no pressure

[jeremy cato]

I have a 1996 ranger splash. I have brand new clutch, slave cylinder pressure plate, master cylinder, resavoir and hydrolic lines and I cant get the clutch to pump up. anybody got any suggestions?

 

[Brain75]

pro tip, include the transmission so we don't have to go hunt down which possibility it might be

from the tech articles, I gather that it could only be the Mazda M50D-R1 , is that correct?

Ford Ranger Manual Transmissions - The Ranger Station

Model Trans Code P/N Vehicle Speed Ratios Mitsubishi FM132 D 1988-1992 2.9L 2WD 5-Speed Unknown Mitsubishi FM145 D E67A-7003-FA 1985-1987 Ranger 4X4 5-Speed 1st: 3.769 2nd: 2.210 3rd: 1.516 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.812 Reverse: 3.400 Mitsubishi FM146 D 1988-1992 2.9L Ranger 4X4 … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

If that is the case, I have to ask, the slave cylinder is the most well known weak link... quote from that same page:
"
The hydraulic clutch, slave cylinder/throwout bearing is another item you should pay close attention to. After time, the slave cylinder fails to release the clutch completely. If you are having trouble shifting into 1st and reverse while stationary or if your truck creeps forward with the clutch pedal depressed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is probably at fault. Unfortunately there is no easy fix here as the transmission must be removed to replace the combination slave cylinder and throwout bearing.
"

In your parts list you don't mention a new slave cylinder, just the slave pressure plate.... so just for verification, you did not put a new slave in it? (being the weakest link I plan on replacing it every time I have to do a clutch or otherwise open up the bellhousing/clutch area).

If you didn't replace it, my first guess would be the slave cylinder itself.
What was the symptoms that made you put all the parts into you have so far?

 

[jeremy cato]

The slave cylinder is inside the transmission

 

[jeremy cato]

yes i changed the slave cylinder pressure plate, clutch, master cylinder hydrolic lines and resavoir. I replaced everything. I think it has the 55 tranny in it.

 

[fastpakr]

Is there any pressure at all when you press the clutch pedal?

 

[jeremy cato]

Yes, the slave cylinder is new. actually everything that has to do with the clutch is brand new all the way back to the resavoir. It just wont bleed out the air.

 

[jeremy cato]

it starts to get a peddle but then its back to square one.

 

[jeremy cato]

I have never had this issue before. this is the 2nd slave cylinder I have installed. Both brand new

 

[fastpakr]

Honestly it sounds like you have air trapped in the master cylinder.

 

[Brain75]

or the slave... found a tip on how to bleed/install procedure to make final bleed less painful

M5OD Clutch install & bleeding tips

Got a couple tips for those of you that are or will be replacing a clutch or slave cylinder in a RBV (or any other vehicle with an internal slave, for that matter.) What we're doing here is filling and pre-bleeding your slave. This allows you to run less fluid through it during the actual...

www.therangerstation.com

any chance you did something like this so the slave isn't such a PITA to bleed?

 

[jeremy cato]

Yea, I am gonna pull the piston out of it tomorrow and bleed that. I hope. So you have any advice for that? I don't know how to do that without losing any insides from the master cylinder.

 

[Brain75]

I watched a couple youtube videos before you asked your question, thinking I might find one for bleeding the slave POST install... none that I thought were so stellar as to repeat. might give the old gargler a whirl and see if you find a better one than I did.

 

[fastpakr]

The new slave should have remained sealed until the line was connected. I doubt that's your issue.

 

[scotts90ranger]

It's goin to be air in the master cylinder, they're a complete pain in the tookus to bleed unless you bench bleed them then as soon as you get the line plugged in gravity bleed the slave before that air bubble goes back up to the master...

The dumbest free thing to try that sometimes works is to push the pedal to the floor and slide your foot off the pedal and let it slam back, repeat like 10 times... Occasionally it'll get the air bubbles out of the master cylinder, not always but I've never liked the idea of pulling the snap ring on the master, not to mention there is like negative room back there on the '95+ dash...

 

[SenorNoob]

Rather than letting the pedal come back up on it's own, I end up getting on my knees beside the truck and working the pedal down and up really fast with my hand. May have to keep the bleeder slightly cracked. (So slight that it only leaks fluid when the pedal is pressed.) As well as have an assistant to keep the reservoir full. Or a pressure bleeder.