New Luk clutch engagement

[Skooby]

My son just installed a new luk clutch kit (non self adjusting). The engagement point is right at the floor. We have the system bled for sure and it goes in and out of gear now with no grinding into reverse like it did before it was bled properly but the engagement is literally right as you lift off the floor. Ive read in some other forums that with the no self adjusting plates this is normal and the engagement point will move up as the new disc wears. Is this truly normal for this type of set up? Thanks in advance!

 

[franklin2]

It will be a radical difference in release position if you compare it to the old worn out clutch position. Drive it some and see if he gets used to it. Plus, if there happens to be a tiny bit of air left, driving it will promote that to eventually leave, and the position may get even better.

 

[bobbywalter]

hard to say. i know if it was doing that i would assume i still had air or mismatched master/slave situation.

 

[Skooby]

hard to say. i know if it was doing that i would assume i still had air or mismatched master/slave situation.

Slave and master were not changed, only the clutch parts and the flywheel was surfaced

 

[gaz]

@Skooby
I've put 3 different style clutches in the 1st gen chassis, the clutch engagement point never changed, only the pressure required to depress the pedal changed with clutch performance level:
1) OEM replacement
2) upgraded aftermarket, Centerforce
3) Zoom, tage 2 Kevlar

 

[franklin2]

@Skooby
I've put 3 different style clutches in the 1st gen chassis, the clutch engagement point never changed, only the pressure required to depress the pedal changed with clutch performance level:
1) OEM replacement
2) upgraded aftermarket, Centerforce
3) Zoom, tage 2 Kevlar

If the clutch that was in there was wore out, the engagement will change. As the disc wears the fingers in the pressure plate protrude further out of the pressure plate.

 

[Skooby]

New development. Was as I described b4 clutch felt good, air bled, going into gear no problem, low engagement point. He moved it out of the shop for the first time since the work, got out to check clearance behind the truck, left it running in N, when he got back in clutch felt spongy again like it has air and can't get it into gear. Ffs this shouldnt be that hard.

 

[franklin2]

New development. Was as I described b4 clutch felt good, air bled, going into gear no problem, low engagement point. He moved it out of the shop for the first time since the work, got out to check clearance behind the truck, left it running in N, when he got back in clutch felt spongy again like it has air and can't get it into gear. Ffs this shouldnt be that hard.

These hydraulic clutch systems can be very difficult to get the air out. I believe you have gotten most of the air out already. What works most of the time is to drive it on a bumpy road. If you can plan your route, you can warm the engine up so it runs well, and then turn it off and put it in gear. Start the engine and go. Use the clutch and shift through the gears going down the road. The clutch should eventually get better as the air migrates backwards up into the clutch master reservoir. If the clutch is not working and you have to stop, just turn the truck off. Put it in gear and when you need to go, start the engine and go. If you have a decent back road with not much traffic, it should not take long at all for it to start working the air out.

I only had to go around the block and my clutch started working.