No spark at distributor

[chayse brooks]

I have just bought my second bronco 2 with a 2.9 liter v6 the guy has replaced the old 2.9 with a new one and he has tried to get spark but there is none so after buying it and getting it in my shop I have started to look after that problem and I have had to replace the starter scyloniod to get it to turn over and there is power at the coil but still nothing at the distributor. what should I do to get spark

 

[97RangerXLT]

Check the TFI module. Common issue

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[RonD]

Also check voltage at coil's "+" when starter motor is turning engine, this can be a separate power pathway depending on the year of the vehicle.

TFI testing seen here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml


A coil sparks when Ground is removed, that's what the old Points setup did, every time the points separated it cut the Ground "-" on the coil, when points connected again coil was "recharged' to spark again when Ground was cut.

Electronic ignitions do the same thing, they just do it without the need to adjust or replace the points all the time.
Sensor in distributor sees the shaft position as it rotates and relays that to spark control "module"(TFI in your case).
Module cuts the Ground to the coil to make it spark.

You can test a coil by powering it up and cutting the ground, nice blue/white spark is what you should see, yellow spark mean weak coil or low voltage at coil.
The voltage IN is multiplied by a set amount and becomes the voltage OUT, so lower voltage in = lower voltage out

 

[enjr44]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

 

[chayse brooks]

I have found that the plug going into the tfi has no power so I'm thinking bad coil ? Or could it be something else ?

 

[RonD]

TFI module and Coil "+" get power from the same wire when key is in RUN position, you said coil had power

In START position, RUN power is cut and power runs thru Clutch switch(manual) or Neutral switch(auto)

Look at diagram posted enjr44 above.

You can put a jumper wire from battery "+" to coil "+" and see if engine starts, "hot wiring 101", that would tell you if existing wire was bad, could be ignition switch or just a bad wire

 

[chayse brooks]

So with more investigation I found the red and light blue wire gets power from the starter relay but doesn't get power at the plug for the tfi. I followed it under the dash and according to my repair manual the wire connects to a pink wire which goes into the clutch safety switch. There is also a pink wire cut and ran for an alarm system that the last owner said he needed to remove for what ever reason and I'm beginning to think he didn't know what he was doing because there are a tone of wires that have butt connectors and splice connectors on them for no reason and a few cut wires that go no where. Looks like this is going to be a fun task of search and repair. I'm thinking if I find where the other end of this pink wire goes and I connect the cut peice to it I may have fixed my problem and yes I'll try hot wiring the coil like said to see if this is really my problem

 

[RonD]

Pink wire is power from ignition switch to the Clutch Safety switch for the TFI and starter motor relay.
There should be 2 Red/blue wires or a splice near by, so both get power from Pink wire when clutch pedal is down all the way

 

[chayse brooks]

Well seems so far I have solved my problem which was honestly a stupid easy fix the last owner who put in the engin had two plugs backwards which were right next to each other. As for now I have to get the battery charged and the distributor tightened down because he loosened if for some reason and give it a try at starting thanks for all the help