No fuel to Fuel Rail.

[gaz]

Though it has been running since 21OCT20, there was an exhaust leak on the slip joint of the 2 piece header collector; I used the incorrect size band clamp on it.

I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) but didn't have time to operationally check it.

Last 2 items prior to driving were to:

1) bleed the clutch slave cylinder.
2) replace the leaking rear brake wheel cylinders/complete system bleed.

My buddy was over yesterday to help me bleed the clutch, after which I was excited to see if the new ECT sensor helped the start up issue. Unfortunately, upon twisting the ignition to start there was nothing, no click/no pop/no crank/no start.

I came up with a short list of things that were touched while down:

a) the clutch position sensor was disconnected and fiddled with.

b) the starter cable was grabbed and may have jarred it's position.

c) a test battery was replaced with the original battery, since the test batt was dropping below 12v.

It is looking like the starter cable; I may just replace it as it has served it's time.

 

[gaz]

PRIOR TO THE CLUTCH BLEED:
I unplugged an odd looking little black connector which comes off the battery negative lead to the bundle. I don't remember ever unplugging it before and now I think I should have left it ALONE!

STARTER AND SOLENOID:
Turns out that during the clutch slave cylinder bleed, a strange coincidence occurred. I am beyond surprised to learn that while I was bleeding my clutch slave cylinder, my starter died??? I is hard to take but it is at least 16 years old, so after testing it completely myself, I let The Autozone test it too. They dubbed it a complete failure. I bought a new replacement starter and a "just in case" starter solenoid switch. Upon arriving home the new starter twists hard with 12v direct from the battery but neither it or the old starter solenoid do anything with the ignition switch to start.

NEW BATTERY CABLES:
The starter and battery cables were still functioning but are at least 16 years old so I replaced them both. I ran out of time today but still need to try to crank with the new start solenoid. If this does nothing I am swinging towards the ignition module.

WHAT IS THIS CONNECTOR:
I will post a pic of the little black harness plug I undid. I have been scouring the manual trying to learn what it does and how it could possibly have any affect on what is happening.

 

[gaz]

OK, it looks as though I may have this resolved. My Clutch Interlock 3 function Switch is out of adjustment, damaged and not working correctly:

-It requires that the clutch pedal be depressed to the floor in order to start the engine
-it cuts off the speed control system when the clutch pedal is depressed
-it provides a fuel control signal to the EEC system

This may have also been why my fuel pumps powered up intermittently during testing but not when cranking.

The plastic rod that runs through the switch is broken. Is there any way for the engine to run correctly with this switch "bypassed"?

 

[RonD]

Never heard of any fuel control on the clutch switch

Computer has a REV limiter which would cut injector open time above 3,000RPM with clutch pedal depressed, is that what you mean?

Pump would still be running if engine was

The 3 switches inside the clutch pedal switch are all normally OPEN
So unplugging the switch would make computer think clutch pedal is up
But you wouldn't be able to activated starter motor

The 2 wires at one end of clutch switch connector will be red/blue and/or white/pink, you can jumper those 2 wires together and you will have starter activation back, but even in gear so watch out

 

[gaz]

Ron,

I still have the stand alone fuel pump power circuit in use but sense bleeding the clutch slave, I have no crank.

Those "3 functions" are strait out of the Chilton's manual; I was shocked to read them. If it is accurate and I replace my "3way" sensor, more like 3 function sensor, it may correct my original no fuel to the rail also?

I am going to try and repair the broken switch rod first, if I can't, then I will aquire a working switch.

I do need it run so that I move it around while clearing up these fussy issues. So I may also try the jumper just to know how it works out, hopefully it only affects the START position and not run.

 

[RonD]

Yes, the clutch switch has no connection to the fuel pump power

Fuel pump relay is controlled by the computer, 2 seconds on with key on(computer boot up), then no fuel pump power(relay off) until RPMs are above 400(engine starts, cranking speed is 200rpms)

However you can turn key off and then on again to get another 2 seconds of run time for fuel pump, and repeat that as much as you want/need, won't hurt anything

The clutch switch is a "safety switch", as said there are 3 separate switches inside it
Main function is to prevent "starting in gear" so key can't activate starter motor unless the switch is closed, clutch pedal down all the way, so vehicle can't jump forward or backward when starting

Secondary functions
Cruise control shut off, if so equipped
Computer In gear or Neutral sensor, Neutral in this case means engine and trans are disconnected, its not a "gear" designation

The computer sensor part can be used for a few things depending on year
One is a REV limiter, since engine and trans are disconnected no need for RPMs above 3,000
Can also be used to hold RPMs high when shifting gears, this is an emissions requirement, computer uses IAC Valve to hold RPMs high when shifting gears, will also hold RPMs above 1,000 until speed is under 5mph

 

[gaz]

RonD,

I spent some time trying to remove the switch, to a frustrated fail. I then jumped it and it IMMEDIATELY CRANKED like a Champ!!!!!!!!

If the only negative is the possibility of starter engagement by bumping the key to start again while running, I am going to have to use it with the wires jumped until I have time to sort it out more correctly.

Ron, thank you VERY much!

 

[gaz]

For some unknown reason, it only cranked once. I can hear the start solenoid pop but then nothing.

I am going to remove the starter and see if I can figure out what went South ..(

 

[gaz]

I will be evaluating all the engine bay grounds next as it will not crank.

 

[gaz]

Bad news, the grounds are good.

Starter circuit:

-Battery power to starter solenoid
-Ignition power from the ignition switch through clutch interlock relay to starter relay when ignition switch is in start
-with ignition power signal the starter solenoid passes battery power to the starter until ignition switch returns to run, off, lock or accessory.

I will test my ignition switch and the wire runs next.

 

[gaz]

UPDATE and what learned:

a) my clutch position sensor was keeping the engine from cranking. ***My solution was to use a 10a Micro-fuse; the male connectors of the fuse are thin enough to make and maintain positive contact and are spread apart the perfect width to be inserted into the clutch position sensor female connector.***
b) the little black ground wire connector is more that what it appears to be



After testing the wire for resistance/continuity it measure open. I separated the 2 halves and they both measure as good wires with near 0.0 Ohm resistance value but when connected it read open (infinite resistance).

It turns out that this little connector is a resettable circuit breaker. When separated it automatically switches to open and must be reset to function. I will show the parts and how they work if there is anyone else who hasn't experienced this issue or wants to see how this circuit breaker functions.

Needless to say, if YOU open this connector and put it back together without resetting it, YOUR ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK!!!

 

[gaz]

RonD,

After replacing my Engine Coolant Sensor with a functional unit, my 2.9L started for the 1st time without starter fluid since the engine swap

Thank you, as I never, ever NEVER would have thought to check that sensor for the conditions

Onto the Brakes

 

[gaz]

Update to UPDATE:

After starting on its own fuel, for the first time since the engine swap, I keyed it off. Then went to start it later to flush the cooling system and it would not crank?

 

[gaz]

Since the fuel issue is resolved I will close this thread and initiate a new one regarding not cranking.