New to the station. I own a 98 Ranger that I bought off a guy from Texas blown motor but it had a motor with it.

[Jeffn82]

I have I have it almost altogether but I need to figure out where one vacuum line goes. There's two of them coming out from under the blower motor and I don't know where one of them goes. This truck was a basket case Parts in bags and extra parts also and missing parts to. Been working on it for probably two months off and on. But where I'm at is that vacuum line. Also the kid I bought it from Lost original key drilled out the ignition and put a key without a chip in there. Can I get around the Pats on there or is there a pats on this. Thanks for any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Dirtman]

Welcome!

If you give me a few I can probably find the vacuum diagram but in the mean time the tech section is a great resource. Tons of diagrams and schematics in here.

Ford Ranger Tech (1983-2011) - The Ranger Station

DISCLAIMER: Activities and vehicle modifications appearing or described at The Ranger Station and it’s pages may be potentially dangerous. We do not endorse any such activity for others or recommend it to any particular person – we simply describe … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Jeffn82]

I actually found that thank you very much for your time I appreciate it. The white the vacuum line I was looking for that I couldn't find where to plug it in actually goes to the the 4-way heater hose connection. So I'm all good there. Now I just got to figure out the PAT system. The kid that had it before me couldn't get it to start then broke that crankshaft position sensor housing so he pulled a motor again to change that. He had to go back to Texas and gave up on it so I bought it. He ended up drilling the ignition out because you lost the key. So I don't know if that's the problem or not just the way he couldn't get it started. I'll know more tomorrow. Again thanks for your time man.

 

[RonD]

1998 Ranger had 3 engines options
2.5l 4cyl
3.0l Vulcan V6
4.0l OHV V6

Which do you have?

1998 didn't have PATS, that started in 1999 and only on V6 models
But PATS was available as a pay extra option in 1998 on V6 models only, but very few were order with it

If you have PATS there will be a THEFT light on the dash that will come on with key on, and then flash rapidly if matching key is not present
Does that happen?

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site.

 

[Jeffn82]

All right, thank you. I different information from different sites. So I wasn't sure I was hoping that was the case. All I know is the kid put the motor in and couldn't get it to start so we pulled it back out I think because he broke the crankshaft position sensor housing. So hopefully if not this evening tomorrow morning I'll be able to try and fire it up. I want to get all the old gas out of the tank first because it's been sitting about 4 years. So we'll see what happens then. Again, thanks for your time. And also it does have the 2.5 l. Had my grandkids overnight so I didn't get any work done on it. Now I need rest. Love them but then they're a handful.

 

[RonD]

So no PATS for sure on a 1998 4cyl Ranger

Rangers used 2.5l from 1998 to mid-2001
2.5l is the SOHC Lima engine, it uses a timing belt that must be correctly timed to get enough compression to start engine
It is a non-interference engine so valves can't hit pistons if belt breaks or is mis-timed
The 2.5l is a stroked version of the 2.3l Lima engine first used in 1974 Pinto, so the engine design has been around alot of years(27) and was known as a reliable engine, it was last used in 2001 Ranger, or 2001 Mazda B2500

1989-1994 2.3l(OBD1) used a different crank sensor than the 1995-2001 2.3l/2.5l(OBD2) so these blocks/engines are not interchangeable because of this

It uses dual spark plugs for extra power, engine can run fine on just 4 spark plugs(did so from 1974 to 1988) but runs better on 8
So you can unplug either coil pack and start engine to see if all 4 spark plugs on that side/coil are working
Then test other 4 spark plugs/coil the same way
This is the only way to test if all 8 spark plugs are working because if a spark plug should fail you wouldn't know since other spark plug in that cylinder would keep it running OK

Manual transmission is an M5OD-R1(M5R1) model
There will be a Clutch switch on the clutch pedal pushrod in the cab, this switch is closed by pushing clutch pedal down to the floor, this is required to activate starter motor using the key turned to START
Its a safety feature so vehicle can not be started "in gear"

There is also a fuse in cab fuse box, fuse 24, it passes the 12v from key switch to safety switch and then to starter relay in engine fuse box to activate starter motor

 

[Jeffn82]

Ron, again thanks for your information. this is all helpful period have never really pulled a motor and reinstalled it even though I didn't pull this oneit is a lot more than I've done on a vehicle. I worked on dirt bikes as a kid but that was a long time ago and a little bit with snowmobiles now .I do a lot of my own fixing on my vehicles but this was more than I have done period especially since it was a basket case. I really appreciate this forum and YouTube because it sure help me a lot

 

[Jeffn82]

Ron, again thanks for your information. this is all helpful period have never really pulled a motor and reinstalled it even though I didn't pull this oneit is a lot more than I've done on a vehicle. I worked on dirt bikes as a kid but that was a long time ago and a little bit with snowmobiles now .I do a lot of my own fixing on my vehicles but this was more than I have done period especially since it was a basket case. I really appreciate this forum and YouTube because it sure help me a lot

Also this is a 2.5 L with a 5-speed

 

[RonD]

You will be fine
gasoline engines all work the same way

The big 3
Compression, above 120psi
Spark, at the right time
Fuel, in correct mix with air(14.7:1)

The 50/50 test is still the best way to find out if a "no start" is a spark or fuel issue, used since the first gasoline engines in the 1890's
If starter is working then spray fuel into the intake and see if engine fires
If it fires and dies then fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't fire then spark(or compression) is the issue
50/50 instant results

The basics of a gasoline engine have never changed, the stuff added for spark and fuel are to make it more reliable and efficient, and they do
A single cylinder gas engine is exactly the same as a V12, in how it works

 

[rubydist]

Another way to accomplish the test Ron described is to crank over the engine for a while (3x 20 seconds each) and if it doesn't start pull out some of the spark plugs. They should be noticeably wet from the gas being injected and not burned. It they are wet, there is lack of spark. If they are dry, there is lack of fuel.

 

[Jeffn82]

Again Ron, and you to Rudy, thank you for the information. It run it runs rough at idle but it runs. According to the gas gauge the tank is full and as I said it's been sitting almost four years. So I'm probably have to burn that garbage out of there was going to try and pump it out but if it's full that's a lot. It hunts and surges at idle. But higher RPM it runs fine. Sprayed the intake down good with seafoam intake cleaner. Going to let it sit for a while.. also I suppose the computer has to relearn all the parameters. So we'll see how it goes. Again I really appreciate the information. Thanks a bunch

 

[Jeffn82]

Also both gauges on that side of the dash don't work the temp or the fuel gauge just shows full. And the temp gauge doesn't move . So I don't know if that's a ground issue or what I got going on there. Amp gauge and oil pressure gauge seem to work.

 

[RonD]

On a 2.5l engine look at the front top of engine, you will see the TWO temp units
ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, 5volts only used by computer
ECT sender, 12volts only used by dash board temp gauge

So these two are NOT interchangeable

Picture here: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ranger-forums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/cbb5b012_f644_4eb6_b534_701e83534f6a_54c7b58714af8fcc11328766ff71b01143a73505.jpeg

Red/white wire is for the gauge, sender
Grey/red is for computer, sensor

Unplug the red/white wire connector and then GROUND red/white wire with a jumper wire to battery negative
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go to HOT, all the way up, this means wire and gauge are OK
THEN use the same wire and connect red/white and black wire on same connector
Turn on key, should see same HOT from temp gauge, that means black ground wire on sender is OK

If all wires test OK then replace SENDER
You have to be careful when ordering these because ECT sensor is more popular and will not work for this, lol
So it must be TEMP SENDER not sensor


Fuel gauge stuck on full can be a few things
Corroded or disconnected wire at the tank connection
Bad anti-slosh module on cluster
Bad gauge in cluster

If you pull out the cluster you can check the tank wire
Its the only yellow/white wire on cluster connector
Test it with OHM meter
1989 and up Fords use 16ohms EMPTY, 160 ohms FULL
If wire is corroded or disconnected it will be higher than 160 ohms so will always show FULL

If wire and sender in tank are OK then you will see between 16 to 160 ohms and if you rock the truck, the gas in the tank will slosh around making float/sender change so ohms will change as well
If that happens then wire and sender are OK

On the back of the cluster is a separate module that pulls out, that's the anti-slosh module and a known issue on Fords
Point of the module is to prevent gas gauge needle from going up and down every time you go around a corner, as the gas "sloshes" around in the tank, hence the name

You can google: Ford anti slosh modules

Loads of info on fixing, replacing or by-passing these

 

[Jeffn82]

Hey Ron again thanks for all the information. I switched temp sensors because I had another one from the other motor and that seems to be working I took the truck off of the ramps and the gas gauge didn't move so I'm sure it's just full. Until I put gas in it I'm going to run it with a can of gas in the back just in case. I still runs rough at idle I'm getting a cam position sensor code and po 402 which I has excessive exhaust gas recirculation temp. I think that might even be the problem with the cam position sensor because it's surging so much. So now I got to work on that. I got to work 12-hour shifts the next three days at least so I won't be doing too much to it maybe a little bit after work but that's about it. Right now I'm going to do some research on these fixes for the 402 code. Again thanks a lot