2.3L ('83-'97) No spark

[Drift4Banger]

Hey guys. New poster here, ive had a hand full of the late 90s DIS rangers. But this is my first one with a distributor. But anyways its an 86 2.3 gasser. And the clutch went out. So pulled tranny, replaced clutch, reinstalled tranny. Now itll crank all day. I definitely smell the fuel, can audibly hear fuel pump priming. Not getting any spark. Pulled wire of top off distributor from coil and im getting nothing. Could this be a ground issue from the one down by the starter. Or anything along those lines. Any help would be appiciated

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Is the distributor Rotor turning when cranking?

Did any wires get pinched between bellhousing and engine, very common occurrence?

Use test light or volt meter to see if Coil has 12volts with key on, it should

 

[Drummadude]

Welcome to TRS

Is the distributor Rotor turning when cranking?

Did any wires get pinched between bellhousing and engine, very common occurrence?

Use test light or volt meter to see if Coil has 12volts with key on, it should

My coil is only getting 8 volts DC on my multimeter, where should I look to ensure 12 volts DC?

 

[RonD]

Check battery first

Then test other 12volt wires that are active with key on, like in cab fuse box

 

[Drummadude]

I will do that. So as a neophyte I have question; as a test can I run a wire from the battery and use a probe to apply 12 to the coil to see if there is spark at the coil wire to the distributor cap?

 

[RonD]

Yes, thats called "hot wiring a car", up until locking steering wheels it was all you needed to do to start any engine/vehicle, and then jump start motor, and drive away

So yes, its fine to do

 

[Drummadude]

So it won't fry the coil placing 12 there? I reasoned that since the key is providing 12, then it shouldn't be a problem. But my buddy helping thinks it will hurt the coil. Thanks for your help.

 

[RonD]

No, it won't hurt the coil

Years ago, pre-1980s, car makers would run coils on 8-9 volts, so they would last longer
Ford used a ballast resistor on the firewall up until late 60's or early 70's, then switched to a resistor wire under the dash, to reduce voltage to coil with key on
This lower voltage was by-passed when starter motor was active, that's what the "I" post was for on the 4 post starter solenoids, it ran to coil positive and only had voltage when solenoid was activated(starter motor turning)

But 1987 shouldn't have this

 

[Drummadude]

The accessories in the fuse box did read 12VDC when the key was switched on. But when running a wire from the battery and probing the positive on the coil it still didn't fire when starter fluid was shot in the carb. So I stopped at that point and need to research and pick the brains of knowledgeable people.