 Suburban daily driver and works out of town on jobs so he must be able to keep it running. Frankly it was a sweet ride, gigantic, and looked basically flawless (body/interior) except needs new driver seat. He was telling me various things he did on it. So I asked him how much if I get the parts and he says let me see how rusty and says not too bad (vehicle lived at Cape Cod and partly in FL - 2 residences). He's saying $170 to swap out the parts and that includes new pads (only) in the rear, they are low, not critical, but he was saying 150 to do the front so I figure yeah, do the backs (rotors are fine there) for 20.

Labor at Firestone wasn't what I'd call excessive. He's cheaper by something. And I kind of like the idea of helping somebody get a few extra bucks as long as I have some confidence in them and I get decent results. He's done brakes a lot and it's not that complicated.

About parts he says, or suggests, this: get ceramic pads and semi-coated rotors. get the hoses. probably fine to get these from RockAuto or 1A or wherever - they should fit and be fine. As to the caliper he suggests, get it local, because if it doesn't fit you can do something about it right then and not have another week turnaround to return it. He says some vehicles you could get 1 piston front, 2 rear, or 1 and 1, or 2 and 2, etc so VIN might come into it.
That makes sense. Also he noted that then you get your core charges back right away. So I think he has a couple valid points there. I asked him do you know PB Blaster and he says yes he uses that. Minor thing, just, anyone who takes apart rusty stuff a lot should know PB. Anyway, that seems like this isn't a hack, I'm ok with him doing it. You take off parts, you put on parts, you bleed it.

Of course then I'm back to the same thing on parts at least as to the calipers but while this isn't a rush job, I don't want it dragging on forever. So my next step is see what I can do on pricing locally and I might find out, I can't do much better on parts than at the commercial shop if some or all are local. Frankly at this point if I could get stuff local, today, and get this in progress, I'm tempted to do that and maybe then I don't save so much and in the end I may say, you were right, I should have just told her, pay the $1050 and be done with it. To me there's some value in dealing with an individual.

So now I'm back to online searches for parts local so you could say, where's the savings now? We'll see. I look at it this way, even if the savings aren't huge, I'm still 'making it happen' and that takes the stress off her. She's appreciative, and she doesn't bug me about where it's at, and whatever might be saved in dollars, she sees that. In simple math, 1050 (commercial shop) less 170 (his labor) is $880. Surely the parts cannot be that much, (I hope) so anything less than 880 on parts, is savings. Trying to hash it out today so I can get back to normal stuff.

Thanks for all the help.
 

Eddo Rogue

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I let my buddy my spare car (Ford Fusion 3.0) and he did me a favor by taking it to jiffy lube. It hasn't ran the same since, and started giving me problems.
 

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It sounds like you probably found somebody to do it.

I understand wanting to save money; I'm arguably the world's biggest cheapskate.

Just get it done. YOUR stress level drops considerably once it's done.

If it were me- shop local and go with best price for the quality. Get the parts in hand ASAP.

Set it up with the guy, as soon as he can do it. People's circumstances can change, and if that happens you've gone backwards.

Good luck. You'll feel much better after it's done.
 

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