Non Marking Wax brands and types.


Bgunner

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Since I'm prepping the truck for pictures I figured I'd wax it as well but after buffing out the scratches, and I found my wax in the buffer box that I could not find the other day, I noticed and remembered that this stuff leaves white residue on the black trim. I don't want this residue in the pictures and figured if anyone would know if there was a wax that did not do this you guys here would have found it by now, unless it is a new product.

What waxes that you know of do not leave the white residue on black trim?

Obviously I can wait till after the pics to wax it but I still wont want the residue then either.
 


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Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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Turtle wax ice.
 

Bgunner

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Turtle wax ice.
I have one of the ice products and love it between waxing but it is a polish not a wax. I didn't know that they made a "wax" in the ice as well.



Off to the internets to see who has it locally.

Thanks.
 

Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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Yep they make an ice spray wax and ice paste wax, neither leave white residue.
 

Ranger850

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May seem a little "extra" but you could tape off the black plastic bits with painters tape.









I do.
 

Bgunner

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I found the Ice spray at the local O'Reilly's. I'ts been applied.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Since I'm prepping the truck for pictures I figured I'd wax it as well but after buffing out the scratches, and I found my wax in the buffer box that I could not find the other day, I noticed and remembered that this stuff leaves white residue on the black trim. I don't want this residue in the pictures and figured if anyone would know if there was a wax that did not do this you guys here would have found it by now, unless it is a new product.

What waxes that you know of do not leave the white residue on black trim?

Obviously I can wait till after the pics to wax it but I still wont want the residue then either.
My college years job was detailer for a well known old timer who did show cars for pebble beach, porsche parade, petersen museum etc...I got to shine up some very expensive paint. I could go into a whole lecture on detailing, but in regards to your specific request, best answer is avoid the trim. Our boss would rip us a new one if we waxed the trim, or cracks.
We used to first apply paste wax but steering way clear of cracks and trim, then go back with liquid wax used sparingly for the edges, nooks and crannies.

Sometimes a little tire shine or formula 2001 will black it out again. Dont use armor all.

Also the wax part of detailing is more so to protect the paint. Things like clay bars and rubbing compounds clean and flatten the paint (and sometimes fix scratches). But its the polishes and glazes that really make the paint look wet and shiny. I called what we did the 7 layer burrito process lol....I narrowed it down though for my own use.... Usually do clay bar, polish, glaze, paste wax, liquid wax.

Wooden bbq skewer sticks help getting in tight spots without scratching.

Never use terrycloth. Microfiber or polishing cloth only (we called em diaper rags lol).

Lastly if you are trying to avoid swirl marks, avoid using a circular pattern. We were forced to learn rubbing in a straight pattern, criss- crossing direction. Swirl marks were the devil around there.

Oh and btw we did everything by hand (and a lot of rags). Be very careful if you are using a buffer, and make sure it is not a cheapo or else swirl marks or worse could happen.
 

Bgunner

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If it's not broken Don't Fix It!
My college years job was detailer for a well known old timer who did show cars for pebble beach, porsche parade, petersen museum etc...I got to shine up some very expensive paint. I could go into a whole lecture on detailing, but in regards to your specific request, best answer is avoid the trim. Our boss would rip us a new one if we waxed the trim, or cracks.
We used to first apply paste wax but steering way clear of cracks and trim, then go back with liquid wax used sparingly for the edges, nooks and crannies.

Sometimes a little tire shine or formula 2001 will black it out again. Dont use armor all.

Also the wax part of detailing is more so to protect the paint. Things like clay bars and rubbing compounds clean and flatten the paint (and sometimes fix scratches). But its the polishes and glazes that really make the paint look wet and shiny. I called what we did the 7 layer burrito process lol....I narrowed it down though for my own use.... Usually do clay bar, polish, glaze, paste wax, liquid wax.

Wooden bbq skewer sticks help getting in tight spots without scratching.

Never use terrycloth. Microfiber or polishing cloth only (we called em diaper rags lol).

Lastly if you are trying to avoid swirl marks, avoid using a circular pattern. We were forced to learn rubbing in a straight pattern, criss- crossing direction. Swirl marks were the devil around there.

Oh and btw we did everything by hand (and a lot of rags). Be very careful if you are using a buffer, and make sure it is not a cheapo or else swirl marks or worse could happen.

I've learned most of those tricks you have mentioned and before asking the question today buffed out a few scratches. With a bad shoulder rubbing for a long time is the enemy and I'm one handed at the moment from using the Ice. My paint is screwed to a point anyways, 26+ years old with chips and to primer and past scratches, but I try to keep it looking good and I'm not spending 12 hours detailing a daily driver. If I was 20 years younger than sure I'd sit there for those hours but now its a hobby and to keep it looking and running good takes a lot longer than it really should for me.

The BBQ skewers is a good idea and didn't know about it so I have learned something new. I'll have to apply that at some point, Thanks (y)

My side rear window trim is degrading and rough as all heck so getting near it with white wax leaves it there for around a year or more. I'm not sure even your sugestion on how to get it back to black would work on it because of its condition. It may work on the mirrors though.
 

Eddo Rogue

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I've learned most of those tricks you have mentioned and before asking the question today buffed out a few scratches. With a bad shoulder rubbing for a long time is the enemy and I'm one handed at the moment from using the Ice. My paint is screwed to a point anyways, 26+ years old with chips and to primer and past scratches, but I try to keep it looking good and I'm not spending 12 hours detailing a daily driver. If I was 20 years younger than sure I'd sit there for those hours but now its a hobby and to keep it looking and running good takes a lot longer than it really should for me.

The BBQ skewers is a good idea and didn't know about it so I have learned something new. I'll have to apply that at some point, Thanks (y)

My side rear window trim is degrading and rough as all heck so getting near it with white wax leaves it there for around a year or more. I'm not sure even your sugestion on how to get it back to black would work on it because of its condition. It may work on the mirrors though.
Haha yes this was 17 years ago and I doubt I would have the time or energy for a 12 hr buff job nowadays...

I have had luck rubbing tire gel stuff on black plastic/rubber, also shoe shining stuff might work. I've used those foam shoe buff pads on some stuff with luck (black interior trim). And yea it was my mirrors, haven't tired window trim.

Same issue here going on with my extra cab window trim, and some weatherstrip is pretty hammered...thought of a few possible fixes, like maybe masking off and coating w/ latex paint or maybe plastidip... idk still brainstorming it. My body shop guy suggested replacing them but I doubt that's possible.

There is rubber,vinyl,leather stuff out there too, but I haven't tried it...The old detail shop boss had some secret stuff that actually worked. He was very anti armor all, because it did seem to haze everything out

You may know of this one too, but as a non abrasive rubbing compound, we would use blue magic on a polish rag sprayed down with fantastik, got out fine scratches easily without adding more...
 

Bgunner

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Yours is a 93, mines a 94 and I can get the new rubbers for around the windows so they are replaceable but I have never done one of those type of windows so it would be a learning experience for me to swap them out.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
Yours is a 93, mines a 94 and I can get the new rubbers for around the windows so they are replaceable but I have never done one of those type of windows so it would be a learning experience for me to swap them out.
Hey that's good new for me then...I will probably let my body shop guys replace them lol, or my upholstery guy.

One side window was kinda loose on the non hinge end, and when I had the headliner redone, the upholstery guy was able to pull it in tighter, it worked out great.
 

Eddo Rogue

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where did you find the replacements? oem or jc whitney?
 

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Almost all of the new "nano" waxes and ceramic coatings will not leave a residue. Seems only the older types with carnuba will do that.
To get the residue off your black trim, get some Mr Clean Magic Erasers and a bottle of Mothers Back To Black.
Squirt a bit on the eraser and scrub the area. Won't scratch the trim and will usually remove the residue.
You can also use some Dow Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Cleaner on the Eraser. Spray it on the area and scrub it with the eraser. Bubbles won't hurt paint or plastic.
After the parts are clean use some good plastic/vinyl/rubber protectant on them, like 303 Protectant. Don't use any type of silicone base product, and be aware that many of the "shiny" tire stuff has petroleum in it...worst thing for plastic/vinyl/rubber.
Same goes for the black plastic/rubber trim around the windows...use the Black on an Eraser and scrub the area. It will take off a lot of that dried "crusty" stuff on the trim. May not make it
look like new, but it will look much better.
 
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