New to me 2011 XLT 4x4 with 2" torsion keys issue

[JJMaine]

Hey guys, I just bought a used 2011 Ranger 4x4 and on the test ride it went great and also on the way home from buying it. Apparently he had added 2" torsion keys to level the truck but the front was at least 1.5" higher than the rear.

After driving on bumpy roads on my way to work this morning I realized I had a problem. When I hit a bump it ripped the wheel right out of my hands and the truck rode very harsh as well. After asking a friend at work he noticed that the previous owner had added torsion keys but he ALSO cranked the adjustment bolts up so the front shocks were maxed out. Instead of making the truck level it was squatting. Looked terrible and drove even worse lol.

Anyway I got in for an alignment and had them back off the torsion bar adjustment bolts so the truck is dead level now and rides great after the alignment. My question is, is there any point going back to stock keys and use the adjustment bolts to level the truck or would I just be at the same point I am now? I hope this makes sense. I think the previous owner took the "long" way around, swapping keys when he could have just turned the bolts in but now the keys are in there and the truck is level and rides ok. Just leave them?

How the truck looked before I had it adjusted. I don't have a level spot on my yard to park the truck on.

 

[JJMaine]

Fyi, I was just looking for a nice clean Ranger and never wanted any kind of "lift" though it doesn't bother me as long as the truck rides nice and isn't chewing up parts.

How it looks now:

 

[2011Supercab]

Just leave them?

That's what I would do.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks, it kind of makes sense to me now. I know if it were me I would have never bought them but oh well.

 

[superj]

i would leave them too. its nice your truck is leveled and a little taller thoug. it looks good

 

[JJMaine]

Now to find a way to re-attach the front skid plate. When I got to work yesterday I noticed (thankfully) that it was just hanging on with 1 bolt. That could have been bad if it fell off on the road!

I’m guessing all the jolting from the horrendous front suspension rattled the bolts out and now I probably need to re-tap the frame for larger bolts?

I’ve got a million questions but I’m trying to refrain from starting a new thread for each one. Going to use the search function for a while.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I’ve got a million questions but I’m trying to refrain from starting a new thread for each one. Going to use the search function for a while.

It's probably better to post your questions separately in the correct help forum. I t makes thing a bit more organized and searchable if another member has the same problem.

I did move this post to the 4wd suspension forum because it was originally posted in a non help forum that was created for your trucks build thread.

Carry on... enjoy the massive amount of info and technical help the membership offers.

Don't forget to look through the Tech Library. It has a world of helpful information.

 

[JJMaine]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[JJMaine]

So after dropping the front of the truck with the torsion bar bolts and an alignment it drives much better but still has a small amount of bump steer. Mainly when you hitting a bump going around a corner but it still happens to a lesser extent when going straight down the road. It is def. drivable for the time being but I would like to get to the bottom of it.

I wonder if the amount of lift requires longer front shocks? The previous owner put Rancho’s on it but obviously did NOT have it set up correctly. I see it has Rancho Rs5229 front shocks abd basically all I know is that from the ground to the top of the fender arch is 37”. Are these the correct length shocks?

RS5000 18.375 in. Extended, 13.938 in. Collapsed, 4.437 in. Stroke, Use To Depletion Then Use

Any other ideas on what I can check that would cause the bump steer? Thanks!