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New computer needed. Which ones are compatible?


PetroleumJunkie412

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What is a microsquirt and where can you get them, are they just drop in ready, or do I need a dealership to program it?
WildBill! That is a DANGEROUS question haha

A microsquirt is a standalone ECM - means it doesnt need a vehicle to run an engine.

They come as a bag of parts and a empty board, or as a prefab unit.

No dealer will go anywhere near one. They're typically built for racing use only, but as it turns out, theyre just better than any ECM that detroit uses to this day.

I have full control of spark, fuel, idle, boost, nitrous, methanol, etc. right from my laptop. You can add and delete features like this with a mouse click. My laptop IS my scan tool, plus I can data log the engine, modify sensor readings, etc. The diagnostics are unparalleled. Had my truck shit the bed on a highway last summer. 5 minutes with my laptop, tracked it down to an internally shorted battery. Would have taken a loooong time on OBD1 to find that.

If you do go that route for cologne, I wrote the software to run 2.9 on them. Theres a thread in the tech section with all the software to download from my Google Drive, or I can just send it to you.

Theyre sort of the ultimate in EFI technology. They give you more control over the engine than any tuner, piggyback, or chip ever could, far more than any dealer ever had, and as much as the engineers designing this stuff in detroit have.

Its how I can do the crazy sh*t with mine that I do. Changing injector sizes to 24lb was three mouse clicks and four keystrokes. Adding a turbo or blower is a few dozen clicks and a few dozen keystrokes. Methanol injection based on MAP, TPS, and RPM sensor feedback was less than 5 minutes once I had it wired in. Its how I can run a GM MAP sensor, Mercedes ECT sensor, Volvo TPS sensor, wideband O2, etc., etc, etc. Just punch in the known range of readings for whatever sensors youre using, click AutoTune, and go for a 30-45 min drive. Easy as it gets.
 


wildbill23c

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WildBill! That is a DANGEROUS question haha

A microsquirt is a standalone ECM - means it doesnt need a vehicle to run an engine.

They come as a bag of parts and a empty board, or as a prefab unit.

No dealer will go anywhere near one. They're typically built for racing use only, but as it turns out, theyre just better than any ECM that detroit uses to this day.

I have full control of spark, fuel, idle, boost, nitrous, methanol, etc. right from my laptop. You can add and delete features like this with a mouse click. My laptop IS my scan tool, plus I can data log the engine, modify sensor readings, etc. The diagnostics are unparalleled. Had my truck shit the bed on a highway last summer. 5 minutes with my laptop, tracked it down to an internally shorted battery. Would have taken a loooong time on OBD1 to find that.

If you do go that route for cologne, I wrote the software to run 2.9 on them. Theres a thread in the tech section with all the software to download from my Google Drive, or I can just send it to you.

Theyre sort of the ultimate in EFI technology. They give you more control over the engine than any tuner, piggyback, or chip ever could, far more than any dealer ever had, and as much as the engineers designing this stuff in detroit have.

Its how I can do the crazy sh*t with mine that I do. Changing injector sizes to 24lb was three mouse clicks and four keystrokes. Adding a turbo or blower is a few dozen clicks and a few dozen keystrokes. Methanol injection based on MAP, TPS, and RPM sensor feedback was less than 5 minutes once I had it wired in. Its how I can run a GM MAP sensor, Mercedes ECT sensor, Volvo TPS sensor, wideband O2, etc., etc, etc. Just punch in the known range of readings for whatever sensors youre using, click AutoTune, and go for a 30-45 min drive. Easy as it gets.
Wow, that actually sounds like a much better solution than a 30+ year old ECM with a bad attitude that isn't playing well with others....a prefab board would be the way I'd go, but the programming aspect is what I'm most interested in, any idea about cost or where to get one to play around with? Once its programmed its stuck to that engine though, or can it be reprogrammed for other engines?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Wow, that actually sounds like a much better solution than a 30+ year old ECM with a bad attitude that isn't playing well with others....a prefab board would be the way I'd go, but the programming aspect is what I'm most interested in, any idea about cost or where to get one to play around with? Once its programmed its stuck to that engine though, or can it be reprogrammed for other engines?
Theyre adaptable to ANY engine, and they are not fixed to one engine or vin like the crappy type of tuners. Mine is a DIYPNP, so it even has a ford 60 or 104 pin harness that attaches to it. Just swap it to ANY VEHICLE with ANY HARNESS, upload your tune, and hit the road. My 1953 Coronet is going TBI, and I saved a good 1994 Ranger engine harness to run it off of my megasquirt. I guess Ranger parts find their way into everything eventually...

deathbypsi has a few youtube videos about it. He swears that it makes a 302 run better than a carb/EEC-IV ever did.

There are a few photos and some discussion here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/really-really-bad-forced-induction-idea.179649/post-1667889


Theres also a few places to pick one up, but we're all pretty handy with a forum...



And some info:



RonD is absolutely correct... There is a learning curve to it. deathbypsi helped me through mine, and I'm just a PM/post away :icon_thumby:


And if you're wondering about results, yes, it runs my 2.9 INFINITELY better than the EEC-IV ever did. I've run it 8+ hours from home, offroad, etc. Only trouble its ever had since is a shorted battery from Decline Auto Parts. Less issues now than when I had an EEC. Better diagnostics. More accurate spark. Self learning and self adapting fuel. NO EPA BULLSH*T UNLESS YOU PROGRAM IT IN. Does it get any better?

In fairness though, the EEC-IV is a 'good' system for 1988.

But this is 2020, so the way I saw it, it was time to toss out the abacus and replace it with a computer.

They can be a hazard to your catalytic converters, as I learned... ;brownbag;

Wish you lived closer, I'd toss you the keys for an afternoon.
 

wildbill23c

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Theyre adaptable to ANY engine, and they are not fixed to one engine or vin like the crappy type of tuners. Mine is a DIYPNP, so it even has a ford 60 or 104 pin harness that attaches to it. Just swap it to ANY VEHICLE with ANY HARNESS, upload your tune, and hit the road. My 1953 Coronet is going TBI, and I saved a good 1994 Ranger engine harness to run it off of my megasquirt. I guess Ranger parts find their way into everything eventually...

deathbypsi has a few youtube videos about it. He swears that it makes a 302 run better than a carb/EEC-IV ever did.

There are a few photos and some discussion here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/really-really-bad-forced-induction-idea.179649/post-1667889


Theres also a few places to pick one up, but we're all pretty handy with a forum...



And some info:



RonD is absolutely correct... There is a learning curve to it. deathbypsi helped me through mine, and I'm just a PM/post away :icon_thumby:


And if you're wondering about results, yes, it runs my 2.9 INFINITELY better than the EEC-IV ever did. I've run it 8+ hours from home, offroad, etc. Only trouble its ever had since is a shorted battery from Decline Auto Parts. Less issues now than when I had an EEC. Better diagnostics. More accurate spark. Self learning and self adapting fuel. NO EPA BULLSH*T UNLESS YOU PROGRAM IT IN. Does it get any better?

In fairness though, the EEC-IV is a 'good' system for 1988.

But this is 2020, so the way I saw it, it was time to toss out the abacus and replace it with a computer.

They can be a hazard to your catalytic converters, as I learned... ;brownbag;

Wish you lived closer, I'd toss you the keys for an afternoon.
Excellent information thank you for the links, I'll start reading up on this...I'd like to toss the EEC in both the Ranger and Bronco 2 really, and get something a bit easier to see what's going on as these older EEC systems start wearing down its obviously time to think about a replacement, and if there's something better I'm all for it...I like the square body trucks too much to get anything newer...not saying a new truck isn't cool, I just love the old stuff better until the electronics stop playing nice HAHA!!
 

Nez'sRanger

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Just a little heads up, the megasquirt/microsquirt isnt "technically" road legal... So you would need something to imitate the check engine light turning on when you turn key on (engine off). You didn't hear it from me, but other forums online give quite detailed instructions to do that! Haha!
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Just a little heads up, the megasquirt/microsquirt isnt "technically" road legal... So you would need something to imitate the check engine light turning on when you turn key on (engine off). You didn't hear it from me, but other forums online give quite detailed instructions to do that! Haha!
Yes. Yes they do.

Also having an inspection mechanic thats old AF and doesnt notice tends to help.

PA legal though AFAIK on something this old. I don't like to run anything illegal - Class A CDL and HazMat, so I tend to watch my P's and Q's.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
Just a little heads up, the megasquirt/microsquirt isnt "technically" road legal... So you would need something to imitate the check engine light turning on when you turn key on (engine off). You didn't hear it from me, but other forums online give quite detailed instructions to do that! Haha!
So, I can write a widget (mini program) in tuner studio that can run the mil at startup. Which would have the cel on at ignition on off cycle. Would that be 100% legal? Was going to run jumper from fuel pump relay of issue ever came up.
 

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So, I can write a widget (mini program) in tuner studio that can run the mil at startup. Which would have the cel on at ignition on off cycle. Would that be 100% legal? Was going to run jumper from fuel pump relay of issue ever came up.
Look at the first link that you posted, at the bottom of the page. I don't know if you can get around that disclaimer. Personally I think if whatever system is on the truck can meet or exceed the oem emissions targets for the year then it should be legal....but that makes too much sense for gubmint.
 

Nez'sRanger

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Look at the first link that you posted, at the bottom of the page. I don't know if you can get around that disclaimer. Personally I think if whatever system is on the truck can meet or exceed the oem emissions targets for the year then it should be legal....but that makes too much sense for gubmint.
Yep... Usually, if it makes too much sense, it doesn't happen! Haha!
 

wildbill23c

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Just a little heads up, the megasquirt/microsquirt isnt "technically" road legal... So you would need something to imitate the check engine light turning on when you turn key on (engine off). You didn't hear it from me, but other forums online give quite detailed instructions to do that! Haha!
With my Ranger there isn't a CEL anyways...the Bronco 2 does have one however where I live there aren't any inspections or smog checks...must be why everyone keeps moving here ugg.

Those who come up with these nonsense laws and regulations obviously need to be forced to drive a 30+ year old vehicle for a year, I bet they'd quickly realize how stupid their laws and regulations are after dealing with a CEL that just won't go away.

Anyhow, I understand the whining that goes on with this type of stuff, which is why I avoid doing any mods because every single one that people do to their vehicles technically is illegal in some way or another...like what state is it now that you can be ticketed for driving with your tailgate down?
 

RonD

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Minnesota has a no tailgate down law unless a load in the bed won't allow it to close, if load sticks out more than 3ft from from bumper it must be flagged, most states have the last one

Its basically to prevent debris from previous loads coming out of the bed onto the road and following vehicles
Basically a courtesy law, lol, because some people just don't care, so deserve the ticket
 

wildbill23c

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Minnesota has a no tailgate down law unless a load in the bed won't allow it to close, if load sticks out more than 3ft from from bumper it must be flagged, most states have the last one

Its basically to prevent debris from previous loads coming out of the bed onto the road and following vehicles
Basically a courtesy law, lol, because some people just don't care, so deserve the ticket
So what would they do with a truck that don't have a tailgate LOL. They need to hand those tickets out to our local transportation and road maintenance department they're the largest group of littering people I know...I have no idea why they rake up the leaves load them in a dump truck then head to the dump, by the time they get there most of the leaves are scattered along the highway.
 

Chrome Eternal

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Here's a page that shows the code numbers PetroleumJunkie412 is referring to: http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page17.html

If you scroll down you will see other 2.9l codes that have been decoded


Ford never released any cross reference for these codes, or for the suffix codes in the part number

E6TF-12A650-M2C

E6TF = 1986 small truck, E6 = 1986, E7 = 1987, ect..........F1 = 1991

12A650 = Engine computer(PCM), all Ford engine computers have this center number, Ford still uses it in 2020, so not year or model specific

Suffix
M2C = ???, its said to be a firmware number, on other Ford parts its a Revision number
Ok, I see I'm in the right place at least. I've got an 88 2.9L Ranger XLT extended cab, 4x4, m/t, and it refuses to pump fuel. After troubleshooting it all day on Sat and verifying that the fuel pump is good, the fuel relay is good, and the EEC relay is good, and bypassing the inertia switch, and confirming 38 psi fuel pressure and presence of spark at cylinders, I've arrived at the conclusion my ECM is toast. I took it apart but didn't see anything obviously wrong with it, and checked wiring to make sure grounds going to Pins 40 & 60 were good.

So my ECM is numbered E8TF-12A650-P1A, with J16 ink-stamped in upper left of label (can't tell if it's really a "J" or just part of another letter that didn't stamp right) and 8MH shown in the lower right of the label (and handwritten in Sharpie on the back). It also shows 7J154 GASKET on the upper right of label, and *623* under the bar code.

I'm looking at a used one on eBay with same 13-digit main #, but it is ink-stamped G8F09, with 8DT in lower right and 8F084 GASKET in upper right, and *766* under bar code.

Based on the info in the thread above, I need one marked 8MH, not 8DT, is that correct? The truck came out of the Midwest originally, so shouldn't be a Cali emissions version.

Does anyone know if the ink-stamp/ gasket/ bar code numbers mean anything significant?
 

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