I don't have those colors or that many wires. I even untaped the harness and that's all there are. Code reader comes on but stays at 000. There is no power in the plug as you stated. Here are the pictures. Thank you
Wire colors change by year and model, so not relevant, diagram was just to ID what each slot was for, and to show no 12v
OBD1 reader plugs into the DLC connector and should also have a tab to plug in the single wire on that harness(self test wire)
OBD1 reader shorts that single wire to #2 in the diagram to initiate test mode and computer should start to send out pulses(Codes)
Yes, in 1st picture it looks like wires are not in the correct slots or missing, but hard to see the back of the whole connector
I'm including a second picture , also off a 90 ranger 4 cylinder. There are no wires missing as you can see from me opening up the harness. The Other is different from mine. To get some parts for this particular truck they need the serial number or build date.This one has a build date of 10/89. I really appreciate you trying to help me. I'm giving it to my grandson as soon as he gets his regular liscense. Thanks
looking at the code reader left to right . left up and down pin has the separate wire hooked to the reader , next pin crosswise has a wire , last pin crosswise has nothing , bottom line pin has a wire hooked to it . Doesn't appear to been changed. But it's over 30 years old. What should I do? I'm back about a foot in the harness and no wires missing. Thanks again
Went out and looked at one of the bronco 11s that's here. It's wired just like the 90. Gonna try tomorrow. Only thing is only one of the 2 Bronco 11s will show codes and I don't remember which one it was If it won't I'll go to the parts store and get another reader. I'll get back with you. Thanks again
Sorry to bother you again. Went out to the 88. Wired in the exact way the 90 is. plugged it up turned it on then turned the key on pressed test and it tested. Any ideas? All fuses good. Here's what happened. Renewed the entire cooling system intake included , tested and cleaned all injectors. Replaced one because the spray pattern was different then the other 5. that injector was an E6 all others were E7. Installed new distributor , snugged down used remote start to get it close to timing , the distributor all but jumped clockwise and it is causing black soot on all plugs. Reinstalled original distributor and still have the same problem. open up ECM capacitors ok. I'm stumped. One thing about the distributor , the shim or thrust washer between the gear and housing with 4 prongs are destroyed , it spins with the gear now. Hasn't been a good week .
You could put the 1988 computer in 1990 vehicle or the 1990 computer in the 1988 vehicle, doesn't matter if they are different engines you are not going to start the engine, just turning on the key, you are just testing if wiring to OBD1 connector is OK and if computer is OK, i.e. it can "speak OBD1"
For black soot issue, check the vacuum port on the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) for gasoline
Nothing to do with the "no OBD1 connection", just Rich Mix issue
I put the original automatic ecm in . it started its test but when it did the fuel pump test it stopped and the pump would not shutoff. reinstalled the other ecm pump worked like it should. This is not going good. It won't start. Coil , plugs firing 38 pounds of fuel pressure Put diode on injector it's firing. No fuel ln FPR line. the fpr was on the rail with all 6 injectors when i tested and cleaned at 38 pounds of pressure on my bench. I can operate the injectors will running sea foam and gas thru my cleaner. These tester has four settings. basically 1 squirt to a constant spray. I am totally lost. Gonna order another ECM . But I can't understand why it wont start back up with it. Also tried to get the codes and it won't do it . This is worst then 7 years ago when I did my oldest grandsons , pulled the worrying harness twice , every splice was rusted and wires green. Whatever they sealed the splices with got hard cracked and left them bare. Thanks
After cranking engine over pull out a spark plug, any one that's easy to get out
Tip should be WET with "fuel"
Light it with a match/lighter, should burn instantly and easily.........................if it doesn't then "it ain't FUEL"
Logic say engine should start if it has spark, fuel and compression
But we all make assumptions, like "of course its fuel", lol, what if it ain't, simple test
Yep with the fuel pump running constantly it flooded the plugs. Put some used ones in and a ecm I had that's not very good. Marked junk. Started ,it will idle at correct rpm but still stinks and missed. Ordered another ecm. it still won't bring up codes?? It is the correct ECM . The 88 bronco 11 is a one year ECM . 1989-1992 are the same. Both 88 computers start the test then when it checks the pump it stops and the pump stays running. I think my ignition switch is going bad . That can cause problems . I'll get one tomorrow. Let you know when I tune it up and get the New ECM and switch in. The black soot is gone with this ECM. Thanks