New Ignition Key

[professor229]

Thought I would take a chance and ordered a key blank for my 2004 Ranger.... supposedly, you take this key to a good old fashioned hardware store to have it manually cut/duplicated..... and we have a fantastic old fashioned store near us.... So this afternoon I took one of the two original keys and the new blank over and as I thought, the gal said "no problem" and cut the key... Got home, inserted the original key in the door lock and locked the Ranger and then inserted the newly cut key and it opened it as it should... so the key was cut correctly... a relief.... So tomorrow I will try to program the newly cut key using the method shown in the link below.. My question... has anybody ever used this method to "program" the key? And yes, I do have two original keys.... and as the hardware store said, how does the Ranger know if you have two separate keys and why can't you just just use one key to insert, twice? Splitting hairs and since I have two keys, I will comply with the directions in the link... Just want to know if anybody has tried this method???? Thanks...

2004 Ford Ranger Ignition Transponder Chip Key Programming Instructions

How to Program a 2004 Ford Ranger Ignition Transponder Chip KeyStep by Step How to Programming Instructions: Can I program a new key myself if I

www.programautokeys.com

 

[tinman_72]

how does the Ranger know if you have two separate keys and why can't you just just use one key to insert, twice?

If there is only one key code stored in PATS, it will know there is only one key....

 

[19Walt93]

That will work as long as you have 2 programmed keys. If not a dealer can program the second one, some hardware stores will clone your current key but I'd avoid that. With a cloned key the system thinks you only have one key.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, the on board programming works almost all the time, if you do it right. It does require two individual programmed keys. Each key has a specific chip ID that is stored in the computer, if you try to use the same key twice, or an original and a clone, the computer sees them both as the same key since the chips read the same, which is why I avoid cloned keys. The other thing is, I think the computer only holds like 8 keys max, so if the memory is full up, you can’t add any more.

I have heard that Ace and some other ones can connect to the vehicle and add keys. Most locksmiths can too, and of course Ford. Forscan and some of the professional scan tools can too. I’ve used Forscan and the on-board to do keys before.

 

[professor229]

I got the key cut at the local old school hardware store.... very reputable.... very knowledgable... and the gal that cut the key knew what she was doing.... $3... got home, and tried the key in the door lock first and it worked to lock/unlock the doors so if all else fails, I can hide this key in the bed area, and at least open the doors if I lock the keys inside... Then I proceeded on the procedure.... inserted the first original key and run, then off... inserted the second key and to run, and off.... and then inserted the newly cut key... turned to run, waited one second, and then to off.... Then tried to start the Ranger... it all lit up on the dash but no starter was engaged.... so I did what anybody would do... and tried again... If you insert the new key one way, nothing happens... no dash lights etc... so turn it upside down and you get lights, but no starter... and the same results.... should I try again? What's the definition of insanity?

Did make progress on the U Joints.... Rock Auto..... two different numbers.... and found an old application for GMB u joints that Rock Auto is selling..... PDF catalog and the two numbers in the catalog are the same as Rock Auto... one is more/less OEM and the other is for high performance ..... both would work... I went with the OEM and ordered two, delivered next Monday for $21.... as far as install... my vise is not big enough... but I inherited a super sized C clamp from an estate sale that will press the old joints out and the new ones in.... so I will be doing this myself.... just like the brakes and shift lever adjustment.... My mechanic gets $100 per hour... if I do it myself... I get nothing.... but satisfaction....

Guess I should just be happy that I can still do this work!!!!

Next up... should I believe the forum/website/explanation that says to turn on and off the Ranger ignition bunch of times and then insert the new key blank? or are we back to the insanity defense on this?

Take care....

 

[RonD]

Did you order a PATS key uncut or just a "blank" Ford key?
PATS key has a chip embedded in the handle with a unique number programmed on to it, you just need to have this kind cut to match lock and can then add it as you described, IF....... you already have 2 working keys with different numbers

"Blank" Key has no number, its made that way so it can be used as a "clone", the number from one of your other working PATS keys is read and then that number is "written" on the Blank key's chip, this is done with RFID reader/writer
No programming needed because the number is already in PATS memory

Most locksmiths have RFID reader/writers so they can tell you if your new key has a number or is a "blank"
If blank they can write a number to it, different than your other 2, so it would be a unique PATS key



If you insert a non "registered" key in ignition and turn it on, you should see a THEFT light on the dash flash rapidly, this means key did NOT pass the PATS test, and engine can not be started
If you do this 3 or 4 times then PATS will LOCKDOWN the computer, and you have to wait 90min or so, before even an original key will start engine
PATS is assuming a Theft attempt is in progress

If you insert a "registered" key into ignition and turn it on, the THEFT light should come on and then go OFF, that means Key passed the test and engine can be started
If you don't see the THEFT light then bulb is burned out, in 2004 its an LED so unlikely to burn out

Flipping the new key over and having it work better means it should be recut(fine tuned), reversing key in the mill

Door lock cylinders need one or two less cuts than ignition switch cylinders, so a key can work in a door lock fine but has trouble in ignition cylinder, just FYI

 

[professor229]

Hey.... I didn't read your thorough answer until after I tried to do a few more "experiments" with all this and now I have also researched the PATS system and the theft light meanings more thoroughly as well.... And I found a way around the system too but it is hokey kind of.... and I don't think I want to deal with hokey right now. What I do know is that I don't want to give Ford or a locksmith money to solve a problem that really doesn't exist... I have two working keys.... but my intent is/was to have a third and/or fourth working key to keep in my fishing tackle box and perhaps another hidden in the box of the truck.... yes, paranoia, but you just never know..... and I have this kind of setup on my 1995 Chevy which has no high tech anything... simply I have four keys for it, two of them hidden.

The system I used to program the keys on my 2004 Ford Ranger were outlined on several videos and were pretty straight forward... but I don't ALWAYS get the same results... For example, sometimes I do the first original key, second original key, insert the new blank key method, and pull out the new key wait five seconds and put it back in and try it.... sometimes, this method gives me nothing.... no starter motor etc... other times, I get the starter motor to turn and there is hope? but no ignition...... This has been the case several times and I keep on trying; a definition of insanity fits here....

So, more research and will go out and try to look at the theft light some more to make sure I am informed as to what it should be telling me by the way it reacts....

I also ran across this.... a way to bypass the entire system kind of, although it is hokey.....

The procedure to permanently bypass the PATS system is fairly simple:

1. Disassemble the ignition key grip to get to the RFID chip.
2. Carefully remove the chip from its housing, then reassemble the key.
3. Use a piece of tape to temporarily secure the RFID chip close to the ignition lock.
4. Insert the key and try starting the vehicle. If the engine doesn’t start, reposition the chip and try again.
5. Once you’re able to reliably start the engine, superglue the chip or use other means to properly secure it.
6. Now you’ll be able to start the car with any copy of the key!

Assuming I get the two newly cut Ebay keys to program enough to turn the starter motor, which has happened a couple of times, then this method should work..... However..... why do I have to remove the RFID chip from one of the original keys and tape it or glue it close to the ignition? Why can't I just tape one of the original keys near the ignition area of the steering column instead of removing the chip? and then use one of my newly cut non-working keys to spin the starter motor???? Wouldn't that work?

Which then raises one question.... where exactly is the RFID receiver located in the steering column? I would need to position/tape an original key at that location..... IE above or below the ignition switch? front of the ignition switch or behind it? I am considering this just to try... just to satisfy my curiosity.....

PS... There is a video of a guy taking apart the Ford key he found in a junkyard to show what the chip looks like inside the key handle... interesting....

I think I have enough information now.... but yesterday, I took the two original keys down to my local hardware store, and the new uncut replacement key the Ebay seller sent to me so I would not leave negative feedback, and had that key cut... brought it home and went through the two original keys then newly cut key programming procedure with the exact same results of the first failed Ebay key I got.... sometimes it will not program at all... sometimes I get it done and the starter turns but there is a no start situation..... and that is where I am at today....

I would love to know/understand specifically what the exact problem is/was on this but will probably never know... In other words, are the Ebay key blanks junk? Is there a procedural issue that I am screwing up on the programming of the newly cut key? But I think to find that answer, I will/would need to bend the ear of a locksmith or Ford..... and $$$$ is not going to happen..... For now, I am satisfied with having a third and fourth key to at least open a locked door.... and will leave it at that....

If anyone reading this has a theory, I would love to hear it... I am going to wait until after Wednesday to try to tape an original key to the column after getting one of the newly cut keys to at least spin the starter..... I need this Ranger working on Wednesday for a "mission" and don't want to risk screwing up the ignition on it until Thursday....

Thanks for all the information......!!!!!!

 

[RonD]

There is no by-pass for PATS but you can use "the same key" to start engine each time, like most do daily

Around the ignition key slot is the Transceiver(transmitter/receiver), it is a powered antenna in the shape of a ring

Looks like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/BqgAAOSw28pdhbnk/s-l500.jpg

Because it's ring shaped it is directional, and works best if the RFID chip is in side the ring area

Picture here of it installed around lock cylinder housing: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attachments/8-cylinder-tech-34/207133d1501478610-photo-log-pats-installation-img_5225.jpg

You can remove the transceiver, put it under the dash and tape a working key inside it, then PATS will get a "working key" number each time system is turned on
Not a by-pass, just no longer an "anti-theft" system

Any locksmith can also CLONE a working PATS key, cuts new key to match lock, reads number off working key and puts that same number on the new key's RFID tag
You could literally have 100 CLONE keys made from a working key and each one would start the engine

PATS only sees the RFID tag number, so same number on 100 keys IS the SAME KEY as far as PATS is concerned

CLONE keys are the cheapest alternative and easiest way to have spare keys, no programming, no taping RFID chips
If you have 2 working keys then get a CLONE of each, and its still an anti-theft system if the need arises

 

[professor229]

Replacement For 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Ford Ranger Transponder Key | eBay

Programming Availability for this Product .

www.ebay.com

This is the key blank I bought and of course, they sent a second one free when this one did not work.... I have now looked at several other Ebay sites and all the feedback is "mixed" meaning some worked and some did not... I am done with this experiment now and learned a lot... but this has gone far enough now and I am content with what I have..

 

[RonD]

That looks like a "blank" key, totally "blank" not just uncut
So it has no valid RFID tag number in it, just 0000000's, its for making a CLONE key

Any locksmith, and most key cutting places, can now READ the RFID tag numbers, I would check to see if has a valid PATS number, not "blank"
Not all places can copy and write(CLONE) a PATS key, most locksmiths can

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I have to wonder if maybe one of the keys thought to be original is actually a clone or if there is something else going on. Or maybe it is just a blank clone key and that’s why it keeps getting rejected by PATS.

I have bought a number of keys for these and I’ve made sure to stick to what I know works. All of the Ford chip keys I buy that I have cut for anyone are official Ford keys so they program in just fine. They may be a little more than off brands, but I know what I’m getting. I do have a couple others I bought for my own experimenting though.

 

[RonD]

Good read here on Ford PATS keys: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/ford-chip-key-basics-or-what-blank-key-should-i-buy.178783/