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No Instrument Illumination after Odometer gear replacement.


T.Wolf

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1996 Ranger Super Cab, 4cyl, 5m, - I went through the whole process of removing the cluster, repairing the gear, and putting everything back. Great success! Only to find out when it got dark that I have no cluster illumination. The warning lights all work fine. Turn signal & high beam indicators also work. I checked every single T5 and T10 before putting the cluster all back together - they worked. I can only assume there is a broken wire, the dimmer has failed somehow (but the radio readout dims appropriately with rotation), or one of the plugs into the cluster isn't making good contact?

I opened it all up again so I can access the headlight switch and the back of the cluster. I unplugged and replugged every connector - no change. I'm good with electrical normally, but I don't know the wiring here. I check #7 fuse, but it looks fine. As a side note, it appears the backlight for the headlight switch isn't illuminating either (if that makes a difference). Where should I start? Anyone with experience or knowledge here would be greatly appreciated.
If I've left out any other important details, please let me know.
 


T.Wolf

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A little more info to add: I read in another thread about the Light Blue/Red being the Illumination wire. At the back of the dimmer there is a very short (5" or so) Light Blue/Red that runs back to the headlight switch. I checked voltage there and got 4.4 to 3.2 volts to ground depending on the position of the dimmer. That seems low to me, but I'm not sure what the voltage should be other than the fact that it is running multiple 12 volt lamps. I would think with the dimmer turned all the way up (but not in the overhead light position), it would be much closer to 12 volts. I'm still digging for info and scratching my head.

I put my meter probes in place of fuse #7 and I get 11.7 volts with the parking or headlights on. From looking at the illumination diagram I found here (https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Instrumentpanellights_1990on.JPG), It seems like having power at that fuse means the dimmer should be good? But the voltage didn't change at the fuse with rotation of the dimmer? Something doesn't add up between the diagram and the dimmer wiring. Maybe I'm misinterpreting it.

One other issue/point of interest: I've looked through all three connectors (C1, C2, & C3) that attach to the cluster and I can't figure out where the LB/R wire comes into any of them? Am I missing something obvious?
 
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Josh B

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do you have any fresh bulbs you can swap in to check if they weren't all blown somehow? I have no clue what voltage those bulbs require but could be it's less than a full 12v? I did find an old box of Wagners here that states 194 10pcs 14V 2 CP , if that's of any use to you :)
 

T.Wolf

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Where there's a Wolf, there's a way...
I appreciate the reply Josh. Bulbs are all fine. I used some farmhand ingenuity to create a poorman's tester. Putting the probes on the circuit trace on the back of the cluster lights the bulb to prove it works.
31420
 

Josh B

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I'm sorry Wolfe, someone will be around tomorrow who can be much more help than I :)
 

T.Wolf

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Where there's a Wolf, there's a way...
More info: I found a new diagram specific to the 1996. The illumination wire is Red/Black. With the dimmer and cluster disconnected, I tested the Red/Black from the dimmer connector to C1 and C2, both show continuity. Armed with the new info, I reinstalled the cluster, jumped the power from the parking lights to the R/B at the dimmer connector (still disconnected), and turned on the headlights... TAAAADAAAAH! Instrument Illumination works fine.

All this leads me to the conclusion that must be related to the dimmer. I also discovered the radio dimming is a separate wire coming out of the dimmer connector -- that Light Blue/Red one.

Now having glanced at the prices online, $200+ for a stupid dimmer is crazy. That's almost a quarter of what I paid for the truck! I think I will either bypass that circuit (only full bright when the lights are on), check the junk yards for a used one, or see if I could make a cheaper alternative work. As usual, any additional thoughts are appreciated.
 

T.Wolf

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I'm attaching the two-part diagram I used. Since the system limits file, Admin please let me know if I should email them somewhere for better quality upload.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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I'm not sure what the TRS email is, I'll check and pm you.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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T.Wolf

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Central Texas
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'96
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2.3 (4 Cylinder)
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2WD
My credo
Where there's a Wolf, there's a way...
The link you sent won't let me send the files there either, but the quality of the uploads seems fine.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Check your pm.
 

RonD

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I can see the diagrams just fine

Dimming module has two parts, the dome light switch, and the dimmer for the cab dash lighting, as show in diagrams they don't share power in or out

These don't fail to often so wrecking yard pick is not a bad gamble
 

Josh B

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Yeah, I'm about re-sold on the wrecking yard parts myself since becoming acquainted with the one here over on TX side. It's a type of pick n pull place that just sends you out there to look around, as opposed to them just handing you a part that you have no clue what it came from. There they give a list of vehicles which might match yours and you can browse around looking for a match, in the process noting the shape of the rest of the vehicle, and having some idea what it might have been through, and the price is better there too far as i could tell, tho it's been years since I've visited a wrecking yard at all

I went looking for a transmission a few weeks ago and before I was done had a radio, an arm rest, a starter/selenoid, a couple alternators, all kinds of misc bolts and such(which they don't even charge for here) also a gauge cluster, can't think what all else, AND got most of it on a 50% introductory coupon from their website and a later return for the Labor Day 4 day 50% off sale Haha
 

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Yes, nothing wrong with buying previously test and "KNOWN GOOD" parts

Buying "new" parts now-a-days is a roll of the dice, yes they have a warranty, but I would rather it just work when I install it :)

I even only buy "previously test transportation systems" now, used vehicles

Have bought 2 new vehicles in the past and they both had to go in for servicing and recalls over the first few years, darn inconvenient, yes free repairs, but I would rather it just WORK

A good used car just works, and no voiding a warranty if you fix it yourself
 
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