No crank no start dash lights go out after miswiring the ignition coil

[tenndav]

I accidently mixed the coils wires 1-3 and when it started it sounded bad and I turned it off quickly and when stopped a heard a clunk in the engine. I fixed the coil wires and tried to start it and when I turn-on the key all lights shut down and nothing happens? I think something might have seized in the engine due to coil wires being in the wrong place. 127K miles. I never thought that I could blow an engine by crossing the coil wires??? I'm a total disabled vet and I'm trying to take a smarter step to troubleshooting instead of pulling all plugs and try to turn the crankshaft. I hope it's just something electrical instead of mechanical damage. Any suggested starting points and things to check?

Is it possible for the engine to run backwards for a second or two and break the starter? I read about this happening because I heard a clunk when I shut it down. I guess I should inspect the starter and I hope pieces aren't broken off and fell down in the torque converter???

Thanks,
tenndav

 

[RonD]

You can't hurt/damage an engine with mis-wired coil, or any other wiring, you are correct that not how an engine works

engine won't "run" backwards but you can turn the engine backwards as much as you want doesn't hurt anything

All dash lights SHOULD go off when you turn the key to START, always have, you just may not have noticed
The ignition switch turns off most systems to give starter motor all the battery AMPs available for start up

1999 3.0l should have a 4 wire coil pack
One 12v wire(red) and 3 ground wires that run to the computer

In a 1999 Check fuse 19 in the CAB fuse box, it powers the Coil pack, 25amp
Also check Fuse 24(7.5amp) in CAB fuse box, this activates starter motor relay

 

[tenndav]

Thanks Ron. I read that a ford engine ran backwards just for a moment and it broke his starter. I pulled the starter out last night what PITA that was. 1997 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC with 4-wheel drive no room to get your hands up there; the hardest part was disconnecting the wiring and I discovered in the end that my signal wire was a pull-in and I couldn't see it until I was able to move it around with 12v wire disconnected. I'm going to test run it and see what happens and I assume nothing. The 99 Mada B3000 is another vehicle that I have and it has 6 wires on the coil with same wire location as the explorer 123 465' I marked my wires with the physical location and the number wasn't readable and theggn I switch to wire location by sparkplug and had the number location of the coil mixed up. I've been sick for over 70 days this year so I'm not the sharpest knife in the draw. Thanks Gary

 

[tenndav]

You can't hurt/damage an engine with mis-wired coil, or any other wiring, you are correct that not how an engine works

engine won't "run" backwards but you can turn the engine backwards as much as you want doesn't hurt anything

All dash lights SHOULD go off when you turn the key to START, always have, you just may not have noticed
The ignition switch turns off most systems to give starter motor all the battery AMPs available for start up

1999 3.0l should have a 4 wire coil pack
One 12v wire(red) and 3 ground wires that run to the computer

In a 1999 Check fuse 19 in the CAB fuse box, it powers the Coil pack, 25amp
Also check Fuse 24(7.5amp) in CAB fuse box, this activates starter motor relay

Hey Ron,

I test ran the starter today and it worked fine; However the gear just spins and doesn't turn the flywheel. When it's disconnected you can spin the gear the way it spins to turn the flywheel. So it just spins and doesn't drive since it must be broken internally the other direction you can turn it at all. I glad it's not a blown engine or is it? I haven't turned the crankshaft pulley since it's really hard to get to or maybe I should move some things as the fan shroud out of way to get a socket on it. I'm pretty sure that I need to pull the plugs or I won't be able to turn the pulley and also risk breaking it off. I should have my a__ kicked for wiring it wrong but my marks couldn't been seen and I was going by physical location and when I didn't switch to actual numbering I made the mistake of going 123 instead 321. I think that clunk I heard was the engine driving the starter drive gear backwards and breaking it. What's your ideal of this?

 

[RonD]

1990 and up will have a starter motor, the larger cylinder and a smaller Starter solenoid/relay cylinder on top of it
The smaller cylinder has a solenoid inside, when activated the solenoid PUSHES the starter motor gear OUT to engage the flywheel gear
You need to give the smaller "S" post on this starter solenoid/relay 12v and you will see the gear move OUT and then back when you take the 12v away

Starter motor just spins when you give it 12v, position of the gear depends on giving the solenoid 12v as well


Some car makers use Bendix Drive starter motors, these don't need the solenoid, when the starter motor starts to spin the Bendix drive pushes the starter gear out to engage flywheel
These were used for years and years, problem is the starter gear was spinning when it made contact with flywheel gear which was NOT spinning, so made for alot of wear and tear on BOTH gears
Usually the starter gear was made of a softer metal, on purpose, because starter was easier to change than flywheel gear
Starters "wore out" a lot faster, well the gear did, and the gear could be replaced separately

Using the solenoid, the gear moves out to engage flywheel 1/2 a second before starter motor begins to spin so less wear and tear on both gears

Picture of the Ford setup here: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/images/articles-300-399/310/314/image_T_1.jpg

Alternate image: https://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/starter/solenoidspadeterminal/PICT6197.jpg

The larger B+ post is hook to Battery Positive by a larger cable
The smaller "S" post just needs a regular size wire

When the "S" post gets 12volts the solenoid rod PULLS in which pushes OUT the starter gear
When the solenoid is PULLED IN all the way contacts on its back side connect B+ with Starter Motor itself
So the gear has to be all the way OUT before starter motor gets 12v and starts to spin

Seen here: https://www.allfourx4.com.au/WebRoot/Store/Shops/allfourx4/MediaGallery/Blog_Images/Starter_Motor_Solenoid/what-is-a-starter-motor.jpg

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

1990 and up will have a starter motor, the larger cylinder and a smaller Starter solenoid/relay cylinder on top of it
The smaller cylinder has a solenoid inside, when activated the solenoid PUSHES the starter motor gear OUT to engage the flywheel gear
You need to give the smaller "S" post on this starter solenoid/relay 12v and you will see the gear move OUT and then back when you take the 12v away

Starter motor just spins when you give it 12v, position of the gear depends on giving the solenoid 12v as well


Some car makers use Bendix Drive starter motors, these don't need the solenoid, when the starter motor starts to spin the Bendix drive pushes the starter gear out to engage flywheel
These were used for years and years, problem is the starter gear was spinning when it made contact with flywheel gear which was NOT spinning, so made for alot of wear and tear on BOTH gears
Usually the starter gear was made of a softer metal, on purpose, because starter was easier to change than flywheel gear
Starters "wore out" a lot faster, well the gear did, and the gear could be replaced separately

Using the solenoid, the gear moves out to engage flywheel 1/2 a second before starter motor begins to spin so less wear and tear on both gears

Picture of the Ford setup here: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/images/articles-300-399/310/314/image_T_1.jpg

The larger B+ post is hook to Battery Positive by a larger cable
The smaller "S" post just needs a regular size wire

When the "S" post gets 12volts the solenoid rod PULLS in which pushes OUT the starter gear
When the solenoid is PULLED IN all the way contacts on its back side connect B+ with Starter Motor itself
So the gear has to be all the way OUT before starter motor gets 12v and starts to spin

Seen here: https://www.allfourx4.com.au/WebRoot/Store/Shops/allfourx4/MediaGallery/Blog_Images/Starter_Motor_Solenoid/what-is-a-starter-motor.jpg

Your first link is no good.

 

[RonD]

Not sure why you got that, maybe you are BANNED from the site

 

[Vindictus]

I get the same thing when I try that link

 

[RonD]

OK fine, posted an alternate image link

 

[tenndav]

OK fine, posted an alternate image link

Hi Ron,

Well, I got my beloved 97 Explorer fixed last night. I ordered a new starter even though the old one tested fine; I believed that the large chunk I heard the last time I was able to start it was the starter being damaged by miss wiring the coil. I don't know what's wrong with it but was broken at this time. The new started was another PITA removing it except less stuff falling in my face because I had already knocked most down while removing it. I did check to see if the engine would turn by hand and it did and felt smooth which was ensuring.. The thing ran almost as good as when it was new. I brought it from a Korean Ford Dealer in Korea in Feb.1998 for half of it's previous price because their money lost half it's value. I carried a backpack full of won(dollar) since the largest denomination was 10,000 won and that was 27 million won= $15,500 for a export Ford Explorer XLT loaded 4X4 and painted similar to a Mercury Mountaineer. I'm sure not a lot of them like mine made it back to the states in order to ship one back free you had to ship a car over. My 1989 Grand Am had to be sold at a loss because you could only have one car over there. I think I sold it for $1800 with low miles just to get rid of it. Thanks for your help; now I have to put an taurus motor in my 1999 B3000 if my health allows it. They charge the cheapest here for the job to remove and replace motor to motor $1500 for a shit job!

Gary

 

[RonD]

Glad you got it working