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New Luk clutch engagement


4x4junkie

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Read the TSB again. That procedure is for the slave cylinder, or if air is in the line downstream from the master cylinder. Now look at the master cylinder diagram on the last page that shows where air gets trapped. You aren't going to get air out of the master cylinder unless the air can exit the master cylinder through one of the two lines, which isn't going to happen with it installed. If you bled your hydraulic system by pumping the pedal it was becuase the air was somewhere else other than in the master cylinder.
Edit:
Ok, maybe we are both right? I'm not sure.
Step 3b would seem to imply that if the master is fine (pedal is hard), then continue with the rapid presses of the pedal. But if it's spongy, then do steps 4 - 7.
What I don't get is what steps 4-7 could possibly do here, as that is basically the same thing as bleeding it from the slave (ineffective at removing the air from the master).

What I do know is that the rapid stomping on the pedal does work. You cannot tell me it doesn't, because I have done it many times, even after air being sucked into the master from a leaky slave. What I (unintentionally) left off is I also very slightly crack open the bleeder so that fluid is also escaping from the system at the same time I'm stomping the pedal. I don't know if that makes a difference, but not once have I needed to de-install a clutch MC to get it properly bled.
 
Last edited:

Bill

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What I do know is that the rapid stomping on the pedal does work. You cannot tell me it doesn't, because I have done it many times, even after air being sucked into the master from a leaky slave.
The line from the master cylinder to the slave has a high spot. Or, at least mine does. Pumping fluid through the line will push out air trapped in the line through the slave cylinder and out the bleeder valve. Or maybe you don't have air in it and the problem is fluid leaking past internal seals in the master or slave. I had a master cylinder that was doing that. The pedal would firm up after pumping it. But, would be soft again at the next light.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
if you ever part a factory line. it gets air in it.


whether or not it is enough to be an issue will be readily apparent. just having it unloaded can draw in air through the slave sometimes whet it out...

all of mine the pedal is all over the place. i use several methods to bleed them, but if it feels shitty or not in a good spot and you keep using it they do tend to bleed out over time provided there is enough function. i have had them extremely hot out in moab and lost pedal and clutch that came back after it cooled.


and do other stupid stuff...


i have driven months without a releasable clutch starting it in gear.

winter in the north of course when i was younger. easier to change the starter...
 

4x4junkie

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1990
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Bronco II
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2.9L V6
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Manual
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4WD
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35x12.50R15
Or maybe you don't have air in it and the problem is fluid leaking past internal seals in the master or slave.
Yeah I've seen that happen too, and likewise, it was the master I had to replace with a new one.

Try it for yourself (next time you're doing clutch work). Again I slightly crack open the bleeder while rapidly cycling the pedal. Maybe that is what makes the difference.
 

bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Yeah I've seen that happen too, and likewise, it was the master I had to replace with a new one.

Try it for yourself (next time you're doing clutch work). Again I slightly crack open the bleeder while rapidly cycling the pedal. Maybe that is what makes the difference.

i got one of those pressure vacuum dealio critters for surging old abs systems from lack of tech 2....

and it works pretty good cycling the ford clutches as well. i made a custom cap thing and its an option.
 

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