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adsm08

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It is unlikely that the distributor is causing the problem. These aren't like vacuum advance units where they can sort of work. The electronic distributors in the 2.9, in my extensive experience, either work or they don't. There is rarely any middle ground.

I don't much like the numbers on that SPOUT line. Have you load tested the circuit, or is that 6-7V an open circuit voltage?
 


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rusty ol ranger

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It is unlikely that the distributor is causing the problem. These aren't like vacuum advance units where they can sort of work. The electronic distributors in the 2.9, in my extensive experience, either work or they don't. There is rarely any middle ground.

I don't much like the numbers on that SPOUT line. Have you load tested the circuit, or is that 6-7V an open circuit voltage?
I always read SPOUT voltage should be half of running alternator voltage....

Not arguing but just what i read. So 6-7V should be in ballpark.

Im seriously betting on a TFI or ECM.

Have you pulled codes?
 

Bits4Bytes

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Welcome. Nice Bronco II!
Thanks.. needs some work, but I have high "hopes"
I'll give you tree fiddy for it....






2.8 or 2.9?

If 2.9:
Watch timing through rpm range with a light. See if it moves. If not, either tfi, bad wire, or capacitor on ecm border took a sh*t. Did you replace hall sensor when you put the distributor in?

Nice B2!
 
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Bits4Bytes

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It is unlikely that the distributor is causing the problem. These aren't like vacuum advance units where they can sort of work. The electronic distributors in the 2.9, in my extensive experience, either work or they don't. There is rarely any middle ground.

I don't much like the numbers on that SPOUT line. Have you load tested the circuit, or is that 6-7V an open circuit voltage?
The gas mileage and performance sucked just before the old distributor failed completely. It wasn' until after I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one from Napa that I tried to set the timing, That's when I became aware of the problem with the spout connector NOT affecting the timing... timing remains where I set it, with or without the spout plugged in or removed. Timing doesn't advance at all as RPM increases either.(I think this has been the problem since I started driving it a couple of weeks ago. (I'm in the middle of doing the top end on my 4.0L G Cherokee... I'm stuck driving the B2 until I get my jeep running again). Does anyone know what the voltage should be on the "hot" side of the spout? Between the Jeep, Bronco, Work, Life... I don't have much time to work on the B2 but I really need to figure this out... 5 or 6 miles per gallon is killing me. I'll post, check posts as often as I can. Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.
 

Nez'sRanger

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The gas mileage and performance sucked just before the old distributor failed completely. It wasn' until after I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one from Napa that I tried to set the timing, That's when I became aware of the problem with the spout connector NOT affecting the timing... timing remains where I set it, with or without the spout plugged in or removed. Timing doesn't advance at all as RPM increases either.(I think this has been the problem since I started driving it a couple of weeks ago. (I'm in the middle of doing the top end on my 4.0L G Cherokee... I'm stuck driving the B2 until I get my jeep running again). Does anyone know what the voltage should be on the "hot" side of the spout? Between the Jeep, Bronco, Work, Life... I don't have much time to work on the B2 but I really need to figure this out... 5 or 6 miles per gallon is killing me. I'll post, check posts as often as I can. Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.
Ouch! I know the pain! I'm gonna be betting on a bad wire in your harness... Specifically the spout connector's wire. If you have a multimeter, you can check continuity between connectors on the harness. You may find an open... or a closed circuit. I just changed all the wiring in my engine bay because I messed it up lifting my engine... Anyway, I noticed when I went over my junkyard salvaged harness that the wires tend to bare themselves, especially near connectors where the plastic shrinks back. If the wires are bare on your spout, they could constantly be in contact, regardless of it being plugged in.
That's a good place to start, and if it's that "simple," it could save you hundreds of bucks in new parts!
 

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Hello and welcome to TRS!!
 

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I always read SPOUT voltage should be half of running alternator voltage....

Not arguing but just what i read. So 6-7V should be in ballpark.

Im seriously betting on a TFI or ECM.

Have you pulled codes?
Yep, pulled several codes, 12, 22, 33... the #12 is new, bought a new Idle Air Control, hopefully that solves the #12. Still have that timing problem with the spout...the spout connector has no effect on the timing, timing stays where I set it, timing does not advance with RPM. 6.7 to 7 volts at the spout. I'm using a Actron 9690 to read the codes. One of the Features with the Actron is the Computer Aided Timing function, it allows the ECM to set timing at 20% plus, or minus 3%. The Actron does it automatically when you run the computer aided timing feature... I'm suspicious that the Actron might have set a false code? Anyone familiar with the Actron and/or the Computed Aided Timing feature?
 

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Code 33 is an EGR code IIRC.

Whats 22?

Also what year is this BII? If its a 86/87 i wonder if you have a knock sensor issue? A ticking valvetrain can trick the knock sensor into retarding timing, but im not sure at that point if it would still advance a little or not with the spout.
 

Bits4Bytes

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Ouch! I know the pain! I'm gonna be betting on a bad wire in your harness... Specifically the spout connector's wire. If you have a multimeter, you can check continuity between connectors on the harness. You may find an open... or a closed circuit. I just changed all the wiring in my engine bay because I messed it up lifting my engine... Anyway, I noticed when I went over my junkyard salvaged harness that the wires tend to bare themselves, especially near connectors where the plastic shrinks back. If the wires are bare on your spout, they could constantly be in contact, regardless of it being plugged in.
That's a good place to start, and if it's that "simple," it could save you hundreds of bucks in new parts!
Thanks for the reply, the wiring is horrible... brittle, and "pulled back' like you mentioned. Especially where the wires enter the connectors. I'm slowly replacing the connectors I can with Pigtail?connectors from Napa. 'Im eventually going to replace all the connectors with the GM "Weather Pack" line of connectors. Some of the connectors in the engine compartment have been damaged by the heat from the exhaust manifolds, or they are broken and abused by age. I work for Napa at a major Distribution Center in Portland, OR so I have access to the parts I need, and I can pick the brains of my customers too... Its a nice little B2, just want to make it as reliable
Code 33 is an EGR code IIRC.

Whats 22?

Also what year is this BII? If its a 86/87 i wonder if you have a knock sensor issue? A ticking valvetrain can trick the knock sensor into retarding timing, but im not sure at that point if it would still advance a little or not with the spout.
IT'S A 1986 B2 2.9L 4WD automatic.... cODE 22= MAP SENSOR-OUT OF RANGE, that was a pinched vacuum line, fixed that one. Actually the Knock sensor suggestion is interesting... my B2 doesn't seem to have one... found the wire wire tied to the harness, but no knock sensor on the block? I've kept track of codes that have came up... couple years ago it had a code 25, knock sensor not detected... it "went away", never thought about it sense. I've had this B2 since 2014, use it to park a 27' travel trailer. thats been it's life for the most part, only started it to move the trailer around. Really got me baffled with the spout connector issue. I've loooked into replacing the ECM (computer), problem there is its got numbers on it that no one recognizes, cant order the correct one without original ford numbers on module???
 

rusty ol ranger

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Thanks for the reply, the wiring is horrible... brittle, and "pulled back' like you mentioned. Especially where the wires enter the connectors. I'm slowly replacing the connectors I can with Pigtail?connectors from Napa. 'Im eventually going to replace all the connectors with the GM "Weather Pack" line of connectors. Some of the connectors in the engine compartment have been damaged by the heat from the exhaust manifolds, or they are broken and abused by age. I work for Napa at a major Distribution Center in Portland, OR so I have access to the parts I need, and I can pick the brains of my customers too... Its a nice little B2, just want to make it as reliable


IT'S A 1986 B2 2.9L 4WD automatic.... cODE 22= MAP SENSOR-OUT OF RANGE, that was a pinched vacuum line, fixed that one. Actually the Knock sensor suggestion is interesting... my B2 doesn't seem to have one... found the wire wire tied to the harness, but no knock sensor on the block? I've kept track of codes that have came up... couple years ago it had a code 25, knock sensor not detected... it "went away", never thought about it sense. I've had this B2 since 2014, use it to park a 27' travel trailer. thats been it's life for the most part, only started it to move the trailer around. Really got me baffled with the spout connector issue. I've loooked into replacing the ECM (computer), problem there is its got numbers on it that no one recognizes, cant order the correct one without original ford numbers on module???
The only real differences are cali emission and auto/manual.

Order one with fed emissions for a 86/87 2.9 with an auto youll be fine.

OR...

A 88-92 2.9 federal emission/automatic if you want to gut the EGR and ignore the knock sensor. After 88 ford did away with those two things.

I put a 88 ECM in my 87.
 

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Ok, really starting to bother me now.... was having the same problem for several days... new distributor tested the module on both the old distributor and the new one, Every test was good. A few days ago the starter gear stuck in the flywheel and I replaced the starter. Now when I turn the key on I don't hear the fuel pump run, and NO power at the spout connector... unless I turn the distributor like I'm trying to time it. At a certain point, while turning the distributor I can suddenly hear the fuel pump run... still won't start though, the position the distributor needs to be in for me to hear the fuel pump run is nowhere near where the engine timing needs to be for the engine to run. What the heck does distributor position have to do with the dang fuel pump electrical system? really baffled now, anyone experience a problem like this?
 

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There's an impact safety switch in the passenger side floor, should be over towards the ecm. Push it down and try to start.
 

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