No start after timing chain replacement

[600$04Ranger]

That's a bummer! I pulled mine 4 times before getting everything right. Almost gave up after number two but I'm stubborn and didn't like the idea of walking away defeated. There's a channel on YouTube that does a pretty solid tutorial on the timing repair. But it sounds like you already know what you're doing, are using the right tools, and will get it right next time. As far as doing the rear timing without pulling the engine I can't say it's not possible. Maybe you could try fixing it with a partial pull? Instead of taking it completely out of the engine compartment just lifting it high enough to clear the firewall? Probably a dumb idea. I'm rooting for you!

 

[Sjp1]

I recently went through this same situation with my 2010 4.0 Sohc. I had almost given up trying to figure out what was going on when I found this post. I even bought a Ford VCM2 and the IDS software, the only benefit to the VCM2 was that it showed that the sync PID was no, one of the Ford manual diagnostic steps, which didn't really explain why I had no spark but had injector pulse. I replaced the balancer with the same type of machined CKP wheel, after reading TDI's post, and it started instantly, runs like a watch now. I hope that posting this can keep someone else from having to go through the expense and misery of trying to diagnose the same problem.

 

[TDI Ranger]

I hate you had the same issue, but I'm glad you found this and you were able to resolve the issue. I gave up and towed the 2011 to a Ford dealer. They missed it too. Now I have 2 extra PCM's I don't need. They made it right though. I'm only out the cost of parts. As of this moment I still haven't had time to do anything to the 11' because of other more important projects.

I haven't contacted Cloyes yet. This appears to be widespread problem. They need to recall all of these kits. It only happens with the sheet metal balancers. I'm approaching 5k miles with the same kit on my 03'. There were no starting issues.

 

[TDI Ranger]

Ok, here we are a year later. I pulled the engine again. This time I went about it a different way and had a much easier time. I removed the exhaust and the engine mounts and lowered the engine to the cross member providing access to the top bolts on the transmission.

I removed the rear timing components to look at the spacer. The tapered end was facing towards the front of the engine. So it looks like I installed it correctly. I tried inserting it backwards. The spacer looks like it would rub the oil pump gears if it did. I'm going to measure the i.d. , it may be tapered.

So at this point the only thing I can speculate on why the cam failed was the way I torqued the rear jackshaft bolt. I used the cam stop to hold everything, rather than the special tool, because I didn't have one at the time. I must have damaged the cam.
I found a few soft lash adjusters so I'm replacing all of them. Hopefully attempt # 2 will go better.

 

[TDI Ranger]

Well. I got the new cam installed. Replaced all the lash adjusters and retimed the motor. I started installing the roller followers on the left hand head, then started with the right head and ran into a issue. The first roller follower was loose and then another when the valve spring was released. My fears were confirmed with the leak down tester. Valves bent when the cam broke... A leak down should have been the first thing I did, but I really didn't think there would have been damage.

The engine has 194k miles and does not have the best leak down report, but I'm sure it will still run for a while if it was fixed. At this point I'm going to find a reman or another engine since I cannot seem buy parts to rebuild this one.

 

[TDI Ranger]

The truck is finally running. I found an explorer with a good running engine. Once the engine was pulled, it was stripped to the bare long block. Someone previous had broken one of the exhaust manifold studs off in the head. While removing the manifold I managed to break off another myself, despite heating the nut with the torch. After giving the engine a good power wash I proceeded to extract the two broken studs. I was very lucky to remove one with just a left hand drill bit and the other required a eze-out.
I removed the upper and lower oil pans and the timing cover. I gave everything a good clean up and inspection. It was put back together with new seals and gaskets. The block was painted and then all of the ranger ancillaries were transferred to the new engine.
I guess only because I have had to pull the engine so many times, it went back in with no trouble.
I have about 50 miles on the truck so far. It runs, drives, and shifts great.